Why doesn't the car start if the starter turns but doesn't engage?

23.06.2014

Engine assembly

Let's look at the reasons why the engine won't start. What are the solutions and what should a person who finds himself in this situation do? We will talk about Samaras with an injection engine, since there are few carburetor ones left today.

If we are talking about the cold season - you did not start in winter, then there are several nuances regarding the engine starting algorithm. Perhaps your candles have flooded or something else. To study this issue more specifically, read the article: How to start a car in cold weather? Where the algorithm is described and, again, possible causes of the malfunction.

Now we will talk more deeply about the technical part, since “winter factors” are no longer needed.

We will describe the problems in the order of the actions taken: that is, starting from the inserted key and ending with the operation of the engine.

The starter works, the engine turns, but the car does not start

So, the starter, like the engine, the pistons move, but the engine still won’t start. There is already a problem here, most likely in the fuel-air mixture, perhaps the marks have come off, etc.

Before you sin on this, the first thing you need to pay attention to is the crankshaft sensors:

DPKV - if it malfunctions, it is very difficult to start the engine, and once it is running, it runs unevenly, intermittently, and the power drops noticeably.

Next you should pay attention to the labels:

1. Mark on the timing camshaft gear (photo).
2. Markings on the flywheel under the thermostat (photo).

If the marks do not match, most likely the belt has simply slipped by one tooth. The camshaft gear itself may be worn. It needs to be adjusted and installed correctly!

Next we will talk about the air-fuel mixture.

I warn you in advance that the easiest way is to do computer diagnostics of the engine or look at the errors on the on-board computer.

The air-fuel mixture is the combination of air, gasoline, and the spark needed to ignite it.

Air supply

As a rule, a malfunction in the air supply should not affect the engine starting problem. At the very least, the engine should still run. Nevertheless, let's not bypass the air system.

The following sensors are responsible for air metering and supply:

1. Mass air flow sensor is the most expensive sensor. If it fails, then the car simply begins to consume liters of gasoline, then this sensor can simply die “to zero”, but it indirectly affects the starting of the car. This means, no matter how it fails, the car should start.
2. The IAC should not affect the engine starting problem. If it malfunctions, problems arise from idle.

Spark

Here may be the real reasons for our problem:

1. First of all, we look at the candles. We turn them inside out (How to remove candles?) and look at their condition. Normal ones should have a slightly brick color, if they are wet, the candles will flood accordingly. It is necessary to clean and bleed the cylinders by idling the engine with the starter with the spark plugs turned out. If one cylinder is flooded, the problem is local (high-voltage wires, faulty spark plug, injector), all cylinders are flooded - a general problem (ignition coil, brains, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure in the rail).
2. Next, check for the presence of a spark. To check it, check out the following article: How to check the spark?

Examination:

1. If there is no spark on one cylinder, there is a faulty spark plug or high-voltage wire.
2. If it is missing on two adjacent cylinders (1-4 or 2-3), then the problem is in the ignition coil or in the ECU.
3. If there is no spark anywhere, the problem may lie in the ignition coil or ECU, in mismatched timing marks, or inoperative DPKV.
4. If there are no problems with the presence of a spark, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the fuel supply.

Fuel supply

Two points are very important here:

• normal fuel pressure;
• working injectors.

If, when you turn the key into the ignition, you do not hear the fuel pump pumping, then that is where the problem lies. First of all, we measure the pressure in the fuel rail (How to measure pressure?) and draw the appropriate conclusions.

High pressure coupled with a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator can instantly flood the engine.

About spark plug gap

Over time, the gap between the electrodes increases. The normal parameter is from 0.7 mm to one millimeter. You can check this gap using a special feeler gauge.

