Replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ classic model

Replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ classic model

Wheel bearings facilitate the rotation of the wheels, they account for part of the car's support, while they fix its axles and bear a high load. This part is an important element of the chassis, and if it breaks, the front wheel bearing of the VAZ classic models will need to be replaced. If this is not done in time, an unpleasant hum will appear, the vehicle's rolling will worsen, and fuel consumption will increase. If the bearing fails, the machine will be unusable.

Sign of a faulty VAZ classic wheel bearing.

A faulty bearing usually produces extraneous sounds in the form of a hum or grinding sound, and the wheel can also hang on such a bearing due to wear or due to a poorly tightened wheel nut.

To diagnose a bearing, it is enough to hang the wheels (or each separately) and rock the wheel in different directions. If there is play when rocking in all planes (wheel rotation left and right and tilt up and down), the wheel bearing may need to be replaced. But the backlash can also be due to tired silent blocks or ball bearings. To exclude a suspension malfunction, you need a second person who will check whether the wheel wobbles together with the steering knuckle or walks separately from it. If the wheel moves separately from the steering knuckle, then the wheel bearing is definitely faulty (in this case, tightening the wheel nut may briefly save the situation).

A sign of a malfunction may also be extraneous sounds when the wheel rotates (usually a hum, sometimes a grinding sound) or its uneven rotation.

You can also determine a faulty bearing by an excessively heated wheel (for example, if the front right wheel disc is much warmer than the front left one). But you can’t compare the temperature of the rear and front wheels because... They have brakes of different designs.

And so, let’s summarize everything we’ve read. The wheel bearing is replaced if:

• The wheel dangles separately from the steering knuckle.
• A hum and grinding noise is heard when the wheel rotates.
• The wheel does not spin evenly.
• The wheel rim gets very hot.

Installing new bearings

1. We clamp it in a cleat. We take a new bearing race (ring) and push it into the housing. We use a flat board, a pry bar - any strong object with a flat surface.
2. We install it exactly, relative to the plane of the hub, so that it does not become distorted and fits exactly into the seat. From above, with light blows of a hammer, drive the ring as deep as possible through the pry bar. We try to tap evenly so that it fits evenly into the groove, without distortion.

To recess it all the way, you can use an old ring, using it as a mandrel. At the same time, you need to place it relative to the new holder with a larger diameter to make it easier to pull out. In addition, there are special soft metal rings of different diameters designed for pressing bearings.

If the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107 is being replaced in the garage, but there is nothing similar at hand, then for complete pressing we use the tool that was used to remove the old races from the hub body. Also, carefully tapping along the entire perimeter of the ring, press it in until it stops.

1. For the outer bearing race, just use a block of wood. We insert it accurately into the body so that it does not warp, place a piece of wood on top and tap it with a hammer until it is completely installed in the seat. There is no need to use the old bearing ring here.
2. We generously lubricate the cages of new bearings with a special heat-resistant grease.

Litol-24 and solid oil are not suitable; they may not withstand high temperatures and become liquid and lose their lubricating properties. We apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hub housing. In the “Murzilka” for repairs they advise using Litol, but practice shows otherwise.

1. We insert the inner bearing into the race. We close it with a cuff with a locking ring. We evenly tap it on top through the spacer so that it fits into its seat without distortion.

1. We put the finished hub with the bearing on the steering knuckle axis and install the washer. We also apply lubricant before tightening the hub nut. After replacing the front wheel bearing, it is advisable to use new adjusting nuts, since the old ones will be difficult to lock.

1. Install the brake disc on the hub. Don't forget about the spacer ring (washer). We insert the guide pins through it, lubricating them with nigrol or “graphite”. We tighten them, pressing the caliper into the brake disc.

We adjust the free play of the wheel bearing, we will discuss how to do this correctly in the article: Wheel bearing play - causes of occurrence and adjustment of the wheel bearing of the VAZ 2107. We counter the nut, along its outer edges we carefully press the metal with a chisel opposite the grooves of the steering knuckle axis.

1. We collect grease into the protective cap and install it in place. We return the caliper with brake pads to the disc.

Video on how to change wheel bearings yourself:

What bearings to put

When a wheel bearing requires replacement, the question immediately arises of which part to install. Many people advise using original components. However, today the quality of parts leaves much to be desired and the issue of choice remains quite relevant.

Table: type, installation location, and size of bearings

Manufacturer's choice

When choosing a manufacturer of a wheel bearing for a VAZ “Seven”, we can recommend SKF , SNR, FAG, NTN, Koyo, INA, NSK. The companies listed have many locations around the world. These products are of high quality and meet the most stringent requirements.

