The Lada Priora window regulator does not work and clicks: causes of malfunction and possible defects in the electronics, diagram and methods of repairing the system yourself

July 29, 2015 Lada.Online 299 166 183

Owners of Lada Priora have to periodically deal with malfunctions of power windows (ESP). In some cases, the problem lies in some small detail that can be easily fixed with your own hands; in other cases, you will have to contact a service center to repair the ESP. We decided to look into the main reasons why power windows do not work.

Completeness

Power window R153-02 rear right

Power window R153-03 rear left

Car owners of the model of the same name would do well to know what it means to install rear windows on a Lada Priora

– more precisely, to have at least general information about the complex of works united by this concept. We will try to clearly describe the process, noting some related points that will undoubtedly bring practical benefits to domestic motorists.

Installing rear windows on a Priora has a number of specific features. But first things first.

Replacing the window regulator and its motor

This article will consider this type of Priora repair, such as replacing the electric window mechanism assembled with the motor. Of course, if your electric motor has failed, then there is no need to change the entire mechanism. Regarding the motor, it will be shown below how to change it.

Necessary tool for replacing the window regulator on a Priora

10 mm head
Extension
Ratchet or crank

How to remove the front window lift mechanism assembly

The first step is to perform a procedure such as removing the front door trim. After this, unscrew the two bolts securing the glass to the bracket on the lift. The bolts will only be accessible when the glass is raised up. This is clearly shown in the photo below.

To prevent the glass from falling down during this repair, it is necessary to fix it by placing something between it and the inside of the door. Next, you can unscrew all the power window mounting nuts.

This mechanism is attached in several places:

from above, in the place where the glass is fixed, and also a little higher in the very corner of the structure
below also in the corner
and closer to the center of the door where the motor is installed - there are three nuts

Then disconnect the plug with the power wires by simply pulling both ends to the sides with a little force.

Next, we lower the structure so that the motor appears in a special opening:

It is through this that the entire structure should be removed from the door, which will be clearly shown in the photo.

And we remove it completely out so that further manipulations can be carried out.

Replacing the window lift motor of Lada Priora

As mentioned above, the most common reason is the failure of the electric motor. And in this paragraph we will consider the procedure for replacing it. First, you need to turn the mechanism over so that the pins are facing us.

Turn out all three studs
Using a flat-head screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing the motor housing to the window regulator.
We separate the two parts of the structure and install the new electric motor in place

Video review of replacing front electric windows on a Priora

This video is embedded from my YouTube channel.

I hope that the replacement process is shown in the most accessible and understandable way!

The price of the motor is from 600 rubles, but for the entire assembled mechanism you will have to pay at least 1000 rubles. The Priora has lifts from the VAZ 2110, so you shouldn’t look for “Prior” ones.

How to replace the heater fan on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172?

Removal: 1) There are two ways by which you can remove the stove fan, we will tell you both, but before we start describing them, let’s talk about them briefly, and which one you will use during the work is up to you to decide, the first method is in removing the throttle assembly, in removing the front panel upholstery and in removing the cooling expansion tank, the second method does not imply this; when choosing the second method, you will only need to unscrew the screws and nuts securing the fan and then remove it from the car.

Note! It would seem that the second method is much more convenient and faster, in fact it is, it is done much faster but is very inconvenient, because in this case you will have to get to hard-to-reach nuts, as well as hard-to-reach screws, etc. etc., while when carrying out the second method, you will no longer need to crawl to hard-to-reach places, all the nuts and screws will be before your eyes, but you will still spend more time, because you will remove other parts that are in the first way and you won’t need to touch it!

2) After you have decided and made your choice, go to work; at the beginning of the operation, in any case, you will need to remove the windshield lining (How to remove the lining, read the article: “Replacing the cabin filter on a LADA Priore”), then the block Disconnect the wires and the connector from each other (They are indicated by a red arrow) and remove the wire block from the additional resistor (It is connected to it, this block is indicated in both photographs by a blue arrow), these are all general operations and will need to be carried out in any case.

