Possible problems
Of all the reasons why a jack (diamond-shaped, rolling or bottle) may not function, 3 key situations should be distinguished: a malfunction of the rod, a clogged system or failure of the valves. Let's look at each point in more detail.
System clogged
It can be caused by the penetration of dirt, dust or air into the oil. When air enters, the supporting rod of the jack may stop rising, begin to spring intensely, or completely sit down under the load.
Accumulated lumps of dirt can inhibit the movement of valves, which will no longer seal the channels hermetically, allowing oil to pass in both directions.
In this situation, the emphasis will not be held in one position, gradually descending to the starting point.
Ball valve malfunction
In addition to blockages, mechanical defects may occur . The ball valve at the tip of the spring, resting against the cone-shaped groove, can separate or get caught on other components of the system. Then the rod will not come out at all, since the oil circulation in the system is disrupted, and pumping does not occur. This malfunction is more complicated and requires disassembling the jack. If there are signs of wear on the ball valves, they must be replaced.
A bent rod may be a consequence of failure to comply with storage or maintenance conditions and may result from working with heavy loads and as a result of non-compliance with the rules of use. In the first episode, the piston may become covered with rust, which will weaken the tightness of its connection to the surface of the cylinder, as a result of which oil will leak. If you lift loads higher than the permitted limit, the rod may bend. The possibility of such a malfunction increases with the maximum extension of the screw and the jack installed crookedly on the ground. A bent rod is a very serious malfunction that can rarely be corrected even by specialized services.
Instructions for proper bleeding of the jack device
Among the advantages of jacks, there is a rigid structure, as well as the height of lifting the load from the ground, the highest load capacity with smooth operation, and the minimum pick-up height. All these advantages result in high efficiency.
The reasons for equipment failure can be any. For example, prolonged use of the device can cause air to accumulate in the form of bubbles. This reduces the efficiency of using the jack, that is, its effectiveness drops sharply. This occurs due to air entering the hydraulic mechanism due to a lack of hydraulic fluid.
Bleeding and troubleshooting methods for the jack
The following actions will allow you to bring the device to its original state:
- Bleeding should begin if the bypass valve with the oil tank plug is open.
- The pump of the device is pumped a certain number of times, which will displace all accumulated air from the working cavity into a special container for liquid.
- Close the opening of the oil tank and the bypass valve.
If all work is carried out correctly and air is removed, the device should operate in good condition.
Otherwise, the above steps, according to the instructions, are repeated.
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How to properly bleed a jack using a different algorithm
It is recommended to replace corroded parts.
Since the above method of bleeding the jack is not the only one, you can perform the following steps step by step:
- When lifting the load slowly with a jack or if it is completely malfunctioning, the presence of air in the cavity of the device is determined.
- The locking needle should not be unscrewed by 1.5-2 turns, and the jack plunger should be raised by the screw to the top point, which is the extreme one, and then it should be lowered again to return to the bottom position.
The last operation is repeated 2-3 times. To prevent this problem from occurring, you should periodically check the fluid level in the jack. If it is not enough, then the oil must be added.
Bleeding the jack is repeated even after contaminants enter the working cavity. To remove contamination, the head of the housing is unscrewed, then kerosene is poured into its base. Next, the jack is pumped, having previously unloaded the shut-off needle. Having completed the operation, the kerosene is removed, and the working cavity is filled with clean hydraulic fluid.
In general, the algorithm looks like this:
- Oil is poured in, then the box is closed.
- The piston should be pumped by lifting it to failure.
- The plug is unscrewed and pressed onto the piston, releasing air from the cylinder.
- Add oil, closing the plug, etc.
This is done until all the air is released and the hydraulic oil is released in accordance with the bleeding of the brakes.
What to do?
Doesn't hold under load
The lowering of the rod when it rests on the lifted load and sometimes without much pressure happens for 2 reasons: lack of oil or failure of the valves. Let's consider each option separately.
The lack of oil is due to normal leakage due to poor sealing; the jack bypasses oil. As a rule, this is the result of prolonged storage of the jack with the shut-off valve turned off or the wear of the gaskets. The issue can be resolved by adding oil and bleeding the device. It is advisable to use specialized oils for hydraulic systems; at worst, ordinary technical oils will do. If after filling the oil leaks even with the tap tightly closed, you need to buy a repair kit and change all the seals.
Valve failure may be due to contamination of the system or a mechanical defect. There is no need to disassemble the lifting device right away.
It would be wiser to first rinse the channels and internal surfaces that are dirty. For this purpose, drain all the oil from the device and add flushing liquid (gasoline or kerosene will do). It is pumped several times, the used liquid is drained, clean liquid is poured in, and so on 2 more times.