Among the domestic manufacturers that supply bearings for cars of the Togliatti plant, we can highlight:

• CJSC "LADA Image" - manufactures and sells original Lada wheel bearings through secondary markets;
• Saratov plant - produces parts under the SPZ brand;
• Volzhsky Plant - uses the Volzhsky Standard brand;
• Vologda plant - sells products under the VBF brand;
• Samara plant SPZ-9.

Wheel Bearing Adjustment

The main parameter when carrying out a replacement is setting the correct hub clearance. The procedure is performed in two ways: using a dial indicator or by touch.

1. Prepare an indicator stand.
2. Place the device on the brake disc and secure with bolts.
3. Place the end of the indicator against the end of the trunnion, as shown in the figure.
4. Rotate the hub to measure the play.
5. If the value is more than 0.15 mm, it is necessary to loosen the nut and tighten it with a torque of 9.6 N*m. Spin the disk several times. Loosen the nut (approximately 20-25 degrees), tighten with a torque of 6.8 N*m.
6. Check the backlash value.
7. Lock the nut.

Setting the gap without an indicator:

1. Put on the wheel.
2. Evenly tighten the nut while rotating the hub.

1. Rock the wheel in a vertical plane to “feel” for play. To do this, place your finger on the end of the trunnion. A barely noticeable gap should be felt when the wheel rocks.

1. If the play is caught, tighten the nut to a torque of 19.6 N*m. Don't counter.

1. Rotate the assembly several times in both directions (to self-install the bearing). Check the gap.
2. Lock the nut.

The rebuilt unit should rotate easily, without wedging.

Front wheel bearing for VAZ-2107

After removing the consumable, it is necessary to inspect and, if necessary, repair the bearings. To do this, do the following:

1. It is necessary to remove the bearings for inspection and lubrication. To do this, it is worth fixing the hub with a vice.
2. Perform gentle blows on the outer part of the bearing race to knock it out of the hub without damaging it.
3. Remove the oil seal by prying it with a screwdriver. Underneath there is a spacer sleeve that also needs to be pulled out.
4. Using careful movements, knock out the inner bearing.

How to replace and adjust

Because bearings wear out over time, they must be replaced. When disassembling, you need to take them out and carefully inspect them.

To do this, you need to clean the bearings and hub from old grease and contaminants. They are first wiped with a rag, then washed with kerosene. After these parts are completely cleaned, they need to be inspected.

At the same time, check the degree of wear and the presence of mechanical damage. If necessary, they replace the wheel bearings on the VAZ-2107. The new ones will also have to be lubricated and installed in place - in the hub. After this, the wheel is assembled and installed.

If the parts are suitable for further use, they are installed in place after cleaning and lubrication.

Sequencing

1. The car is jacked up, and the wheel is removed using socket wrenches, behind which there is a worn bearing.
2. The brake disc and pads are removed.
3. Now you need to unscrew the axle shaft itself with a 17 socket wrench.

The axle shaft is unscrewed with a 17 socket wrench

To remove it from its seat, you can use a crank. It should be inserted between the brake cylinder and the rear of the axle and used as a lever to push the axle out.

Pushing out the axle shaft using a crank

Now you need to remove the bearing from the axle shaft. Often it turns out to be tightly welded to it, so you have to literally cut it off with a grinder. This must be done by first clamping the axle shaft in a vice.

The old bearing is cut off with a grinder

Once the old bearing is removed, the axle must be thoroughly wiped with a rag. And then a new part and a retaining ring are put on the axle shaft.

Installing a new axle bearing

Now, using a medium-sized flat-head screwdriver, you need to remove the worn oil seal from the seat.

The old oil seal is removed with a screwdriver

• As soon as it is removed, a new oil seal is installed in its place (it is most convenient to drive it into the seat with a 32 socket head).
• The axle shaft with a new bearing is installed back into the seat and the entire assembly is reassembled.

Video: How to change it yourself

Repair of VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107 hub

Maintenance-free front hubs on VAZ 2107 (bushing drawing)

This time we will talk about maintenance-free front hub bearings. Having changed 3 bearings over the winter (sometimes they didn’t last, sometimes they overtightened them, sometimes they fell apart during maintenance), I got tired of all this, surfing the Internet and DRIVE came across articles about maintenance-free bearings on the front. There are several options: 1. Buy a ready-made kit. There are people who sharpen hubs and axles for them. 2. hub with axle from Izh od (also suitable) - I couldn’t find it 3. Rear hub from 08 VAZ + bearing also rear and + adapter sleeve - that’s what you need and in terms of cost.

