August 23, 2021 Lada.Online 2 695 0
From the factory, Lada NIva Travel (formerly ChevyNiva), Niva Legend (formerly 4×4, 2121, 2131) are equipped with a hydraulic timing chain tensioner. One of the popular and simple modifications is the replacement of the hydraulic chain tensioner with a mechanical (automatic) one. Let's figure out why this is needed and how to replace it yourself.
Advantages of an automatic tensioner
- Reduces noise from chain operation.
- Does not require maintenance.
- Does not require an oil line, which eliminates chafing and loss of oil pressure.
- The chain is tensioned regardless of whether the engine is running or not.
- Automatically tightens the vehicle chain as it stretches.
- There are no plunger elements in the design (this eliminates jamming of the tensioner).
- Due to the adjusted spring tension force, the mechanical tensioner practically does not wear out the chain tension shoe.
- The service life of all timing components increases due to correct chain tension.
Price
: from 600 rub.
Where can I buy
: in our online store (category Chain tensioners).
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Content:
general information
It has long been known that the quality of car parts produced at the AvtoVAZ plant is not of a high level. And timing parts are no exception. The chain has to be constantly tightened, almost every thousand kilometers. A hydraulic chain tensioner will help get rid of this problem. It is this device that we will talk about in this article. Let's look in detail at the operation scheme and replacement of the device.
How to replace
Replacement procedure for Chevy Niva
:
1.
Remove the plastic engine cover.
2.
Remove the air duct pipes.
3.
Remove the oil line along with the tee.
4.
Remove the hydraulic chain tensioner.
5.
Remove dirt and oil.
6.
Install the mechanical tensioner using sealant.
The process of installing an automatic chain tensioner on a Lada Niva Legend (4×4):
The process of installing an automatic chain tensioner on a Lada Niva Travel (Chevrolet):
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Chain tensioner. Hydraulic tensioner.
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hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by Didik oleg » 08 Aug 2010, 21:48
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by simbir » 08 Aug 2010, 22:37
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by ALK » 08 Aug 2010, 23:02
Who knows what's going on behind the fence of the zoo? ©
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by medvedka » 08 Aug 2010, 23:53
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by ALK » 09 Aug 2010, 00:45
Who knows what's going on behind the fence of the zoo? ©
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by Didik oleg » 09 Aug 2010, 08:16
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by medvedka » 09 Aug 2010, 08:33
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by ALK » 09 Aug 2010, 09:41
Who knows what's going on behind the fence of the zoo? ©
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by Anton » 09 Aug 2010, 10:06
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by medvedka » 09 Aug 2010, 10:54
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
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Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by medvedka » 09 Aug 2010, 13:06
Re: hydraulic tensioner (need help)
Post by Didik oleg » 09 Aug 2010, 13:27
Chain tensioner. Hydraulic tensioner.
Message from ivan. » 29 Oct 2012, 20:04
Re: Chain damper.
Post by wwm » 29 Oct 2012, 20:07
Re: Chain damper.
Message from ivan. » 30 Oct 2012, 17:37
Re: Chain damper.
Posted by doc Brown » Oct 30, 2012 8:09 pm
Re: Chain damper.
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Re: General questions about engine malfunctions.
Post by Scorpion » 06 Nov 2012, 13:30
Owner reviews
Review from the owner romanov696 about the ISAI tensioner:
The rustling of the chain was more annoying, especially when it was cold. Plus, the standard hydraulic system itself is not the most reliable or the best. I won't argue, but I don't like her. On the Classic I have a mechanical tensioner, no problems at all.
Review from excidium owner about ISAI tensioner:
As a result, the sound of the clanging chain disappeared when starting the engine. What was required to be achieved. Well, the reliability of a mechanical tensioner can only be judged during operation.