If washing has no effect, you will need to disassemble the jack and inspect the valves. They may not fit tightly due to loose springs or have deformed or worn out balls. The first reason is the most likely and can be corrected by rotating the spring or adding a small washer under it to increase the pressure by reducing the distance to the valve. A worn or deformed ball needs to be replaced.
Doesn't lift well
One of the most common problems is reducing the piston stroke speed to a minimum or idling too much. This malfunction is often associated with a reduction in lift height and a decrease in the maximum load. The main reason for such a problem lies in the airing of the system, which occurs as a result of a decrease in the oil level. Restoring the hydraulic jack to functionality in such a situation is quite simple. To do this, you will need 150-300 milligrams of oil and flushing liquid (if the device is older than 2 years).
First, the shut-off valve is loosened one turn from the tightened position. Then the pump rod is lowered, the stop is all the way to the end.
The plug on the fill hole is unscrewed or removed (if it is made of rubber), and the used oil is drained. When the device is many years old, it is possible that its channels and the surface inside are clogged with dirt, which can be an equally significant reason why the jack does not lift well. It needs to be washed, it wouldn't hurt to wash it several times.
Main malfunctions and their causes
Among all the reasons why a hydraulic rolling jack, bottle jack or diamond jack does not work, there are 3 main options: system clogging, valve failure or rod damage. It is on these 3 pillars that the most common breakdowns associated with a decrease in efficiency or complete failure of the system are based. For greater clarity, let's look at each case in more detail.
System clogged
may be caused by air, dust or dirt entering the liquid. As a result of the first option, the jack stop may not rise, spring strongly, or even fall completely under load. Accumulated lumps of dirt can limit the movement of the valves, which will no longer tightly close the channels, allowing fluid to pass in both directions. In this case, the stop will not be fixed in one position, gradually lowering to the zero point. When determining why a hydraulic jack does not hold, you should first pay attention to the cleanliness of the system.
Valve failure
, in addition to mud clogging, can be caused by mechanical damage. The ball at the end of the spring, resting in a cone-shaped groove, can become detached or get caught on other structural elements. In this case, the rod will not rise at all, since the circulation of liquid in the system is disrupted and pumping is not performed. This breakdown is more complex and requires disassembling the device. It is not recommended to consider it before checking the system for blockages.
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Rod damage
may occur due to non-compliance with maintenance or storage conditions, as well as from working with large loads and violating operating rules. In the first case, the piston may become corroded, which will reduce the tightness of its seal to the cylinder, resulting in liquid leakage. If you lift loads that are heavier than the permissible limit, the stop may bend. The chances of such a breakdown increase with the maximum extension of the screw and uneven installation of the jack on the ground. Rod deformation is considered the most serious failure, which cannot always be repaired even in special centers.
Having covered the main causes of malfunctions, let’s move on to specifics. We will analyze the main problems and offer solutions.
Doesn't hold under load
The descent of the rod when resting on the load and even without strong pressure can be caused by two reasons: lack of oil or faulty valves. To find out for sure why a hydraulic rolling jack lowers, it is better to go from simple to complex. We will analyze each option separately, according to the degree of complexity of the repair procedure.
- The lack of oil is associated with banal leakage in the absence of sealing. It may be a consequence of long-term storage of the tool with the shut-off valve unscrewed or wear of the gaskets. The problem is solved by adding fluid and pumping the jack. It is better to use special hydraulic oil, but simple industrial oil will do just fine. If after filling the liquid leaks out, even with the valve tightly closed, it is worth purchasing a repair kit and replacing all the gaskets.
- Valve failure can be caused by system clogging or mechanical damage. If the rolling hydraulic jack does not hold, it is not necessary to disassemble it immediately. It would be more rational to first rinse the internal channels, which may be clogged with dirt. To do this, drain all the oil from the system and fill it with flushing liquid (you can use kerosene or gasoline). We pump several times, drain and repeat the procedure a couple more times using clean liquid.
If flushing does not produce results, you will have to disassemble the body and inspect the valves. They may not fit well due to loose springs or have worn balls. The first option is more likely and can be corrected by replacing the spring or placing a small washer under it to increase the pressure force by reducing the distance to the bolt. A worn or chipped ball requires replacement. You can find these in rem. kits sold in car dealerships or remove from a suitable bearing.