3) Read this point only if you are carrying out the second method, but if you don’t want to remove anything unnecessary and if you are not going to do the work using the second method, then in this case go straight to point 4, so about the second method, if it First, you will need to remove the throttle assembly (How to do this, read the article: “Replacing the throttle assembly on a car”), but only when you remove it, do not disconnect any hoses, but simply unscrew the nuts that secure the assembly to the receiver and then remove it, and as soon as the assembly is removed, proceed to removing the dashboard upholstery, to do this, use a screwdriver to loosen the screw that secures the steam removal hose to the cooling expansion tank (This is the tank into which coolant needs to be poured, you will immediately find it), loosening the screw, disconnect the hose from the tank and lead it through the hole in the upholstery (see photo 1), then lift the expansion tank and without disconnecting any other hoses from it, carefully move it, otherwise it will interfere with removing the upholstery, then again, use a screwdriver to unscrew it but this once the lower screw, which secures the upholstery (see. photo 2) and the left part of the upholstery (look as the car is moving) remove from the car, then find three clamps that are attached to the clamps and secure the vacuum brake booster hose so that it does not dangle, and so, overcoming the force of the clamps, remove them from the brackets ( see photo 3), immediately after which, using a socket wrench or wrench, unscrew the nut that secures the steering rack screen in the upper part (see photo 4), as soon as the nut is unscrewed, pull this metal screen and remove it from the top the studs and finally the right (last part) of the upholstery (see photo 5) from the car and bend up the end of the brake pedal bracket (see photo 6).

4) Now unscrew the three screws and one side nut securing the heater on the right; if your upholstery has been removed, then it will be very convenient for you, after unscrewing, pull the heater out of the place where it is installed outward so that you can remove the heater fan.

5) After the heater has been removed a sufficient distance, unscrew the three screws securing the fan (Two of them are indicated by red arrows in the photo and they are already almost unscrewed), disconnect the electric motor ventilation hose from it (Indicated by a blue arrow) and then remove the fan (If if necessary, then use a flat screwdriver to pry it up from the bottom), as shown in the small photo, but just keep in mind one fact: when you put a new or old (It doesn’t matter) fan in its place, install it in such a way that the ventilation hose of the electric motor which is indicated by the blue arrow, looked towards the branch pipe that is present on the stove fan; if you install the fan on the wrong side, then simply do not connect this hose to the branch pipe, but it must be put on the stove fan branch pipe.

Note! If you have not removed the throttle assembly and the front panel upholstery, then it will simply not be very convenient for you to unscrew the screws and nuts securing the heater and you will also have to work hard to remove the heater to a sufficient distance, thanks to which you can replace the fan, but this is possible for some people So they replace the stove fan with a new one!

Installation: Reinstallation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, do not forget about the cabin filter, if it is too dirty, replace it with a new one.

Additionally It’s better to watch it so that all unnecessary doubts and questions disappear.

Replacing the heater radiator on a LADA Priora (with and without air conditioning)

One of the reasons why the heater does not work well is the heater radiator. During the operation of the car, it begins to leak and is no longer able to transfer the required amount of heat to the interior. Depending on the year of manufacture and configuration of the LADA Priora, the process of removing the heater (radiator) can vary greatly.

Removing and installing the Priora stove motor.

how to remove the interior heater motor Priora 217230 1 part.

READ How to remove the gear knob on a Chevrolet Cruze

The whole procedure took several hours. This is shown in more detail in

There is another way to replace it. To gain access to the heater radiator, instead of the heater housing, it is necessary to remove the vacuum brake booster along with the brake pedal. This allows access to the left side of the heater (in the direction of travel) and to the radiator itself.

Replacing the Priora stove motor

Replacing the heater fan on a VAZ Priora with your own hands.

Instead of introducing

Window lifters (or, to use a more familiar word, “window lifters”), as the name suggests, are designed to raise/lower windows.

The option under consideration refers to the electric window lifter

(although in a number of models only mechanical ones are provided for rear windows), i.e. manipulations with the side windows are carried out using electrical energy.