Replacing the wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107

The chassis of the VAZ 2107, like all classic models, is not distinguished by its design complexity, but at the same time it fully complies with the somewhat inflated endurance requirements that road surfaces impose on us. The 7 has a reliable and simple wishbone suspension, but it does not last forever, and can remind you of itself from time to time with tapping and creaking.

Content:

Signs of a worn out bearing

We immediately pay attention to the knocking of the suspension and play in the steering, and try to find and neutralize the tired part as soon as possible. The front wheel bearing behaves completely differently. As a result of wear and tear, it does not immediately show its fatigue, but gradually. When turning right, the left wheel bearing begins to hum, and when turning left, vice versa.

It is quite possible that the bearing adjustment nut has become loose, but then the hum should be accompanied by a knocking sound. This can be easily determined by checking the play on the front wheel. To do this, hang the car on a jack and grab the wheel by the lower part and the upper part with your hands, then rock it. If there is play, then it will be enough to tighten the adjusting nut with a torque of 2 kg/cm and tighten it with a blunt chisel. If the hum continues after this, it means the bearing has worn out and needs to be replaced.

Removing the front hub of a VAZ 2107

Before starting work, place the car on a level surface, secure the rear wheels with wheel chocks and tighten the handbrake. After this, we jack up the front wheel with a jack, but it is advisable to place a stand under the lower arm after we remove the wheel. We loosen the jack, the bulk of the car falls on the stand, and now the car is securely fixed.

1. Using a blunt chisel or screwdriver, remove the hub protective cap.
2. Remove the front brake caliper. To do this you will need to remove the brake pads. We unpin the pad pin, take it out, and then you can use a pry bar or a large screwdriver to press the pistons into the caliper. After this, you can remove the brake pads.

   

3. The front brake caliper is attached to the axle with two bolts that need to be unscrewed. In order not to disconnect the caliper from the brake system, we hang it on a wire so that the brake hose is not stretched.

   

4. Let's move on to the hub. Using a 27mm socket, unscrew the hub adjustment and fastening nut. To avoid any surprises, let us remind you that the right wheel has a left-hand thread, and the left one has a right-hand thread. It's hard to confuse. Having oriented towards the cardinal points, unscrew the nut.
5. Remove the hub from the axle and place it on a horizontal surface.

   

Installing new bearings

1. We clamp it in a cleat. We take a new bearing race (ring) and push it into the housing. We use a flat board, a pry bar - any strong object with a flat surface.
2. We install it exactly, relative to the plane of the hub, so that it does not become distorted and fits exactly into the seat. From above, with light blows of a hammer, drive the ring as deep as possible through the pry bar. We try to tap evenly so that it fits evenly into the groove, without distortion.

To recess it all the way, you can use an old ring, using it as a mandrel. At the same time, you need to place it relative to the new holder with a larger diameter to make it easier to pull out. In addition, there are special soft metal rings of different diameters designed for pressing bearings.

If the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2107 is being replaced in the garage, but there is nothing similar at hand, then for complete pressing we use the tool that was used to remove the old races from the hub body. Also, carefully tapping along the entire perimeter of the ring, press it in until it stops.

1. For the outer bearing race, just use a block of wood. We insert it accurately into the body so that it does not warp, place a piece of wood on top and tap it with a hammer until it is completely installed in the seat. There is no need to use the old bearing ring here.
2. We generously lubricate the cages of new bearings with a special heat-resistant grease.

Litol-24 and solid oil are not suitable; they may not withstand high temperatures and become liquid and lose their lubricating properties. We apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hub housing. In the “Murzilka” for repairs they advise using Litol, but practice shows otherwise.

1. We insert the inner bearing into the race. We close it with a cuff with a locking ring. We evenly tap it on top through the spacer so that it fits into its seat without distortion.

1. We put the finished hub with the bearing on the steering knuckle axis and install the washer. We also apply lubricant before tightening the hub nut. After replacing the front wheel bearing, it is advisable to use new adjusting nuts, since the old ones will be difficult to lock.

1. Install the brake disc on the hub. Don't forget about the spacer ring (washer). We insert the guide pins through it, lubricating them with nigrol or “graphite”. We tighten them, pressing the caliper into the brake disc.