Doesn't lift well
One of the common troubles that arise in the operation of hydraulic jacks is the reduction in the speed of extension of the rod to a minimum or even to zero. This breakdown is often associated with a decrease in lifting height and a decrease in maximum load. The main reason for this malfunction lies in the airiness of the system, which occurred as a result of a drop in the oil level. In this case, restoring the efficiency of the device is not difficult. To do this, you will need a little oil (150-300 ml) and washing liquid (if the instrument is more than 2 years old).
- First, unscrew the shut-off valve 1 turn from the tightened position. Then lower the pump piston and stop to the zero point.
- Unscrew or remove (if rubber) the plug on the filler hole and drain the old oil into any container.
- If the device is several years old, it is likely that its internal channels could be clogged with dirt, which may be an equally good reason why the hydraulic jack does not lift well. It is recommended to rinse the device, preferably several times. For this, you can use kerosene or gasoline. Simply pour the liquid through the hole from where the oil was poured, close the valve, raise the stop by pumping up the pump, open the valve, lower the stop and repeat the process 2 times. Then we drain the loaded liquid, fill a new portion with clean liquid and perform the above steps at least 1 time (look at the cleanliness of the drained composition).
- When you are confident that the system is clean, you can fill it with oil. Almost all types can be used here, except brake fluid. The main thing is that the consistency is not too thick. It is advisable to use special hydraulic or synthetic industrial ones.
- Before adding oil, lower the pump piston and stop to the zero position and tighten the valve. If the jack is a bottle jack, then during filling it should be installed in a vertical, working position (the rolling jack is filled in a horizontal position).
- The most convenient way to fill the jack is through a syringe, smoothly pouring in the liquid mixture until it fills the entire volume of the reservoir and begins to flow out of the hole.
- Upon completion of refueling, it is necessary to bleed the system, expelling excess air from it. To do this, with the filler hole open, pump the oil from the reservoir into the cylinder. When the stop reaches its maximum height, unscrew the shut-off valve and lower it. We carry out the procedure 2-3 times.
- There is another pumping method, without using a pump, if the previous one did not produce results. You should unscrew the shut-off valve 1-2 turns, then pull out and plunge the rod into the cylinder by hand, each time reducing the lifting height by 1 cm until you reach the zero mark.
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The sequence of these simple steps will take no more than 20 minutes, and will most likely restore the efficiency of your lift.
Doesn't go down
A less common problem, but still relevant for many, is the stop sticking in the extended position. If the hydraulic jack rod has risen and does not fall, you can consider 2 options: a clogged shut-off valve or a deformed rod. The latter can be caused by mechanical damage (bending) from lifting loads exceeding the permissible weight. In this case, the only option is to replace the part if you are lucky enough to find one.
In addition to deformation, corrosion can form on the rod and internal walls of the cylinder due to long-term storage in improper conditions (with the rod extended, the valve unscrewed, in a humid environment). A tool with such a problem can be seen immediately by the abundant amount of rust. Restoration is possible by complete disassembly and rust removal.
If the hydraulic jack does not lower, but the rod rotates freely in a circle, then the problem lies in the shut-off valve. Most likely, while filling the oil, a small foreign object got into the jack. During pumping, it ended up in the cylinder, and when the rod was lowered, under pressure, it clogged the valve channel. The simplest, but not the most correct option is to unscrew the valve completely, expanding the channel as much as possible. If the operation is successful, some of the oil will flow out, but the rod will lower. If this does not help, the jack must be disassembled to get to the base of the cylinder and clear the blockage.
Recommendations
To increase the service life of the jack, it is advisable to follow the following rules.
- The lifting device oil must be changed twice a year. If the hydraulic jack is used every day, then it must be replaced at least once a month and must be washed.
- Any replacement oil can be used . But for the winter season, it is advisable to fill exclusively with synthetic types of oils.
- To prevent the lubricant from thickening in winter, the jack should be kept in a dry and warm room.
- When lifting work is carried out in winter, it must be remembered that if the device is used for a long time in severe frost, it can become unusable. In this regard, it is recommended to work with it in the most extreme cases and for a short time.
The ideal “repair” of a lifting device is preventative work to prevent breakdowns, in other words, continuous maintenance and timely replacement of the working fluid with pumping. Since eliminating any malfunction will require spending personal time, and sometimes some money. In this regard, it is necessary to follow all instructions for using hydraulic lifting devices, in which case they will work for quite a long time.
For repairs to a hydraulic jack, see below.
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The hydraulic jack has stopped lifting and does not hold under load.
Reading time: 5 minutes
There are many types of lifting mechanisms, the most common among car enthusiasts is the hydraulic type of jacks (bottle, rolling). If improperly maintained, jacks can fail, for example, they stop lifting loads. And the question immediately arises of what to do if the hydraulic jack does not lift. You don’t have to buy a new one right away; there is always a way out; often everything can be fixed by performing maintenance on the unit.
