General information about the steering of VAZ 2108 / VAZ 2109 / VAZ 21099

Steering column VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The content of the article:

Installation of an adjustable steering column from a VAZ 2114 in a VAZ 2109

I was quite worried about the fact that my VAZ 2109 does not have the ability to adjust the steering wheel height. This is especially inconvenient since I have UNP anatomical seats installed. They sit a little lower than the factory ones. The issue is resolved quite easily. The younger brothers of the VAZ 2115 family have a height-adjustable steering wheel.

For modification we need this part, an adjustable column from a VAZ 2114.

So, let's start disassembling the steering column. And after 15 minutes of work, the interior of my nine already looks like this:

We remove the old column. Below you can see the difference between the standard steering column of the VAZ 2109 (in the photo it is on top) and the adjustable column from the VAZ 2114 (in the photo it is below).

There is one caveat when installing a new speaker. It is necessary to place spacers between the body of the installed column and the body, and it is advisable to increase (replace) the mounting studs.

In the future, everything is installed without any problems or modifications. Let's put everything back in place. I also used the steering column cover from a VAZ 2114.

As a result, we get these extreme positions of steering wheel adjustments!

Highest steering position:

Lowest steering wheel position:

Once again I achieved the desired result. Right now I can set the steering wheel to a position that is comfortable for me.

Installation of an adjustable steering column in a VAZ 21099

It seems like a hackneyed topic, BUT nothing really is written anywhere. Therefore, I will write everything down as much as possible. I'll start with perhaps the most exciting question. Is the steering column from 2110 suitable? There are 3 types of steering columns: 1. The oldest one is from the VAZ 2110 (the adjustment knob is located on the left side), yes it fits, its casing is similar to 2108, only there is a slot for the handle. In terms of style, this column is best suited for VP, I think so. It fits without the slightest modifications, etc.

it looks like this, this is the steering column from 2110

2. The same column from the VAZ 2114, it looks like we are all used to seeing. The adjustment knob is located at the bottom. In terms of the style of the casing, it is best suited for the Euro panel, again IMHO. It gets up just the same without a single hitch.

top one in the photo

3. Well, the third is the steering column from a VAZ 2110 with power steering. The adjustment knob is located at the bottom, like the 14, and that’s where the similarities end.

this is what the column looks like

The difference is fundamental: - the intermediate shaft is completely different

- the shaft on which the steering wheel is directly attached is longer than 14 - the height travel is greater - I came across a column with a spacer plate for a new body with a Europanel for the 10th family

so to summarize, take any column to your taste, just look carefully at the shaft

What kind of blemish is this on the intermediate shaft?

circled

a lot of different crap: - remains from blocking the shaft (such a blocking crutch) - for balancing and a bunch of other things, to be honest, I don’t know what this is for, so I’ll just advise you to look for a column without it. Again, this is my personal opinion. Now, let's move on to the installation. unscrew the old column and forget about it. First we stick the new one into the rail (there is a special groove there, so that it fits into the slots in only one position). But it is screwed to the body with 2 studs (in the front), in the old version of the body the studs are welded and with 2 shear bolts (I didn’t fool around - I installed regular bolts

as you can see, I have a newer body style

To be honest, I was too lazy to try on the heels, but don’t skimp on the long ones. Especially if you are going to install a europanel

These are factory studs for the europanel

as you can see in the back there are regular bolts

Don't forget to put the ignition switch back on

It’s logical to ask, why is it needed at all? Yes, in fact, the old speaker was quite high enough, but when you go on the highway or, in principle, on long trips in a straight line, my hands begin to numb. This is where adjustment should come to the rescue. + to top it all off, in the VP it was hard for me to see the instrument panel behind the wheel.

