✅ Replacing Prior silent blocks with your own hands

Removing the lever, replacing silent blocks

We remove the lever from the car to replace it, as well as to replace the silent blocks of the lever.
The work is shown on the right lever; the left lever is removed in the same way. Disconnect the ball joint from the lever (see “Removing the ball joint”). Unscrew the nut securing the brace to the front suspension arm and remove the washer (see “Removing the brace”). We unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the lever and remove the bolt (see “Removing the stabilizer bar”). Using a 19mm socket, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body, holding the bolt with a wrench of the same size. When removing the right lever, it is not possible to completely remove the fastening bolt due to the small gap between the bolt and the wheel drive shaft. That's why…

...resting a powerful screwdriver or mounting blade against the body, press the drive shaft together with the shock absorber strut and fist... ...and use a soft metal drift to knock out and remove the bolt.

We remove the lever from the bracket...

...and take it out by removing it from the rear end of the stretcher. When removing the left suspension arm, there is no need to press down the wheel drive shaft.

To replace the silent block of the lever, we press it out in a vice with tool heads or pipe sections of a suitable size. We wet the new silent block with soapy water and press it into the lever.

We knock down the silent block of the extension with a chisel. Having removed the silent block on one side of the lever, we similarly dismantle the silent block on the other side.

We pre-press new silent blocks in a vice...

...and finally press it, striking a punch with a diameter of 8 mm through three windows in the rubber layer. Install the lever in reverse order. We tighten the threaded connections of rubber-metal hinges in the “vehicle on wheels” position. After installing the lever, it is necessary to check and, if necessary, adjust the wheel alignment at a special stand - at a service station.

Required tools:

vice;
new silent blocks VAZ 2109;
liquid soap (can be replaced with detergent or soapy water)
source of fire (a gas burner is suitable);
a piece of pipe whose diameter allows free entry of the silent block;
standard set of keys;
chisel and hammer;
WD-40 penetrating fluid.

To work, place the car on a viewing hole or lift.

To replace the silent blocks of a VAZ 2109, as for other work, disassembly and dismantling are required.

Unscrew the lower lever. To do this, use a socket with an extension to remove the extension nut, as well as the fixation nut to the body. Then remove the stabilizer link and 2 ball joint bolts. To make it easier to work with stuck and rusted nuts, you need to warm up the connection or use a penetrating liquid. If these methods do not help, try unscrewing the crab, clamp it in a vice, and try again.

Secure the removed lever in a vice and use a lamp or torch to burn out the old silent block from its seat. If this option is not possible, you will have to press it out with a special puller or vice, but this will take more time.

After the silent block has burned out slightly, it can be easily removed with a screwdriver or chisel.

Remove dirt, dust and rust from the place where the new silent block will be installed. Blow it out thoroughly.

Lifehack: rear beam of a Priora car, main faults, replacement

Budget cars use a rear beam instead of an independent suspension; the Priora is mounted on a beam at the rear. This massive part is attached to the body on hinges. To make the car more stable, a rear beam stabilizer is provided. It is attached through the stabilizer bushings. There is also a front beam, it is attached to the body and holds the front suspension. These parts are powerful and massive, but even they can break. As the mileage progresses, the silent blocks of the front and rear beams will need to be replaced. The price of spare parts is from 3000 rubles and above. A new part on a Priora costs more than a tenth. But this is mainly marketing. Priora's spare parts are dozens more expensive, although many of the spare parts are the same. The silent block of the rear and front beams can be changed due to wear and due to accidental displacement - when the car gets into an accident, the beam shifts. Good drivers keep everything in their car safe and clean: this applies to the body, chassis, engine, and small details. It is worth periodically checking the suspension of the Lada Priora car - during trips, it experiences considerable load due to poor road surface. At the same time, attention is paid to small components and large ones such as the rear and front beam. All the suspension parts are actually attached to it, which allows the car to move, brake, and confidently overcome obstacles. It must be strong and “hardy” - that is, it must withstand many kilometers before the first malfunction appears. However, a part on a Priora sometimes has to be changed ahead of schedule.

The rear beam can be very damaged due to falling into a deep hole on the road surface, which can “overwhelm” the entire suspension while driving. An emergency situation can occur even after an unsuccessful accident. You can replace it yourself, just understand the complex process and prepare everything you need.

Installing rear independent suspension on a car

When operating a vehicle on which a standard rear suspension is installed, the vehicle beam shifts towards the arch when cornering by approximately 1 cm. If the vehicle is equipped with a rear independent suspension, then such a beam displacement is not observed under similar operating conditions. The rear independent suspension is attached rigidly to the body, without using silent blocks in mounting the rear suspension on the Priora, which avoids lateral displacement of the beam.