DIY jack repair
It is difficult to find a replacement hydraulic jack for the purpose of lifting and holding equipment. There are various signs that indicate equipment failure. For example, lifting a load is difficult, and the level of lifting height can be significantly reduced.
It is possible that a large number of moves must be made to install the device at the required height. If the hydraulic jack does not go down, this is a clear sign that it is broken. Knowing some breakdowns will help you decide on the choice of pumping method. This includes:
- The presence of rust inside the device, which limits the process of lowering the mechanism to the required position.
- Excessive load experienced by the device, which leads to bending of the rod.
After disassembling the unit, you will notice that the device has a cylinder containing a piston or rod that moves inside it in the presence of working oil. Pressure on the fluid is created during the operation of the cylinder valve. There is a pump that directs the liquid into the cylinder.
The device lowers the load at a speed controlled by the presence of an opening. It is necessary for the incoming liquid to flow out of the cylinder. The jack has threads on the rods, bodies and bases.
Activities for disassembling the jack
Jack repair diagram.
To open the unit, follow these basic steps:
- The unit is completely disassembled using keys.
- Unscrew the fastening elements.
- Remove the valve from the device, which bleeds the oil, as well as the primary piston.
- A detailed inspection of the unit is carried out to check the quality of the special valve ball and gaskets in order to replace them.
- Clean the device from excess elements and flush the system.
- After opening the unit, change the oil.
This must be spindle oil of a high grade or Total LHM+ type. Next, install other rubber bands and drain the used oil.
To completely drain, the lifting part of the device is moved down and then up. Open chambers allow the release of all piston fluid. The device's pressure spring must be removed. Next, close the valve by bleeding the oil using a shut-off ball. To accurately get the oil into the device, you need to lift the jack up and then lower it down. At the end of the work, fasteners are installed: pins and studs.
The device is equipped with two valves - fittings that open under pressure. Each of them has a spring-loaded “plug”, which is a nail with a head. Its tip should fit into a small hole, and the cap will rest against a special spring.
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The first valve is usually opened by pressure from the lever and is unscrewed to release. The oil is launched into the large “holding” cylinder after it has passed through the small “pumping” cylinder. When the pressure from the lever drops, the valve begins to hold oil while being closed. The second valve is necessary for etching into the reservoir from the large “holding” cylinder under overload conditions.
Before lifting the load, the jack is adjusted to a certain mass of the load so that it cannot burst during pumping, otherwise some parts may simply fly out of the mechanism body. Therefore, pumping the jack requires compliance with safety measures.
First, both valves are disassembled to check where the spring with the “nail” is located and whether they are in the correct position. Disassemble the device by laying down some material or newspaper. They make sure that not a single little thing can fly out of its place and get lost, since a replacement part will then be very difficult to find.
If malfunctions occur after pumping the jack, it is necessary to fill oil through one of the valves, possibly through the first one. The jack foot should be slowly raised by hand, and the fitting should be directed upward, so that when lowering, air can escape, but not completely. This may cause the rubber plug, which is shaped like a large rivet on the surface of the cylinder, to fly out.
By disassembling the second valve, it is adjusted again, taking into account the correct weight. There is no need to tighten it too much, since air deflation occurs under load. Carrying out gradual twisting, lift the load of the established weight. After this, pumping stops. Then they check the possibility of descent in case of excess weight.
Briefly about the main faults
- Stop. Occurs due to the lack of liquid in the chamber or the presence of contaminants in the oil.
- Insufficient lift height. Occurs due to a limited amount of working fluid.
- Slow rise, jerks. Explained by the presence of air, as well as a possible leak in the hydraulic system.
- Reduced pressure. The valve needs to be diagnosed or replaced. In this case, the jack also stops holding, lifting completely, springing, and can lower the load on its own.
Most often on forums you can find complaints that the hydraulic jack does not lift.
How does a hydraulic jack work?
To accurately determine the cause of the breakdown and its subsequent elimination, you should have a clear understanding of the operating principle of the device. Fortunately, hydraulic jacks are quite simple, and most of their problems can be fixed on your own. Contacting service may be necessary in cases of serious defects or a complete lack of desire to read the repair instructions. The foundations for understanding the operation of the device should be laid by analyzing the main components of its mechanism.