It is convenient and practical, creating additional comfort for the driver and passengers

It is pleasant to note that domestic manufacturers paid due attention to this indicator

Removal and installation instructions

To carry out the work you will need a “10” wrench and plastic or wooden wedges

It is important to know how to remove the window regulator on the front doors; dismantling and installation of the rear window regulators on the Priora is carried out in the same way

The procedure consists of the following steps:

First of all, for safety reasons, it is necessary to de-energize the car by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
Next, the door trim is removed.
Then you need to raise or lower the glass so that there is access through the upper door opening to the bolts with which the glass frame is attached to the device slide. These bolts should be unscrewed.
At the next stage, you should lift the glass up to the end with your hands and secure its position with the help of prepared wedges.
Then you need to disconnect the block with the wiring harness from the window lifting mechanism.
After this, the nuts are unscrewed, thanks to which the gearmotor is held in place.
Then the fastening nuts of the device guide are unscrewed.
When all the nuts are unscrewed, the window regulator is removed through the technological hole. When removing the glass lifting mechanism, you need to ensure that the glass is securely fixed.
Installation of the device is carried out in the reverse order.

1. Window lifting mechanism Lada

2. Front door without trim

3. Unscrewing the gearmotor mounting nuts

Installing a glass closer

The power windows available on the Lada Priora are limited in their functions. They are inconvenient because they raise or lower the windows only when you hold down the security mode button. This creates some inconvenience when you turn off the ignition in a hurry, get out of the car and suddenly remember that you didn’t close the windows in the car.

Again, you need to do all the procedures in reverse order: insert the key into the ignition, press the power window buttons. Or you can completely forget that the windows are left open, and then uninvited guests can get into the car.

First, remove 2 nuts on the door trim near the driver. Then we lift the plastic clips and free the car threshold from the lining. Carefully remove the noise and temperature insulating materials and get to the power window connector shown in the figure. Be sure to ensure that all openings in the car, on the side of the body, are closed. Next, you need to disconnect the existing connector and install the connector of our new device.. Read more: How to replace the fuel filter on a Renault Sandero yourself

Read more: How to replace the fuel filter on a Renault Sandero yourself

This is all that needs to be done to install the power window closer on the Lada Priora. Now you don’t have to worry that when you turn off the ignition in your car, the window glass will remain down. The closer will do his job.

By the way, according to experts, it is not necessary to start replacing the control unit. Simple testing will help determine the real reason:

See if the lock that controls how the power window control unit works in the Lada Priora is functioning correctly. If the lock is acting up, you need to check the plus or minus on the wire.
It would be a good idea to check the condition of the fuse. To do this, connect the adjustment bulb to the body of the Lada Priora and see how the windows move in different directions. The same actions are carried out with a positively charged wire, and then with wiring numbers 1, 5, 11, 13. If the light always lights up, the fault is not in the unit. Most likely, some wire has been crushed or the electric drive has failed.

Overview of General Concepts

Installing rear power windows on a Priora is clearly not within the capabilities of every driver who decides to install it themselves or replace a failed device with their own hands. Before installing these devices in a car, you need to have at least approximate knowledge of the operating procedure and the principle of operation of the device itself. Without this, proper repair of the window regulator is impossible. The electric window mechanism is installed inside the doors. Priora's window regulators consist of an electric motor, a drive and an electronic control unit. According to the ESP design, it can be:

cable (most common);
plank;
rack and pinion

In some configurations of the Lada Priora, factory rear ESPs are installed, which does not eliminate the need for knowledge about their design. Replacing a window regulator is a problem that comes up unexpectedly, so it's best to be prepared for it in advance.

As some car owners have found out, in order to install power windows, you need to be able to understand electrical wiring and have a lot of patience. In particular, in the 2008 Priora, it was discovered that the rear door wiring was not completely routed, which seriously complicates the work. In addition, the operation of standard ESPs with the ignition off is impossible, even if you insert a jumper into the desired relay.

There are many sets of rear lifts on sale that are compatible with the VAZ-2110, Granta and Priora. The cost of the kit can reach 3,500 rubles, depending on the type of design and manufacturer. Installation of equipment at the service will cost approximately the same amount. Many VAZ 2170 Priora owners sooner or later face the problem of failure of standard power windows. There are two common reasons:

Broken cable.
Electric drive failure.

The work of standard window closers also causes criticism, due to which the car is often left wide open. They also resort to replacing them quite often.

What is the cause of the problem

Sometimes there is no malfunction as such. For example, window regulators may fail in severe frost, but other electrics also suffer from similar problems. Therefore, experts advise not to save on buying/renting and heating a garage. But mechanical failures are much more common.