Silent blocks, which are part of the design of the rear and front suspensions, perform the function of damping all torques and bending moments that may occur during movement, thereby ensuring a stable position of the vehicle on uneven road surfaces and when turning.

Silent blocks are mounted on a car as an element of the chassis and suspension, since this structural element is one of the most reliable and economical ways to prevent the influence of various types of deformations and loads that can occur during the operation of the car on the car body. Installation and replacement of silent blocks on Priora is provided for in some vehicle suspension components:

Basic faults

A beam can fail for two reasons:

displacement from place;
mechanical damage (most often a crack).

When a crack occurs in the lever, the torsional rigidity of the body decreases. This parameter determines the degree of safety, as well as the position of the parts. The fact is that with normal body rigidity, which is laid down during design and obtained after the final stage of car assembly, absolutely all components and assemblies (down to the bolts) are in place, they have a maximum permissible vibration amplitude. For example, the suspension “swallows” potholes - the parts actively move, and people in the cabin may not even notice the rolling.

If you increase the torsional rigidity of the body by adding lateral and longitudinal stability beams to the car, nothing bad will happen - the amplitude of vibrations will decrease, a pleasant plus will be the fact that the vehicle will become quieter, there will be less rattling. When the torsional rigidity of the body decreases, there may not even be any talk about comfort.

In addition to the fact that you will most likely have to get used to unpleasant sounds, there will be increased wear and tear on small parts. When a lever cracks, everything that is attached to it begins to move with greater amplitude. The problem is temporarily solved by welding, but this only postpones the solution to the problem for some time. Craftsmen recommend changing the beam.

Mechanical damage manifests itself in the connection of metal with rubber in the Priora levers - when wear reaches its climax, the rubber cracks and peels off. Because of this, a knock occurs in the front and rear suspension, and the car wobbles along the road.

Changing the front beam

For work, prepare two keys 17, 19, 24, WD-40 lubricant, and a ball joint remover. Removing and installing the front suspension arm in the following order:

Place the car over the inspection hole. You can install the front of the car on stable supports.
Secure the car with the handbrake.
Remove the wheels. To do this, moving in a circle, gradually loosen the bolts, and then smoothly pull the wheel towards you, accepting it.
Coat the threaded connections of the lever with WD-40.
While holding the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the lever, do not allow it to turn. Smoothly unscrew the fastening nut and remove the bolt.
Holding the extension from turning with a wrench, unscrew the nut securing it to the beam.
Remove the washer gasket.
Unscrew the ball joint bolt and press the ball joint pin out of the beam.
While holding the spring washer bolt from turning with a wrench, remove the nut that secures the washer to the lever.
Smoothly remove the end of the lever from the body bracket.
Remove the beam from the brace.
Remove several washers from the guy and mark them so that when installing, put them in the same order.
Inspect the part for damage: as it wears, the rubber will bulge, crack, and possibly peel off from the metal.
If it is necessary to replace the silent blocks of the front beam of the Priora, unscrew the bolt securing the front silent block with a 18mm socket. The rear mounting bolts are unscrewed with a 15mm socket.
Remove the silent block, noting its seating depth. Place the new part in place of the old one in strict accordance with the marked depth.
Install a new lever. Place the washers in the marked order, with the same side in relation to the center of the part with which they were installed previously. Please note that the final tightening of the connections is carried out after the car is lowered to the ground.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of Lada 2108 (VAZ 2108)

A decrease in driving comfort, as well as an uncharacteristic sound that appears when driving VAZ cars - 2108, 2109, 2114, 2115, Priora and Kalina, may indicate a failure of the front suspension silent blocks.
A car with such a breakdown will not only “rumble”, but will also lose proper stability when driving. Sometimes drivers do not notice changes in the behavior of their “iron horse” and only learn about problems with the silent blocks of the levers when performing wheel alignment. Any breakdown of your favorite car upsets its owner, but this malfunction cannot be called serious - it can be fixed on your own. True, for this you will need to “roll up your sleeves” and spend several hours on repairs. If you do not have the slightest locksmith skills or you simply do not have time, then it is better to give the faulty car into the hands of specialists who will quickly fix this simple malfunction. For motorists who are still hesitant and do not know whether they can fix this problem on their own, we suggest reading the following brief description of replacing silent blocks. We believe that after reading these recommendations, every motorist will be able to appreciate the possibility of repairing the car themselves.

So, to replace silent blocks you will need the following tools: socket and socket wrenches No. 17, No. 19, No. 24, a chisel, a hammer, a bench vice and a special device for pressing in new silent blocks (you can’t do without this device). To press in the “chamomile” (silent block of the brace) you will only need a vice and a hammer, but to correctly install the silent block of the lever you will need a special device consisting of an M12×170 bolt with a high nut and a bushing with a diameter of 38 mm. and 60mm long, as well as a thick and wide washer.