Before describing the functional elements, it is worth noting that hydraulic jacks have several subtypes and are divided into rolling, bottle and diamond-shaped. The classic type of liquid lifting mechanism is most closely related to the bottle type, which includes devices with a telescopic, hollow, hook-on and standard rod. To form a correct basic idea, we will analyze the original model without additional modifications. So, a hydraulic bottle jack consists of the following components:
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- Body base
. Support platform for installing the device on a flat surface. - Frame
. The outer part of the hydraulic jack and, in combination, the oil reservoir. - Plunger cylinder
. A sealed chamber where fluid pressure is created, pushing the rod out. - Working plunger
. A retractable element with a stop at the end. - Oil filling hole
. Located in the upper, side part of the device body. - Screw
. Retractable element to increase the lifting height of the jack. Screws into the plunger. - Housing head
. A threaded connection that fixes the position of the body in relation to the cylinder. - Sealing ring
. Provides sealing of the oil reservoir, preventing fluid leakage. - Screw nut
. The upper part of the housing head has six edges for easy unscrewing. - Earring
. A convenient element for manual transportation of the jack. Not available on all models. - Screw head
. The end part of the rod that rests on the load. - Lever arm
. A removable element of the hand pump that increases the impact force several times. In most cases, it includes a special groove for unscrewing the shut-off valve (more on that later). - Discharge plunger
. The main element of the pump, driven by a lever. Pumps liquid from one reservoir to another. - Pump cylinder
. Sealed chamber and intermediate link in pumping oil between tanks. - Stop valve
. Serves to integrate/isolate the oil reservoir with the plunger cylinder. - Suction valve
. Regulates the movement of fluid inside the device, allowing it to flow in only one direction (only towards suction into the pump cylinder). - Bypass valve
. The opposite of suction. Allows the pump plunger to squeeze oil out through itself, but does not let it back in.
The essence of the device's operation is based on pumping liquid from an oil reservoir into a cylinder with a plunger. When the lever is raised, a portion of oil is sucked into the pump cylinder, and when lowered, it is squeezed out into the main cylinder of the lift. Due to this, pressure is generated in the main compartment, pushing the piston out.
The main thing is that no air gets into the compartment, which can reduce stability and overall efficiency. It is for this reason that a hydraulic bottle jack does not work horizontally. However, even in this type of device there are models that allow lifting in different positions.
Design and principle of operation
The design of hydraulic jacks is approximately similar to both rolling and bottle jacks. Main parts of rolling devices:
- piston;
- lever arm;
- stock;
- suction valve;
- stop valve;
- oil reservoir;
- working cavity.
When the handle is lifted up, the shut-off valve is activated, and oil enters the chamber due to the operation of the suction valve. By pumping oil from the reservoir into the cavity of the working cylinder, the piston is raised. Next, to lower the piston with the rod, the bypass valve opens, then under the pressure of the load the piston will lower.
Design and principle of operation of a hydraulic jack
To better understand why the breakdown occurred and what caused it, you should know how a hydraulic jack works and how it works.
The design and principle of operation of a hydraulic jack.
The design of the jack is quite simple: a body made of hardened metal, a rod (or retractable piston) and a working fluid - oil. The body not only fulfills its intended purpose, but is also a full-fledged working part of the jack - it is a fluid reservoir and a guide cylinder for the rod. Depending on the model, control is carried out using a manual, air or foot driven pump.
The jack works on the principle of communicating vessels. Those. due to the fact that the pumped oil from the pump enters the cylinder, the retractable valve is squeezed out and, accordingly, the weight is raised to a height, and in order to return it to its original position and lower the load, the release valve opens and the liquid flows back. Some models of hydraulic jacks have built-in pressure gauges to monitor operating pressure.
Why won't the jack go down or up?
Reasons why the jack refuses to work:
- Cylinder failure. The working plane does not support the load; as a result, liquid flows from the cavity into the space above the piston.
- Damage to the mirror. Hydraulics lose efficiency or simply fail, this occurs due to improper transportation, it can lead to oil leakage and air entering the chamber, in which case corrosion will certainly begin over time.
- Corrosion. Leads to rapid wear of the cuffs and seals, which may result in dirt getting into the liquid and clogging the channels and valves.
- Unit fall. The greater the height from which the jack falls, the more serious the deformation of parts and main components can be.
- Too much load. Causes the rod to bend. This leads to misalignment of the main components and oil leakage.
- Use of the device for purposes other than its intended purpose, as well as failure to change the oil in a timely manner.
How to bleed a rolling Chinese jack
If the service life of the Chinese rolling jack has come to the end, that is, it can no longer hold the car, then the device can be pumped. This will allow you to avoid spending extra money on new devices. When carrying out work, safety precautions must be observed.