Installation of power steering 2110-2112 in VAZ 2109

Task: installing power steering on Lada 2109

Stages: 1. Installation of the pump (and all associated) 2. Installation

Looking for signs of trouble

A malfunction in the rack is usually caused by driving on an uneven and very dusty road:

• Moreover, the less carefully the owner drives the car on broken roads, the faster the rack breaks and begins to knock
• On a VAZ 2109, play in the steering rack is one of the first signs that constitute the general symptoms of its breakdown
• In other words, in order to avoid frequent repairs of steering parts, you should slow down when you see noticeable road irregularities in front of the car, and avoid crossing across tram rails
• And if suddenly such a need arises for you, then perform this intersection at the lowest speed
• Also, constant driving onto curbs, as well as sudden accelerations when the steering wheel is in extreme positions (right or left), can lead to premature breakdown and repair of steering mechanisms; this leads to an increase in the load on the steering gearbox, and other parts of the steering rack, and to rapid wear of the power steering pump.
• The consequences will be as follows: contamination and damage to the seals operating in the power steering system.
• Often, external signs of rack malfunctions can easily be confused with other malfunctions, because diagnosing this unit is not a simple task
• And in some special cases, in order to find the problem, it has to be completely disassembled
• Drivers often ask a typical question: how can we identify faults in the steering rack?
• We answer - the most noticeable and obvious symptom is a characteristic knocking sound when the car moves on an uneven road, which intensifies when the steering wheel is turned.

The most noticeable symptoms of malfunctions:

• The steering wheel becomes stiff (often it turns tightly only in one specific direction)
• On the asphalt after parking the car, oil stains may remain in the area of ​​the front of the car.
• There is a hum in the power steering
• If such signs appear, there is a very high probability that your car may become completely uncontrollable.

Now that it has become clear how to diagnose the steering rack with your own hands, it is necessary to more often monitor the behavior of the steering and promptly perform thorough maintenance of this unit. A timely check of the rack will help make a timely conclusion about the need for repair, especially when there is a clear leak of steering rack lubricant.

General information about the steering of VAZ 2108 / VAZ 2109 / VAZ 21099

Steering:

1. Steering wheel,

Steering wheel nut,

2. Upper steering column cover,
3. Steering gear,
4. Steering shaft flange,
5. Steering shaft,
6. Steering shaft pipe,
7. Lower steering column cover,
8. Ball joint,
9. Tie rod end,
10. Anther,
11. Steering gear rack,
12. Steering rod mounting bolt,
13. Lock plate,
14. Tie Rod,
15. Front strut swing arm.

The vehicle uses a rack and pinion steering mechanism. The steering wheel, through a damper element, is connected to the steering shaft, at the end of which the steering gear drive gear is installed. The drive gear is in mesh with a rack, pressed against it by a spring, which allows you to adjust the degree of engagement. The rack has the ability to move longitudinally in the steering gear housing, the left side of which is closed with a protective rubber plug, and the right side has a pressed pipe with a longitudinal groove. The spacer bushings of the rubber-metal hinges of the inner tie rod ends pass through the groove of the pipe, which are attached directly to the rack with bolts installed inside the bushings. The steering rods are connected to the rotary arms of the left and right telescopic struts of the front suspension by ball joints located at the ends of the outer rod ends. The rods can be adjusted in length by means of a tube, which is screwed onto the end of the rod and secured with locknuts.

Service reference data

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Let's analyze the removed steering rack of front-wheel drive VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars and their modifications. The steering rack will have to be disassembled when deciding to repair it (this is one of the stages of repair) and not replace it with a new one in case of malfunctions. Namely, the appearance of knocking noises (the rack knocks), vibrations and shocks on the steering wheel, increased play in the steering wheel - problems that are very common on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars.

special keys for disassembling steering rack 2108

Features of disassembling the steering rack of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

We will not consider removing the steering rods, protective cover and cap, because everything is simple there, but then it’s more complicated. To make work easier, the body of the rack can be clamped in a vice, but you can also do everything on your knee.

— Remove the steering rack stop

To do this, use a special wrench to unscrew the plug (nut) of the stop and remove it.

use a special wrench to unscrew the steering rack stop plug

We take out the spring located under the plug.

Use a slotted screwdriver to pry it up and remove the stop ring.

Turn the rack shaft (with an open-end wrench set to 14) clockwise until the end of the stroke and, pressing on the protruding part of the rack, move the stop.

We remove the rack stop itself from its body (you can use special thin pliers, insert them into the hole for the spring in the stop and pull it out, or simply knock it out with a sharp blow of the rack body on a wooden block due to inertia).

removing the steering rack stop 2108

— Remove the steering rack shaft with bearing

Remove the shaft boot.