If you suspect a breakdown, you first need to check the TsBKE - this is AvtoVAZ’s personal innovation, which operates the electrical package. First you need to make sure the fuse is working. If everything is fine, we disassemble the doors, arm ourselves with a multimeter and measure the voltage at the terminals of the window lift motor. If there is no voltage, then:

There may be a malfunction of the power window control unit (the button for opening and closing the window located on the door).
The problem lies in the connection of the wire connectors.
CBKE refused.

The window lift motor is stuck or stuck.
The window lift cable has already outlived its usefulness and needs to be replaced.
Distortion of the glass itself, while the rest of the system is in full working order.

All of the above breakdowns occur with approximately equal frequency, with the exception of glass distortion, which occurs much less frequently.

Self-detecting a broken power window can be seriously difficult. First, it is difficult to diagnose a CBCE problem. The device is designed in such a way that one of the cables is multifunctional. It could be:

X1-4.
X1-6.

The essence of multifunctionality lies in the fact that some conductors are capable of independently changing polarity if the appropriate command is received from the CBKE. These pairs can simultaneously control side mirrors, central locking, provide power, etc.

To diagnose a malfunction of the CBKE, it is necessary to perform the X1-4 or X1-6 test, which is multifunctional on a specific vehicle. In this case, you should also press the window up/down button. If the multimeter detects the presence of electricity when the button is activated, then everything is fine. You also need to check sockets No. 1, No. 5, No. 11 and No. 13. If in all cases the presence of current and correct operation of the system are noted, it means that the reason does not lie in the CBKE.

As for the power window control unit, you most likely will not be able to identify the fault yourself. The fact is that it ensures the operation of all such devices in the car, which means you can call it as much as you like, but it will be very difficult to confirm the fact of its failure and find out where exactly it failed. The only real way out in such a situation is to contact specialists at a service station. With a high probability, it will not be possible to do without diagnostic equipment.

Repair is determined by the specific malfunction and is not always possible at home. If we are talking about skewed glass or poor conductor contact, this is not a problem. You can also replace a worn-out window lift cable yourself; you just need to purchase a new one at the nearest car market. If the problem lies in the power window control unit or in the CBKE, then you cannot do without contacting a service center. In this case, independent electronic repair is impossible.

July 29, 2015 219,652

Why is everything so difficult?

It would seem that we only need to manage the locks. Why then connect to the window lift motors?

The opening of the passenger doors is carried out by the second impulse (relay K1 is activated). And elements K2 and K3 at this moment block the power windows. If they are not blocked, the windows in the doors will lower during the entire control pulse. And even in 0.8 seconds they will open noticeably.

Of course, connecting the signaling system in a Priora is more difficult than in many domestic cars. At the same time, the “Grant” in the “Norma” configuration uses a similar scheme. Be that as it may, the Lada Priora is the flagship of VAZ. And probably, difficulties with the electrical part should not confuse a competent car owner. It is also known that the standard control unit can be reprogrammed, and then unlocking occurs in one step. In this case, the connection is made according to “Scheme 1”.

Priora window lift diagram

Priora window lift diagram, connection features

Despite the fact that the window lifters are controlled in the same way as on previous models, the design of the Priora's window lifters is somewhat different. There is no power window unit on the Priora. The power windows are controlled by the electrical package controller. This was done for ease of control of electric windows.

To completely open and close the glass, you no longer need to hold down the key, but simply press it briefly. If you hold the button for a while, the window lifter will work until the button is released. The buttons in this case do not switch the circuit, as on previous models, but are a kind of sensors for the electronic unit.

Connecting the driver's door power windows is somewhat different from the connection in the passenger doors. This is due to the use of an all control module in the driver's door.

When you turn on any button on the block, a corresponding signal is generated from it, which is transmitted to the electrical package control controller via the wire connecting pin 5 of the driver's door block with pin 5 of block 3 of the double-glazed window control unit.

When troubleshooting without using diagnostic equipment, you can check the integrity or short to ground of the wire through which the signal passes and the presence of power on the driver's door module unit.

In addition to the use of electronic units in the Priora window lifter circuit, there is a feature of supplying power to the electric drive. One of the wires is multifunctional and is involved in supplying power to the heating and mirror control, as well as to the door lock solenoid.