We recommend purchasing new silent blocks produced by Balakovo or SEVI. The products of these factories are reliable and of high quality, and their prices are very “democratic”.

After preparing all the necessary tools and purchasing the required spare parts, you can begin to independently replace the silent blocks of the front levers of VAZ family vehicles:

— The car must be placed in a repair pit. If engine compartment protection is installed, it must be removed. Next, you need to unscrew the nuts on the bolts securing the front arms. To do this, we recommend using wrench No. 17. Next, the mounting bolt is knocked out, the wheel bolts are loosened, and after jacking up the car, the wheel is removed;

- Next step. We use wrench No. 24, which has a “good” shoulder, and try to unscrew the nuts of the braces. To make this operation easier, we recommend that you first remove rust from the nuts and fill the joints with WD-40. After the nut “gives”, unscrew it completely and switch to the ball joint. It needs to be taken away from the steering knuckle. To do this, you only need to unscrew two bolts;

— We would like to note that sometimes it is very difficult to unscrew the tensioner nut. Each revolution is given with incredible effort. In such cases, it is easier to remove the entire lever with the crab and the extension. To do this, you just need to slightly loosen the extension nut, which is installed on the side of the crab, and unscrew the bolts securing the crab to the car body. Next, you can completely remove the entire assembly and, in a comfortable position, deal with the stubborn nut.

— This completes the dismantling process. Now you can start replacing the silent blocks of the extension. Faulty parts are removed using a chisel. Then the eyelet is thoroughly cleaned of any existing rust. The preparatory work has been completed. Next, we take new silent blocks and use a vice to press them into the lever. It has been noticed that the silent block does not shrink completely when clamped with a vice. Therefore, after partial landing, the lever is placed on a flat surface and the silent block is re-set with a sledgehammer or a powerful hammer. Just a few blows are enough to completely seat the silent blocks. Some motorists try to install a silent block without a vice, simply using a hammer, but this method is only suitable for confident “repairers”, since if the hammer hits the silent block inaccurately, the latter will become deformed and become unusable.

— Replacement of the front arm silent block. You must immediately remove the old part or what is left of it. If the old silent block is broken, then just remove the metal bushing and pry out the rubber part with a screwdriver. If the silent block is held firmly in the eye, then it can be removed using a prepared device. The new part must be lubricated with soap or any gel before installation. We also use a special device for installation. The bolt must be tightened carefully and without haste. If the edge of the part turns under, it must be straightened using a prepared screwdriver.

— After installing the silent blocks, you need to install the lever in its place. The nuts on the silent blocks are tightened only after the car is installed on the wheels.

Changing the rear beam, how to remove it

Replacing the rear beam on a Priora begins by raising the car using a lift, or you can raise the rear part by placing a jack under the lever. For work, prepare a pressing tool, wrenches 15, 19, 10 - the latter will be useful for unscrewing the brake pipe nuts.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the rear suspension shock absorbers.
Disconnect the parking brake cables from the equalizer and remove them.
Remove the cable sheaths from the bracket attached to the body. Take out the cables themselves and you will see the bolt securing the beam.
Disconnect the fasteners for the elastic lever of the pressure regulator drive from the bracket on the lever.
Remove the brake hoses one at a time, immediately closing the holes.
Remove the nuts securing the lever to the brackets. Before removing the lever, knock out the bolts.
When taking the lever with your partner, place it in a dry place. Despite the factory’s recommendations, it is recommended to leave the brackets on the body. After prolonged use, the bracket studs have become acidic and may break, so it is better to keep them in place.
Place a new part in place of the old one and assemble the suspension in the reverse order.
If you need to replace the silent blocks of the Priora rear beam, use a press out tool to remove the old parts, noting the depth of their installation, and put new ones in their place.
For a car, a torsion bar is installed directly from the factory. But for better stability of the rear suspension, you can additionally install a stabilizer - this increases the torsional rigidity of the body, creates a more “dense” pressure exerted in relation to the car parts, preventing them from becoming unnecessarily loose when moving.