We adjust the free play of the wheel bearing, we will discuss how to do this correctly in the article: Wheel bearing play - causes of occurrence and adjustment of the wheel bearing of the VAZ 2107. We counter the nut, along its outer edges we carefully press the metal with a chisel opposite the grooves of the steering knuckle axis.

1. We collect grease into the protective cap and install it in place. We return the caliper with brake pads to the disc.

Video on how to change wheel bearings yourself:

Instructions for replacing the wheel bearing on a VAZ-2107 with your own hands

Removal

Put the car on the handbrake. Place a shoe under the wheel to prevent the machine from rolling away. Loosen the front wheel nuts.

Raise the car and place a support under the body. Remove the wheel. Unscrew the caliper mounting bolts located on the inside and remove the caliper. To avoid damaging the brake hose, it is better to tie up the caliper.

Using a screwdriver, pry up and remove the hub cap. Unscrew the hub nut. After removing the nut and washer, pull out the outer separator. Pull the brake disc towards you and remove it together with the hub. After unscrewing the two guide pins, remove the brake disc from the hub.

Using a screwdriver, pull out the oil seal and separator, and then the spacer ring. Now you need to knock out the clips. Using a mandrel of the required diameter or a drift, knock out both clips with a hammer.

Installation

Before assembly, wash all components with any grease-cleaning liquid. Remove the races from the new bearings and, holding them in a vice, press them into place through spacers (it is best to use the old race as a mandrel).

Lubricate the inner bearing cage and install it in place. Insert the spacer ring, press the oil seal through the spacer, being careful not to damage it. We put on and secure the brake disc with studs.

We install the unit in place. Having pre-lubricated, insert the outer bearing separator into place and, having installed the washer, tighten the nut until it stops. We put on the wheel. We turn it several times to ensure complete seating. Then slowly unscrew the nut until a small amount of play appears. Lock the nut in this position.

We clean the hub cap of old grease, fill it with new one and install it in place.

Having examined how the wheel bearing is replaced on a VAZ-2107, we can conclude that this repair is not so complicated. And if desired, almost every car enthusiast can do this.

Timely maintenance and the use of high-quality spare parts will extend the life of your car. It is important not to forget that the serviceability of the car’s front suspension is a guarantee of your safety.

Elements protecting hinges on front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles

The boot is a hinge protection element on front-wheel drive Zhiguli cars, made of special corrugated rubber. It is installed on the internal and external drive joints and protects them from external factors. It also holds the lubricant necessary for operation inside the joint.

Power Torque: Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Basic concepts on how to replace a defective front wheel bearing. The list of main transitions will allow you to independently carry out this operation.

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How to independently replace CV joint boots on a VAZ 2109.

The CV joint boots are a front-wheel drive unit, which is popularly called a “grenade”. The reasons that lead to their damage can be different: aging of the material, hitting an obstacle, as well as careless operation of the car.

Checking status

I think there is no point in talking about what a bearing is and what it consists of. Despite its rather modest size and simple design, it remains an extremely important element in the hub and entire chassis of the vehicle.

You can check the current condition of the hub bearing or wheel bearing with your own hands. Moreover, this procedure is carried out in the same way for many cars, including:

• VAZ 2107;
• Daewoo Lanos;
• Renault Logan;
• Toyota Carina;
• Niva Chevrolet;
• VAZ 2110;
• Samand (Iranian car);
• SsangYong Kyron;
• Gazelle;
• Opel Cadet;
• Niva 21214;
• UAZ Patriot;
• Renault Duster, etc.

But first, the driver must have a reason to check the element. The primary sign of possible problems is considered to be extraneous noise in the area of ​​the front wheel.

If there are certain suspicions, and the noise indirectly confirms your theory, a mandatory check is required.

Moreover, self-diagnosis does not involve any particularly complex manipulations. This is easier than dealing with the knocking of valves on a hot engine, but at the same time more difficult than pumping the shock absorbers yourself.

Noises are produced by already worn bearings, to check which you should perform a few simple manipulations:

• Place the machine on a flat, horizontal surface;
• Secure the wheels using anti-roll bars;
• Put the car on the handbrake;
• Using a jack, lift the front wheel;
• Install additional supports under the car to transfer the main weight;
• Firmly grasp the hanging wheel;
• In a horizontal plane, swinging toward and away from you, move the wheel;
• If the bearing is in good condition, there will be no extraneous noise;
• If the wheel bearing is in good working order, there should be no play;
• Then remove the handbrake and simply spin the wheel.

During checks, no noises, creaks or knocks should occur. Otherwise, we are dealing with problematic and probably worn bearings.