Remove the shaft lock washer.

We unscrew the bearing nut with a special wrench and remove it.

unscrew the rack shaft nut 2108 with a special wrench

We remove the rack shaft with bearing. We use a lever: we hook it to the flat on the shaft with a long open-end wrench size 14 and, leaning it on the mounting (or a wide wrench), pull out the shaft.

remove the rack shaft using a lever

— Pull the rail itself towards the short part of the body

— Use a screwdriver to remove the rack support sleeve

— We remove the needle shaft bearing from the steering rack housing (you can use a special puller or drill two holes in the end of the rack housing with a 2 mm drill and knock out the bearing through them). The needle bearing should be removed for replacement only when it is clearly worn out, since it rarely fails.

a rack removed from the body, a support sleeve and holes for drilling through which the needle bearing is knocked out

The steering rack of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars is completely disassembled.

elements of the removed steering rack shaft 2108

If necessary, use a puller to compress the ball bearing from the rack shaft using a pipe. First remove the retaining ring from the shaft.

Removing the steering rack shaft bearing using a three-legged puller

Notes and additions

— After disassembly, we completely wash the rack body and all removed elements. Next, we carry out the rejection of faulty parts, their replacement and assembly.

More articles on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

Each component and unit of the car requires careful attention and timely maintenance. There can be no trifles here, because even the smallest cotter pin with a minor crack can lead to big troubles. By default, the steering mechanism should be serviced and diagnosed first - this is safety on the road, neglect of which can lead to very undesirable consequences.

The value of the rack in the VAZ 2109

The steering rack in front-wheel drive cars - VAZ 2108, 2109, 2111 and the like, is responsible for the operation of the entire steering mechanism. Ignoring the symptoms of problems that may arise with its technical condition can lead to undesirable consequences, including jamming of the mechanism, which is not the most pleasant surprise in traffic. Therefore, repairing the steering rack of a VAZ 2109 and other front-wheel drive cars should not be a surprise to the driver.

Signs of a faulty steering rack

With the help of a steering rack in front-wheel drive cars of most manufacturers, including domestic ones, the rotational movement of the steering wheel is transmitted using a rack and pinion mechanism to the swing arms, which turn the front wheels through steering rods. How this works can be seen in the figure below.

Diagnostics and repair of the VAZ 2109 steering rack must be carried out if the following symptoms become noticeable:

• Grinding noise when turning the steering wheel in the rack area;
• Leaking grease from seals;
• Periodic sticking of the steering wheel;
• Increased play in the steering mechanism.

Each of these symptoms needs to be checked, but if at least one of them is confirmed, the first thing you have to do is dismantle the steering rack for disassembly and fault detection.

Removing the steering rack

Dismantling the rack is a lengthy process, as it involves preliminary disassembly of many components. We do not pretend to present the optimal way to remove it, but as an example, consider the following procedure, if necessary, providing it with explanatory pictures:

1. We hang the front of the car with a jack so that the wheels can be removed. Don't forget the wheel chocks.
2. We provide full access to the steering rack by disconnecting the gas adsorber, wires and moving them to the side. After this, you can unscrew the bolt from the spline joint, having first aligned the wheels with the steering wheel. The bolt is located in the area of ​​the pedal assembly, and to unscrew it we use a spanner or a cardan head.
3. We clean the tie rod mounting nuts from dirt and undo them with pliers. Unscrew the nuts with a spanner wrench. To disconnect the rods, we need a puller, which we install as shown in the photo. Then we unscrew the rods from the rack housing. But it is better to remove the crankcase along with the rods - it will be easier to remove them in a vice.
4. Having freed the steering rack, we take it out through the wheel well, clean it, wash it and clamp it in a vice.

Disassembly and defectiveness of the steering rack

We have the rack in our hands, now we can carry out complete disassembly and troubleshooting and replacement of parts. We would recommend purchasing a repair kit that includes all the parts to be replaced. Since the rail has been removed, it would be advisable to go through it completely.

Now we completely disassemble the steering rack, trying not to lose anything, there are many small parts there. First, remove the anthers, stops and end caps. After this, use an octagon, as shown in the photo, to unscrew the screw plugs and remove the spring, thrust bushings and retaining rings.