The same is used for setting valve clearances on carburetor engines. So, if a parameter does not meet the norm, it should be adjusted. To do this, you should use a negative screwdriver. To reduce the gap, press the end of the plug onto the top electrode of the spark plug. With your other hand, hold the part itself. If you “overdid it”, it doesn’t matter – everything can be returned back. To do this, bend the electrode with the edge of a screwdriver (it bends quite easily) and check the distance again. It is worth noting that with a correctly set gap, you can not only ensure trouble-free engine starting, but also reduce fuel consumption by 5 percent. Also the car will run smoothly. After all, the mixture is ignited exactly at the moment when it is necessary. And the last thing is the resource of the candles themselves. If the gap is higher or lower than normal, the risk of breaking through the insulator increases significantly. As for the replacement schedule, it is about 40 thousand kilometers. It is recommended to replace the high-voltage wires along with the spark plugs.

Relays and fuses VAZ-2115

It happens that the car does not start due to a banal failure of the fuses. In this case, the pump will not emit a characteristic hum when the ignition is turned on. The sound should come from under the rear seats. On VAZ-2115 cars the pump is submersible and is located directly in the fuel tank. If there is no hum in the first 3-5 seconds after turning on the ignition, it means that power is not supplied to the element.

We start looking for a break in the fuses. The cover indicates which one is responsible for the electric fuel pump. But not only fuses are checked. The VAZ-2115 is also equipped with a relay. This element should make characteristic clicks when the ignition is turned on. If the VAZ-2115 does not start and clicks are not heard, most likely the pump relay needs to be replaced. Sometimes cleaning contacts helps. For this purpose, special sprays in cans are used. For the future, it is worth purchasing a set of spare relays and fuses. Sometimes such a “childish” breakdown happens on the road. With new parts in stock, you can continue moving without hindrance.

Self-diagnosis

On a VAZ 2115, the owner can do independent diagnostics and find out what errors are stored in the memory of the engine control unit. The procedure is carried out by calling up fault codes on the dashboard or using a diagnostic adapter.

Error code: Nissan Beetle check engine light comes on what is it

To carry out diagnostics on the electronic instrument panel, you must perform a certain sequence of actions:

1. Sit in the driver's seat of the car, insert the key into the ignition and press the daily mileage reset button located on the instrument cluster.
2. Turn the lock key to the ignition switch position.
3. Release the key, starting the self-diagnosis process. Visually, this will look like turning on the backlight, all signal lamps, possible symbols on the LCD screens and testing the instruments (the arrows will move across the entire scale in both directions).
4. Press the key again and release. The second press displays the software version of the instrument cluster on the screen located under the speedometer (inscription like Uer x. x).
5. Press the key again, after which the errors in the memory will be displayed on the screen.

Instrument cluster VAZ 2115, the button is located on the right side of the speedometer

The driver can perform self-diagnosis on the electromechanical panel and the “January-4” control unit according to the following sequence:

1. Turn off the ignition.
2. Open the diagnostic connector cover located on the center console.
3. Connect contact B to the negative terminal of the battery (to the body). Contact A, connected to the engine crankcase, is suitable for this.
4. Turn on the ignition. The “Check Engine” lamp will flash code 12, which means the diagnosis has begun. The light signals are given as follows - a long flash, then a pause (about 2 seconds), two short flashes, a long pause (about 3 seconds). Signal 12 is sent three times. If there is no signal, the diagnostic system is inactive or faulty. After this, the Check Engine light will flash and list the errors in memory. Each code is repeated three times. If there are no errors in the memory, code 12 will continue to be transmitted.

To read controller errors, a special K-Line adapter is used, which is connected to the diagnostic connector using a connector. This connector is located on the center console behind a plastic plug (below the cigarette lighter and ashtray).

The procedure for reading errors is quite simple, you need to:

1. Check the level of process fluids.
2. Open the connector cover and turn on the ignition.
3. Connect the adapter or scanner to the diagnostic socket.
4. Launch the software on the laptop.
5. View available errors in the program dialog box.
6. Decrypt the codes using the program interface or decryption table.
7. Eliminate the causes of malfunctions and re-diagnostics.