Therefore, this wire can have either a plus or a minus, depending on which consumer is turned on. The value is controlled by the electrical package controller. On the right and left sides of the wire, pins 4 and 6 are connected separately to connector X1, respectively.

This property can be used to troubleshoot a circuit.

Priora power window diagram troubleshooting

How to find a fault in the Priora power window diagram if the passenger door power windows do not work? A malfunction of the power windows of all doors is unlikely and the reason for this will most likely be a malfunction of the electronic control unit for the power accessories.

A malfunction of the electric lifter in one of the doors is a very common breakdown, especially on early cars. And it is again associated with a malfunction of the unit, and in particular the burnout of the microcircuits that control the operation of the electric drive. The reason was a flaw in the circuit design by the manufacturer.

For the same reason, the window lifts could work jerkily. Subsequently, the block manufacturer corrected the defect, but failure of the block is still the main malfunction at the moment.

It is best to start troubleshooting by checking the functionality of the door lock on which the lift does not work. If the lock also does not work, then you need to check the presence of power or negative on the wire from the glass unit control unit, connector X1, pin 4 or 6, depending on which side you are looking for the fault.

To do this, connect the test lamp to the car body and turn on the power window in one direction or the other. Then connect the test lamp to the positive wire and repeat the operation. It is also worth checking conclusions 1, 5, 11, 13.

If the control lamp lights up in all cases, then the control unit is working properly and most likely there is a broken wire on the door or a malfunction of the electric drive. To check, you need to remove the door trim and connect a test lamp between the wires going to the electric drive.

If the foot lights up when you turn on the lift, then the electric drive is faulty, otherwise the wire is broken. If the unit malfunctions, it is necessary to find out the cause. This could be not only a manufacturing defect, but also a short circuit between the wires or to the housing.

Additional block

Additional relays are mounted on a bar and located under the dashboard, near the front passenger's feet. To get to them, you need to remove the right tunnel lining. Next to the additional relays is the electronic engine control unit (ECU).

If its connector interferes with access to the relay, disconnect it by first removing the negative terminal from the battery.

Circuit breakers

F1 (15 A) – main relay circuit, starter blocking.

F2 (7.5 A) – power circuit of the electronic control unit (ECU).

F3 (15 A) – electric fuel pump. If the fuel pump has stopped pumping (this can be determined by the absence of a sound when the ignition is turned on), check together with relay K2. There may also be problems with the immobilizer, it blocks the pump, see information about F20. If the wiring, this fuse and the relay are good, most likely the fuel pump itself has failed. To remove it, you need to disconnect the battery, remove the rear seat cushion, unscrew the cover, ring and fuel hoses, then carefully remove the entire fuel pump.

K1 – main relay.

K2 – electric fuel pump relay. See above about F3.

Replacing power windows on a Priora

Why doesn't the power window work on the Priora? In fact, there are many reasons for this malfunction, ranging from a blown fuse to failure of the electric motor itself. In some cases it can be repaired, but everything must be dismantled first. Do you know how to remove the window regulator on a Priora with your own hands?

Removing the front power windows

You will need: remove the door trim and prepare the head “at 10”. Procedure:

Fix the glass so that you can access the glass fastening bolts through the top hole of the door. Unscrew these two bolts with a 10mm socket.
Disconnect the block with the Priora ESP wires.
Unscrew the seven nuts securing the window regulator to the door using a 10mm socket.
Remove the power window through the upper access hole.

Installation of window regulators on Priora is carried out in the reverse order.

Removing rear power windows

You will need: remove the door trims and prepare the “10” and “8” heads. Procedure:

Fix the glass so that you can access the glass fastening bolts through the top hole of the door. Unscrew these two bolts with a 10mm socket.
Unscrew the three nuts securing the window regulator to the door using a 8mm socket.
Unscrew the two nuts securing the window lifter guide using a 10mm socket.
Remove the Priora window regulator through the technological hole.

Installation of the rear window regulators is carried out in the reverse order. By the way, do you know how to install a window closer on a Priora?

Keywords:

priors doors
Priors window regulators

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How to replace the heater fan on a VAZ 2170-VAZ 2172?

READ How to change the boot on a Kalina grenade

Installation: Reinstallation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, do not forget about the cabin filter, if it is too dirty, replace it with a new one.