Then we remove the bearing and carefully inspect it for play. The repair kit must contain a replacement one, therefore, even if our bearing is in good condition, it is better to install a new one. We take out and inspect the drive gear, and it will allow us to remove the rack itself completely.

Next it will be a little more difficult. Now you need to replace the support shaft bushing and rubber bands, which should be in the repair kit. This is what they look like. Old and new.

Without removing the rubber from the bushing, you need to place it in the crankcase, and only then cut off the rubber with a sharp knife.

But this is not the biggest problem. Next we will change the needle bearing. To dismantle it, you need a special key, which not everyone has. Therefore, we will do without it. We will need a drill and a 1.5 mm drill bit. With this drill we will drill a hole so as to loosen the end of the bearing. Now it’s easy to knock out the old bearing from the crankcase using a punch. It looks like this.

Before pressing in a new needle bearing, be sure to thoroughly rinse the entire steering rack housing - there may be chips and debris left there after drilling. The hole that we drilled cannot be left like that and must be eliminated. The easiest way is a mixture of superglue and metal filings. The mixture hardens very quickly and this will not prolong the repair much.

Now you need to lubricate everything that is lubricated. To do this, use Litol-24 in any package or any other grease. Grease for CV joints is also suitable. Now you can assemble everything in reverse order and install the rack on the car.

There is nothing more to add - by rebuilding the steering rack ourselves, we saved a lot of money and learned how to do it ourselves, which is even more expensive than money.

Repair kit for rack VAZ 2109

It won’t hurt to familiarize yourself with the repair kits that are sold in car dealerships. They can be either complete or incomplete. The complete repair kit should include:

• Needle bearing;
• Support bearing;
• Retaining rings;
• Plastic support sleeve;
• Two rubber seals for the bushing;
• Spring;
• Set of gaskets;
• Boot cover;
• Rail;
• Drive gear;
• Set of ties for anthers.

The shortened set does not include the rack and pinion itself, but the full set may rarely be needed. Only when overhauling the rack.

After repairs, do not forget to tighten the fastening bolts and nuts several times every 200-300 km - they can become loose due to vibration. While operating the car, also do not forget to look at the rack boots. They can be of different quality, so it is not surprising if they ask for replacement after 10-15 thousand kilometers.

In general, repairing a steering rack is a simple but lengthy process, so you need to try to perform all repair operations as efficiently as possible. And then you will forget for a long time about knocking in the steering and steering play.

Adjustment methods

The steering rack can be adjusted in two ways.

Adjustment method

Peculiarities

If the rack is removed and adjusted, we are most often talking about repairing or replacing the unit with a new one. It is recommended to carry out such settings only in these situations

Without dismantling the unit

This method of adjustment is relevant if it is necessary to tighten the rack slightly, remove play, and get rid of knocking noises. Here it is quite possible to do without dismantling work, that is, to set up the mechanism directly on the car

Malfunctions

There are several typical steering rack malfunctions that VAZ 2109 owners encounter. In some situations, simple adjustments can be done, while in others, more detailed intervention in the design of the unit and its components will be required.

Steering rack breakdowns are as follows:

• The steering rack fastenings are loose;
• The rack itself or its gears have worn out;
• Pair engagement is not adjusted properly;
• The bushings at the junction of the rack and steering rods have worn out.

It is not always possible to adjust the rack to eliminate its incorrect operation. This occurs due to the fact that an impressive production of components is formed inside. This can only be determined by dismantling. Therefore, if the adjustment does not bring the expected effect, you will have to remove the rack from the car and check what is wrong with it.

Dismantling

You will not be able to assess the current condition of the steering rack unless you dismantle the device.

There is no optimal way to dismantle the steering rack, since the process in any case involves quite labor-intensive, time-consuming work that involves disassembling many components.

Now you have a choice - completely replace the steering rack or try to repair it. The second option will take more time, but will save an impressive amount of money.

Why do the adjustments?

The force on the front wheels of the VAZ 2109 is transmitted through a gear, which, in turn, interacts with a rack. To eliminate any gaps that arise in the engagement, pressure springs are used.