The dashboard diagram (Fig. 1.1) includes controls:

1 – lever-switch for headlight or turn signal modes.

2 – nozzle for blowing the front door glass.

3 – instrument cluster.

5 – button to turn off sound signals.

6 – button to turn off the alarm. Pressing the button causes the warning light and direction indicators to flash.

To repeat turning on the starter after a failed start attempt, you need to move the ignition key from position “I” to position “0”, and then again to position “II”.

8 – switch lever for windshield washer and windshield wipers.

9 – immobilizer sensor, transmits a special code from the code key through the immobilizer to the engine control unit.

10 – set of signal lights for the on-board control system. The complex contains (Fig. 1.2): 1 – oil level drop signal; 2 – low level signal in the windshield washer tank; 3 – low coolant level signal; 4 – door open signal;

11 – external lighting switch.

12 – block of keys for turning off fog lights, fog lights, heated rear window.

13 – trip computer, installed on some vehicles, designed to display one of the parameters: current fuel consumption (or average total fuel consumption), average speed, distance traveled, current time, time on the road.

15 – control lamp for anti-lock braking system (ABS). Installed in place of the plug, if equipped with an anti-lock braking system.

16 – airbag control lamp. If the pillow itself is present, it is installed in place of the plug.

18 – cover of the glove box (upper). To use the upper glove compartment while the lower glove compartment lid is open, press the upper lid lock lever. The lock lever is located in the niche of the lower glove compartment on top.

19 – side nozzle of the ventilation and heating systems of the cabin.

20 – glove box cover (lower). To open it, you need to press the lock handle to the handle. If the external lighting is turned on, a special illumination of the inside of the box will automatically work.

21 – magazine shelf.

22 – control panel for interior ventilation and heating systems.

23 – socket for audio equipment. It is planned to install audio equipment that meets international standards in size and mounting principle.

Error code: Location of diagnostic connector block Kia Seed JD (2012=>) - auto manual ordering auto books with delivery anywhere in the world

Watch the video of testing the dashboard of a car here:

Coil

Modern cars are no longer equipped with distributors. There is an ignition module here. VAZ-2115 (16 valves) is no exception. Sometimes breakdowns happen. Because of this, the VAZ-2115 does not start. The reasons are a faulty ignition distributor.

This item cannot be repaired. And in order not to waste time on diagnostics (or if you don’t have a multimeter), it’s worth installing a known-good ignition module. The VAZ-2115 should start without difficulty. Sometimes the high-voltage wires themselves pierce. But in this case the car starts and starts. This can be heard by the characteristic sound of the engine.

Symptoms

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The approximate time that is considered long and for which the engine starts is 5 or 8 seconds. In this case, twitching is definitely observed in the first seconds of operation of the internal combustion engine. At times it seems that the engine is operating on only two cylinders, and not four.

If you press the accelerator before starting, the start will be faster. But at the same time, fuel consumption and engine warm-up time will increase until the speed drops to normal. Another inseparable companion of such a situation is black exhaust.

Obviously, black smoke from the muffler directly indicates that the fuel is not completely consumed and remains in the cylinders.

Catalyst

The catalyst is an important component of a modern car. It is an exhaust gas “filter” that traps unburned fuel residues. Inside it there are honeycombs coated with titanium, which have a very small cross-section. When exhaust gases pass, carbon monoxide settles on the honeycombs and the output is a gas that causes less harm to the environment.

It is quite natural that sooner or later the catalyst becomes clogged and has a lower throughput. The car loses power because it spends energy on removing exhaust gases and the sensor gives too high readings regarding the amount of unburned fuel. It all ends with the engine going into emergency mode and the check light coming on. The problem can only be solved by replacing the faulty element.

The catalyst lasts quite a long time, but there are factors that have a fairly significant influence on this process. One of them is poor fuel quality. To avoid this, try to refuel only at trusted gas stations. Only then can his life be extended.