For this purpose, pull out two cotter pins, which serve to lock the lever axis, and remove the lever. When the oil is passed through the piston, the part is carefully pulled out so that the liquid does not hit the face. Then an inspection is carried out inside the device. If the sealing gasket has become unusable, this is due to the ingress of dirt. If there is no new gasket, you can turn the old one over.
You need to pour oil into the piston hole by gently lifting the jack with your hand. Removing the garter spring will make the whole procedure easier. Oil is added when the top point is reached. It is pushed by the piston until its movement becomes tight. If there is no boot in the jack, put it on to prevent dirt from getting into the cylinder. You can use silicone grease when bleeding. At the end, screw the blocking wire.
The rolling jack will work according to the following principle:
- The piston lever will be held tight by the blocking wire.
- The boot will be sandwiched between the lever and the cylinder.
As a result, this will help avoid contamination of the cylinder, which will increase the service life of the mechanism. Raising the device as much as possible will protect your face from getting lubricant from the cylinder.
Mlyn, jack for bleeding
if you do everything correctly, then first buy special oil for jacks (any collective farm is bad), and it has instructions for pumping
Raise the pumping handle up Close the screw (raise position) be sure to jack without load A slight but sharp blow on the pumping handle. The stroke of the handle during impact is not more than ½ HELPS.
Probably screw 3 – for draining/filling oil into the pre-pump chamber, 2 – releasing air from the post-pump chamber, where you actually pump oil by moving the handle, 1 – bypass valve between the chambers. In addition to the lack of oil, there may be a problem with the bypass, which is also indicated by the fact that you are leaking oil from under the 1st screw. Maybe the valve seat is lifted up, maybe the spring is weakened. The brother had some kind of Chinese jack, the bypass was made in the form of a spring with a plastic conical part. When he took it out, it was no longer conical. In general, he picked up a couple of balls, drove one into the valve seat, turning the seat from conical to spherical, changed the balls and all
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I’ll add. Based on the above, the bleeding method should be as follows: 1. the jack is folded, unscrew the 3rd screw, pour oil (I don’t know how much, I probably would have filled it to capacity) 2. lift a small load with the jack to the top position, loosen screw 2 and wait until it cools down oil won’t flow, tighten screw 3. fold the jack, do step 1 again and that’s it
There is often information that rolling jacks often stop holding the load after a short time. The same situation happened to me. I decided to change the stub bushings, hung the car, substituted the bars, but did not loosen the jack, as it was holding it before. After a while I looked, and the jack went down without any load. I didn't like it, but oh well. Changed the bushings. You need to put on the wheel. I start to lift the car with a jack, and it immediately lowers. That is, if you pump at a frantic pace, then somehow it still rises, but as soon as you stop, it falls. Somehow I put the wheel on and decided to disassemble the jack. Here's my handsome guy:
I scattered it. I took off the pump, removed the outer casing, took out the rod with the cuff, and then I just went nuts. What do I see on the inside of the cylinder, in which the rubber cuff goes:
You can feel them when you run your finger over them. It is clear that they are made artificially. If the jack is not raised to the maximum height, then the cuff will not reach these scratches, but this is unlikely to happen unless you check its performance in a store when selling it. And here's what happened to the cuff:
How to increase sales of jacks? Yes, it is necessary to artificially limit their service life. Not many will look for the cause of the malfunction and go buy a new one. The dear toad will strangle the borrower and take the same one in the hope that it will work for at least a year. I decided not to buy a new one, but to grind the cylinder. Don’t think that I’m a weak person, but I couldn’t unscrew this cylinder, although I made a decent effort. The gas key strips off the metal, but this garbage didn’t want to turn away.
I spat on it and decided to grind off the scratches and stuff cold welding into the recess. I polished them with a scratch pad, then welded the seams and polished them again. It turned out fine, the scratches were no longer felt to the touch
I bought a new cuff. I measured the old one and got the size 25x14x7.
Well, nothing. Small tool for a drill
and a piece of sandpaper reduced the outer diameter to almost 26 mm (then there is the edge of the side), and with a 15mm drill I ground down the inner diameter to 13.4 mm. I put everything back together and “oh, miracle!” the jack worked. True, under its own weight and with a spring, it cannot lower itself to the bottom. Maybe it will work out over time, but with a little help with your hand, everything will be fine. I raised the car to the top a couple of times and let it bleed a little to check how it held up. Holds. Let's see how long this repair will last. By the way, the purchased domestic cuff is harder than the original one, and in the store they said that it is special for hydraulics.
Troubleshooting Methods
Oil leakage is the main problem, due to which the rolling jack does not lift completely (if the leak is small) or at all (if the leak is significant). Because of this, air enters the cavity, and then the hydraulic jack works with little force or refuses to work at all. Leaks in the hydraulic system can be prevented by routine maintenance and checking the oil level. If the level is low, you just need to add fluid to the normal level.