Review from the owner 31alexxx about the Trialli tensioner:
The hardware looks and feels well made, there are practically no backlashes or cracks. The mounting plate is much thicker than that of the hydraulic tensioner (I don’t know whether it was factory installed or not). Another thing that persuaded me to choose this spare part was the fairly large area of the piece of iron that rests on the plastic tensioner. By the way, the kit comes with a good quality gasket. Result: the slight clicking sound of the hydraulic compensators has become more clearly audible, the engine runs noticeably smoother!
Depecher owner's review of the Pilot tensioner:
By the way, I didn’t notice any difference in the behavior of the car on the way home; apparently, on an almost new car, the standard GNC still works quite adequately, so I didn’t feel anything at all after the replacement. Although there was snow on the street and low flow speeds of many kilometers of traffic jams, it was not particularly possible to evaluate the behavior of the car in a wide range of speeds. But this replacement of the State Scientific Center was necessary so as not to ruin everything in the future.
Comparison of mechanical tensioners Ryloth and Isai from 113region:
Today, I decided to change the Pilot to Isai, because... I thought that the Pilot was already tired after 50 thousand. But, having removed the Pilot, I didn’t find anything criminal - there was no wear on either the comb or the ratchet, the spring was normal. But since I took it off, I installed Isaiah - it won’t lie on the shelf for years, I need to try it))) I installed it. I went for a ride. Now a little comparison: Both Pilot and Isai are good, both perform their function 100%, if not fake (this applies to Pilot, because they say about Isai that we are unkillable). The only thing is that Isai is a little quieter, because... The Pilot has a moment when the chain is a little loose, but not enough for the comb to “click”, so at those moments it is a little noisier. But in general, the difference is not significant for the average user. Therefore, you can take both this one and this one.
Other improvements
:
- How to install electric headlight corrector instead of hydraulic corrector on Lada Granta, Niva
- How to make removable transfer case levers on a Niva, which 100% eliminate the howl and hum of the Republic of Kazakhstan
Keywords: 4x4 engine | Niva engine
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Replacing the hydraulic chain tensioner on a Chevrolet Niva with a manual one
If the chain stretch is large, then the hydraulic tensioner should be changed. It is also important to simultaneously replace the chain, gasket and oil seal. Replacement is carried out in this order :
- Using a key set to “10”, unscrew the tube through which fluid flows into the hydraulic tensioner.
Using a 10mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the tensioner to the cylinder head.
The old hydraulic tensioner can no longer be repaired.
Assembly order
- The new device is inserted into its seat.
- Screwed with two bolts to the engine housing.
- A tube is connected through which fluid flows to the tensioner.
If the car has already traveled 100,000 kilometers, but there is no extraneous noise from the chain in the engine compartment area, then you still need to inspect it for damage and stretching.
Replacing the chain tensioner VAZ 21213, VAZ 21214, VAZ 2131
Chain tensioner - as is already clear from its name, it is needed only to tension the chain so that it does not loosen while the engine is running, and so over time this part breaks for various reasons, this happens, sometimes the tensioner simply cannot withstand very heavy loads breaks, for example, if you keep the engine speed in the red zone for a long time, the tensioner cannot withstand and breaks, but it can also break because it is not very durable, for example, there are a lot of very bad tensioners on the market at the moment qualities that really fail very quickly and after that they will need to be replaced with a new one, and you will learn how to do this from this article.
When to change the chain tensioner
It changes only if it has become unusable, but how can you understand this, you ask? In general, when the tensioner becomes unusable, the car’s engine begins to run significantly louder, because the chain is weakened and thus there is such a roar as if you started the car with a diesel injection system, and not with a gasoline one, so if you hear something rattling in the engine, vibration may also appear, and by the way, this knocking should become less as the speed increases, that is, if the engine is noisy at idle and the chain rattles, then just give a little gas and if this knock goes away (the higher the speed, the weaker it should be knocking) then it is most likely really the tensioner, although many other parts could be to blame for this, but first you need to check it, since it is removed very quickly and is also checked accordingly.
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