The rack adjustment is carried out in order to eliminate the resulting backlash, as well as to improve the clarity and obedience of the steering.

If the rack is not tightened correctly, the steering wheel will turn too tightly. This phenomenon occurs due to the fact that the adjusting screw has been overtightened. The task of adjustment is to find the golden mean.

Node diagram

Removing the steering rack

To remove the steering mechanism you will need an inspection pit or a lift. Once under the car, you need to unsplit the steering pin nuts and knock the pins out of the steering arms.

After this, you need to unscrew the spline joint locking bolt located in the pedal area. Also remove the plastic casing that covers the steering shaft. After this, using a 13mm socket, unscrew a pair of nuts on each side that press the steering mechanism to the car body.

Carefully remove the brackets securing the steering mechanism. After this, we disconnect the drive gear from the steering shaft and lift the right side of the car with a jack, and then pull out the steering mechanism of the car through the window in the wheel well.

Specifically, on the car being repaired, there was severe shaking in the area of ​​the steering shaft. Also, the steering wheel can wobble a lot from side to side. There is significant play both left and right and up and down.

Before starting work, you should disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. We need to remove the steering wheel, remove the plastic signal trim, unscrew it with a 24mm socket and a long wrench:

After this, we take the steering wheel with both hands and alternately pull it towards ourselves. Unscrew the tube:

Disconnect the plug with wires. Next we need to remove the ignition switch, in our case the bolt heads were broken off, most likely this was done at the factory or at an official dealer to protect against theft. We will try to use a chisel to turn it counterclockwise.

Or, if you have a semiautomatic welding machine, you can weld studs to the bolts and unscrew them. Don’t forget to purchase new, normal bolts in advance so that you can easily tighten them during assembly. Pull out the retaining ring:

After this, you can remove the handle and unscrew the nut, take out the bolt and bushing. Use a 13mm socket to unscrew the bracket (2 bolts and two nuts):

Using a 13mm wrench or socket, unscrew the last mounting bolt:

The old bearing can be knocked off with a hammer. We knock out the other bearing using a mandrel, which we insert into the “binoculars”.

New original bearing from VAZ, number in the spare parts catalog 6-1000805. It is placed inside with the plastic part. To make the bearing seat easier, lubricate the steering shaft, you can use silicone grease. I recommend lubricating the bearings themselves with lithol. We assemble in reverse order; the video shows the entire process from start to finish.

Adjustment

So, the situation is such that tightening the steering rack can still give a positive result. Therefore, you need to find out how to tighten the knot and what is required for this.

You can adjust the rack through the bottom of the car, removing the engine protection, or through the top. In the second case, the work will have to be done by touch. So decide for yourself what is more convenient for you.

1. To adjust the steering rack, you will need to tighten the adjusting screw. You can find it in the steering mechanism. To be more specific, in the end cap.
2. It is optimal to have an overpass or a pit at your disposal in the garage. If there are no such conditions, you can get by by raising the car with a jack. Only in this situation will it be necessary to additionally secure the car in order to avoid it sliding off the jack and the likely consequences.
3. Before lifting the body with a jack, be sure to align the front wheels straight.
4. You can measure the backlash using a backlash meter. Moreover, they can be old or electronic. The latter are more relevant and convenient to use, but some people don’t have to choose. What you find is what you will use.
5. According to current norms and standards, for the VAZ 2109 the steering wheel play should not exceed 10 degrees.
6. Find the adjusting screw and begin to tighten it gradually. The operation is carried out slowly. Periodically check the steering wheel movement and any play or knocking in the steering column.
7. Use a special key for adjustment. It is available at any auto parts store.
8. The key is inserted into the adjusting screw and turned counterclockwise. Scroll a little and check the result.
9. The procedure may take a long time. Still, take your time.
10. When you feel that the adjustment has reached the desired level, take a test drive in your car, feel how the steering wheel moves, whether the knocking or play has disappeared, how hard the steering wheel rotates.
11. If the steering wheel has become too tight, you will have to slightly loosen the tension on the adjusting screw.

Special key If there is no positive result after the adjustment, you will have to eliminate play and knocking by dismantling, repairing or completely replacing the unit. Now decide for yourself.