Due to lack of fluid, air leaks into the hydraulics. This problem is solved by bleeding: you need to unscrew the cap of the oil tank and the bypass valve, and then simply pump the system, that is, move the lever up and down until the liquid passes into the main cylinder.
DIY repair
A hydraulic jack rarely breaks down seriously, most often the problem is contamination, valves or lack of fluid. All of these are easy to repair, as well as fixing the more rare problem of leaking.
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Valve failure
On a note.
If the jack is full, but still does not hold or lift the load, it is necessary to disassemble the device and check the valves.
Attention is paid to how the valves fit into the seats. If the contact is loose, check the springs, which may have weakened. The valves could be clogged, so you need to remove the dirt with a damp piece of cloth, then dry thoroughly. If the contamination is severe, for example due to oil, then rinse with gasoline or kerosene. Then dry with compressed air.
Jack diagram
If the valves are deformed, they must be replaced with new ones.
The springs are checked and if weakened, they are replaced with more elastic ones. If it is not possible to replace, then you can place a washer under them to increase density and strength.
Liquid leak
Occurs with mechanical damage and breakage of parts. It is necessary to completely disassemble the jack, simultaneously checking metal parts, for example, the piston, for corrosion. Elements, in particular the rod, are checked for deformation. Damaged parts are replaced with new ones.
It is recommended to drain all the oil and wash the jack and parts with kerosene. Old cuffs and sealing gaskets are replaced with new ones.
How to remove air or dirt
Air accumulation is inevitable during continuous operation. In the same way, dirt gets inside the working cavity.
The jack works on the principle of communicating vessels, that is, when the liquid leaves, pressure remains. But the air in the system does not escape under pressure, but is deformed and creates a cushion, which makes lifting impossible.
The air is eliminated when changing the oil. Dirt is removed with a sediment removal solution.
Disassembled jack
Fault Detection
The rod extends to the desired height, but then slowly (without load) lowers - in this case, the reason is most likely in the bypass valve and damaged o-rings, so the required pressure is not maintained.
If the rolling jack does not lift to the end, it means that the working stroke has decreased. At this point, the culprit is the corrosion that has formed on the rod and the surface of the cylinder. If the load being lifted is greater than the lifting capacity of the jack (indicated in the passport and on the body in tons), then there is a possibility of damage to the rod and its bending.
In order for the jack to serve for a long time and not break, you must remember the following rules:
- Hydraulic fluid replacement is necessary 2 times a year.
- If the lifting device is used every day, the hydraulic fluid should be changed monthly.
- In extreme cases, any hydraulic fluid can be used, but in winter it is recommended to use synthetic oils specified by the device manufacturer.
- To prevent the oil from thickening in winter, it is necessary to store the jack in a dry, warm place.
- It is not recommended to use the jack in the cold in winter, because it may simply stop working.
To fix a breakdown, you can lose a lot of time and money, so it’s easier to follow the operating instructions for a hydraulic jack, and then it will last a long time and will help lift the load more than once.
How does a hydraulic jack work?
A hydraulic jack is an easily transportable device that has maximum lifting capacity compared to other similar mechanisms. It is also distinguished among its peers by its durability.
Appearance
Operating principle
Externally, several details are visible:
- Cylinder - it contains a piston and two sections with working fluid.
- A pump that pumps liquid. It is connected to the cylinder by valves.
- Lever arm.
- Reference point.
The pump pumps liquid from the first reservoir in the front plane of the cylinder to another, which is located in the rear plane.
According to the principle of communicating vessels, increased pressure is created in the section from which the fluid was removed. It pushes the piston, and it lifts the load. The mechanism is very simple, as is the design, due to the small number of parts. It is worth considering the function of additional elements:
- The base is what the pump is mounted on. The base must have a large area to compensate for the mechanical pressure when lifting the load.
- Reserve tank - connected to the cylinder, it houses a lever system and a pump.
- The piston rises due to the flow of oil.
- Plunger - limits the height of the piston lift.
Parts of the jack
The jack is located below the object being lifted and does not require ropes, ropes, fasteners and other auxiliary parts. But it won’t be possible to hold an object suspended for a long time - the device serves solely for lifting.
How do the models differ?
The main distinguishing feature of jacks is their load capacity, pick-up and lifting height. With a focus on them, device models change. For example, the lifting height depends on the distance between the base and the support point. There are also some peculiarities in the lifting principle.