Replacing silent blocks in the front suspension

Now let’s talk about how to replace the silent blocks of the front levers of the VAZ-2109. For this:

We hang up the front wheel and remove it;
Unscrew the fastening of the lever to the ball joint;
Unscrew the nut securing the stabilizer link and remove it from the lever;
Loosen the fastening of the lever to the body bracket and remove it from the car;
The silent block of the front lever of the VAZ-2109 can be removed in several ways - burn it out, knock it out or press it out with a puller or a vice;
We prepare the hinge seat - clean it of rust and rubber residues with a file. Afterwards, generously lubricate it with soapy water;
We make a small chamfer on the silent block and center it in the eye of the lever;
We do the pressing using a vice. We install the lever with the silent block between the jaws of the vice, align the position of the hinge relative to the hole, and then slowly tighten the vice, while periodically checking whether the hinge fits evenly.
After the silent block bushing rests against the jaws of the vice on both sides, remove the lever and finally seat the hinge in place;

After that, we put the lever on the car. We carry out a similar operation on the other side of the front of the car. After all work, check the tightness of the fasteners. Even if you do all the work yourself, you can complete it in 1 day.

Easy replacement of the front suspension arm silent block

When repairing the chassis of front-wheel drive cars of the VAZ family (Samara, Priora, Kalina, Grants), quite often there is a need to replace the silent blocks of the front suspension arms. And if there are usually no problems with replacing the rear hinge of the extension (chamomile), an ordinary hammer and chisel is enough. There are many difficulties with pressing out and pressing in the silent blocks of the lever.

The easiest way is to take the car to a service station, pay the money and not worry about it. But, if you are reading this material, then most likely you will be doing the replacement personally and you want to do everything cheaply, with high quality and without extra effort.

What kind of tricks are not used:

buy new levers with already pressed silent blocks and daisies (a rather low-budget option);
they take their removed levers to a service station, where they change the silent blocks with a press;
grind/buy various pullers;
They are trying to make a replacement using improvised means.

All options are working and you can use whichever one you consider the most problem-free in your situation. I’ll tell you about a way to replace the silent blocks of a lever without much expense or effort, but you’ll have to prepare a little.

So, in addition to the usual tools, we will need:

Old front wheel bearing from Samara, Priora, Kalina or Granta. If you have been repairing your car yourself for several years, then most likely you already have it lying around somewhere. If not, then you can ask your neighbors in the garage, friends, and finally, at any car service center. Its cost is close to zero, so it will be given to you without any problems at one service or another.
Long bolt with nut. Preferably hardened, it will last longer. 15 centimeters long, 12 mm in diameter. There should be as many threads as possible. For our purposes, you can take a cylinder head bolt, classic suspension bolts, or in general any suitable bolts.
A pair of thick washers with a central hole for our bolt, one with an outer diameter of at least 40 mm, the second with a diameter of up to 30 mm.
Silicone grease or soap solution (or dishwashing liquid).

Features of choosing silent blocks

To carry out the work, you first need to buy new elements. For VAZ-2109, you should select hinges according to the catalog number (2109-08-054). When purchasing, it is important not to confuse them with the hinges for the 2110 model, since the size of the silent block of the rear suspension of the VAZ-2109 is different (they are slightly smaller in diameter). Although it is quite possible to install a “tenth” element, pressing it in will be somewhat more difficult.

size of silent blocks of the rear suspension of VAZ 2109

As for the front end, you can purchase assembled VAZ-2109 front suspension arms (with silent blocks) and install them. But this is not economically feasible, since levers are much more expensive than rubber elements. And although replacing silent blocks is a more labor-intensive operation compared to replacing a lever, repairs will cost many times less.

rubber silent blocks and polyurethane

As for the choice of hinges based on the elastic material used, VAZ silent blocks can be purchased in both rubber and polyurethane. The latter have a longer service life, but they are tougher and more expensive. But in general, the car owner himself will have to decide which elements to purchase.

Note that you should only buy hinges from well-established manufacturers - SS20 DAAZ Corteco, etc.

Pressing out the silent block

To press out the old silent block, you need to cut off the rubber side on one side. You can cut the rubber with a simple knife, or you can cut it down with a hacksaw. Then, through any suitable iron spacer, we simply knock the silent block out of the lever. You need to hit it hard, preferably with a sledgehammer, don’t be afraid, you won’t break anything. In the picture below there is already a knocked out silent block with a cut off side.

Instead of a sledgehammer, you can use a heavy-duty vice if you have one. You can burn the rubber with a blowtorch or gas torch. You can drill several holes in the rubber and then knock out the weakened silent block. All options are working, choose the one that is more convenient for you. But, as a rule, just knocking it out is faster and easier (necessarily with a cut side).

Next, we clean the hole for the silent block from rust using a round file or sandpaper and lubricate it with soapy water or silicone grease. I strongly do not recommend using anything else as a lubricant, such as lithol, solid oil, fiol, CV joint, etc. Since such lubricants negatively affect the condition of rubber products. Therefore, only silicone or soap solution.

At this point, the operations of pressing out and preparing the lever for installing a new silent block can be considered completed.