You should not rely solely on reiki adjustments as a cure for all its ills. But you shouldn’t rush to conclusions about the need to replace the rack. Try to adjust, and then act according to the situation.

Repair kit contents

If the question you are interested in is “which one to choose,” then there will be practically no recommendations here, because the design of all mechanisms in VAZ car models is almost identical. So:

• Just remember that you should beware of counterfeits when purchasing.
• And one more thing you should definitely know before purchasing a steering rack repair kit is the fact that they come in different configurations
• The simplest and, therefore, the cheapest repair kit includes only a washer, nut, and bearing, as well as fluoroplastic bushings, since bushings are consumables
• The average-priced kit is the same kit, only complete with all bearings and shafts
• And finally, the most expensive configuration option, which is used to perform major repairs, is equipped directly with a new steering rack

Eliminating backlash

Of course, major repairs are not necessary in every case, and replacement of component parts is also not always necessary, because:

• On the VAZ 2109, the steering rack is adjustable, and if you know how to tighten the steering rack mechanism, then you can remove steering knocks without any financial investment at all
• This is possible, of course, if the knocking is caused by operational or factory control play
• To adjust, you should use a trestle or inspection hole, find the adjusting nut under a layer of dirt, then use a special wrench “17” to tighten it

We disassemble the rack

When you have eliminated the play, but the knocking has not disappeared, then the steering rack on the VAZ 2109 must be disassembled and repaired:

• Repairing the rack yourself will not be difficult, of course, if you know in what sequence the operations need to be performed
• First, we remove the steering rack, and if everything is in order with the rods, then it is not necessary to remove them, just unscrew them from the unit and that’s it
• Then we clamp it in a vice or in a special device for repair.
• And then remove the clamps securing the protective cap, boot, right support and spacer ring
• Subsequently, all other parts are removed (photo with diagram below), including complete pressing out of the bearings
• Then the parts should be cleaned of dirt as thoroughly as possible, followed by washing them in kerosene
• And after cleaning all the parts, they should be very carefully inspected for signs of tears or other damage.
• If small scuffs can be easily removed with sandpaper, all heavily worn parts, and especially damaged ones, must be replaced
• The same approach applies to bearing troubleshooting.
• In their particular case, if there is the slightest doubt about the performance of these devices, parts should be replaced immediately
• You should also understand that tightening the steering rack itself, the procedure, in principle, is not a difficult operation to perform with your own hands
• But disassembling the steering wheel, and even more so replacing it, may require special skills from you; in addition, you will need competent instructions
• When you have absolutely no time or desire to carry out such operations yourself, or you do not want to delve into all the intricacies of this process, then the best option for you would be to perform all repair work in a specialized automobile workshop
• You, of course, understand that the price of specialist services will cost more than self-repair
• Moreover, the amount of the invoice that you will receive may vary greatly.
• For example, carrying out troubleshooting is one cost, but a complete repair is a completely different one.

Schematic structure of the steering rack, it clearly shows what is removed and then put back on

• It is worth noting that the steering rack is not the cheapest component of a car, so few people dare to replace the whole thing right away.
• Everyone starts by trying to repair the existing device.
• It happens that it is enough to simply adjust it so that the malfunction disappears, or perform a partial repair by replacing the bearings
• Of course, the diagnostic procedure, as well as subsequent repairs, is impossible without disassembling
• Only by disassembling the steering rack will you get a complete picture of the condition of its parts, which parts require improvement (grinding, for example), and which should definitely be replaced
• Repair in almost any case will be much cheaper than a complete replacement
• And if you repair the rack yourself, you will also save on the cost of auto mechanic services
• To carry out independent repairs, as has been mentioned more than once, you will need a repair kit, specific keys, as well as a set of bearings and grease.
• Not a lot of money is spent on purchasing components
• However, if you have replaced all the bearings, as well as seals and lubrication, and still have problems with the operation of the machine, then you will still need the services of specialists to determine the exact cause of the failure or replace the “serious” (major) components
• The most remarkable thing is that in the conditions of the modern total “deficit” of finance, a complete replacement of the entire unit is resorted to only in extreme cases, when there is nothing left to repair in the old one