Another quality is wear resistance. Car enthusiasts for home use once a year and repair services need different mechanisms.
Important!
Before you start repairing a hydraulic jack, you need to know the model and features of its operation.
Trolley type
The entire mechanism is located on a frame, which is attached to the wheels. The compact and mobile trolley type can be used even in hard-to-reach places. The system of levers and pistons is located horizontally, making it easy to place the device under any load (for example, a car) and lift it at any angle. Additional details in the rolling model:
- 2 wheels,
- suction and discharge pump,
- lifting platform,
- frame instead of base,
- lever - you must press it to start the pump, which will transfer hydraulic oil through the valves into the cylinder.
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Trolley type
Bottle type
A simple version with a vertical cylinder. A distinctive feature is its small size with a high load capacity - from 2 to 50 tons. The pick-up height in bottle jacks usually starts from 15 cm and ends at 30 cm. The height is adjusted using a screw located in the upper base of the rod. The bottle type is designed in such a way as to prevent slipping during operation. For this purpose, the supporting part is made corrugated.
Each jack comes with a handle, which makes it easier to use the mechanism. Those units that can withstand loads of 30 tons or more have an additional second handle. By doubling the length, the weight that the bottle jack can lift increases.
Bottle type
There are other types:
- Pneumatic - a cushion is installed, connected to a source of compressed air, for example, a stationary compressor. Used when the gap between the object and the surface is small. It is also possible to use it when the support is unstable - for example, in swampy areas, sand, snow. This jack can withstand loads of up to 6 tons.
- Screw - compact, standard jack for cars. Load capacity - up to 15 tons.
- Rack and pinion – has maximum lifting height. A fastening mechanism moves along the rail, which snaps into place and rises like a ladder along with the load. Can withstand 20 tons.
Jacks differ in their drive, which can be manual or electric.
A jack handle is a mechanical lever that is used to pump fluid. Electric drive means that the mechanism has an automatic built-in pump. Repairing the electric version requires special equipment, while the bottle and rolling mechanical types can be repaired yourself.
About the club
The Ost West yacht club grew out of the sailing section of the 93rd sports club of the Baltic Fleet.
In 1985, three no longer new keel sailing yachts appeared in Kaliningrad. Two “Quarter Ton” classes and one “Half Ton” class. All hulls are wooden, built by the Tallinn Experimental Shipyard for Sports Shipbuilding. Active Navy officers at that time were appointed captains of the yachts: Bagrov I.L., Zhadobko S.M., Nechastkin O.A. Later, in 1987, two more new yachts appeared: the wooden “Quarter-tonner” “Nord” and the plastic “3/4-tonner” “Askold” (Type “Teliga-104”, Polish-built). With the beginning of perestroika in the early 90s, when more or less free navigation was opened on the World Ocean, and not just in the territorial sea of the USSR, the crews literally rushed “to the West.” “Quarter-tonners” (captains Zhadobko S.M., Gorshkov V.S., Nechastkin O.A.) actively explored the Vistula and Gdansk Lagoons - the ports of Gdansk, Eldblong, Gdynia, Krynica Morska, Hel and since then the yachtsmen of our club have exclusively supported warm and friendly relations with Polish yachtsmen in this region. These relations have never, not once over the past years, been overshadowed by political squabbles between our states.
With the advent of the Askold yacht, long-distance sports trips were made every year. The ports and yacht harbors of Poland, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Holland and Great Britain have been developed. The campaigns also had a political background: we carried the flag of a new state – Russia – to the West. At that time, the following captains served on the Askold in different years: V.S. Gorshkov, S.M. Zhadobko, I.L. Bagrov.
In the fall of 1992, officers - members of the sailing section of the Baltic Fleet Sports Club participated in the daring, in essence, and essentially unsafe, withdrawal of two yachts from the Riga Navy Yacht Club to Kaliningrad. Shutkin A.N., Korogodsky S.N., Gorshkov V.S. took part in this extreme hike. and other naval officers. Despite resistance, including from Latvian security forces, the yachts safely reached Kaliningrad. These were wooden yachts: two built by the Leningrad shipyard of the All-Russian Central Council of Trade Unions of the type “L-6”, “Arctic” and “Baltika”, as well as one “Quarter-tonner” built in Tallinn “Ushkuinik”. The yacht “Baltika” stood on the wall during the 1993 navigation until the crew was led by yacht captain S.V. Evchenko.
In 1993, a crew of Navy officers with Captain V.S. Gorshkov. on the yacht "Arctic" was invited by the heir to the English throne, Prince Charles, to the royal yacht club "Wolverstone" (Port Ipswich) to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the formation of this yacht club.