Additionally It’s better to watch it so that all unnecessary doubts and questions disappear.

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Causes of malfunction

Minor malfunctions or breakdowns can occur for various reasons:

After an accident. If the blow hit the side door. It can manifest itself either in the incorrect operation of the window regulator or in the complete failure of this unit.
If exposed to moisture or dampness. Of course, the car door is sufficiently sealed. But in some cases, the electrical components of the power window short out due to condensation or the car being in deep water for a long time.
Installation of low-quality or defective components.

Let's look at the most common problems.

Electrical faults

Electrical faults are the simplest because they are the easiest to fix. Electrical failures can occur due to:

Poor contact on the opening control button/relay. Most often this is observed when there is insufficient contact in the switching device. Oxidized or erased power pads on the board do not conduct current in the circuit. The window regulator begins to twitch or fails altogether.
Wire shorts. The door has moving elements. The wiring in these places may fray or break. The power goes out and the glass stops going up and down.
Fuse blown. If there is a sudden jump in the car's circuit, the fuse located in the window regulator circuit may burn out.
Motor/gearbox malfunction. There can be many reasons for this: from burnout and sticking of the brushes, to oxidation of the contact group on the motor.

For any type of malfunction, it is worth carrying out diagnostics at a specialized service station. But first you should check the power window fuses. Most often, the cause of the breakdown lies in this place.

Mechanical defects of the mechanism

Mechanical defects occur much more often than electrical ones. They can also cause the window regulator to break. The most common mechanical failures:

Broken cable. A rare malfunction. With such a defect, the glass “falls” into the door frame and does not rise from the button.
Bent arms or guides. In this case, the work jams or the button is completely ignored.
Reducer gear failure. Modern cars are often equipped with plastic gears that quickly wear out, crack or crumble. The teeth begin to slip. The glass jerks or rises jerkily.
Sticking or jamming of the mechanism due to lack of lubrication. A common “sore” on old cars. The resource of mechanics is not infinite; it also requires careful treatment and timely maintenance. Over the years of operation, machine lubricant on moving parts dries out. The parts begin to rub against each other and jam together.

The listed defects can only be repaired on a disassembled door. In this case, you will need to purchase additional damaged or broken components.

Other causes of power window failure

Sometimes the glass stops opening normally for reasons that are unclear at first glance. This may happen due to:

Severe frost. Condensation forms in a warm interior. At night the car cools down, and in frosty weather the accumulated moisture forms ice where the glass meets the door. An ice crust may also form inside the lifting mechanism. All this leads to difficulties in the operation of the window regulators.
A foreign object gets into the gap between the glass and the door. In this case, the window regulator becomes stuck.

In 80% of cases, any mechanical or electrical malfunction is eliminated with a disassembled door.

Wiring diagram of power windows of Lada Priora

The search for the problem should begin by checking the correct operation of the door lock, inside which the lift has stopped working. If the lock also refuses to work, you need to check whether there is a minus or power from the glass unit control module, connector X1, pin 4 and (or) 6, depending on the malfunction of the board. Connect the warning lamp to the car body while simultaneously pressing any button on the power window. Repeat the operation again, but with the positive wire. Make sure that pins 1, 13, 5 and 11 are working correctly. If the control lamp lights up in all cases, it means there are no problems with the operation of the control unit. Most likely, there is a problem in the electric drive, or a break in the wiring. After removing the casing, connect the control ramp between the two wires that go to the electric drive. If the lamp starts to light when the up/down button is turned on, this means that there is a problem with the electric drive. Otherwise, you are dealing with a broken wire.

Compared to the passenger windows, the driver's window uses a slightly different scheme. This is due to the fact that the driver can control all modules in the cabin at once. Without using diagnostic equipment, the driver can check the short or continuity to ground of the wire that supplies the signal, as well as power to the driver's door module.

The control panel is located on the interior handle

The window regulator on the Priora is used to raise or lower the windows in the car. The mechanism is installed inside the car doors either in a special subframe or by attaching it to the car body.

The design of the window regulator includes:

drive (combined electric motor unit, worm, gear);
window lifting mechanism;
Control block.

LADA PRIORA 21723

Assignment of contacts of the instrument cluster block

1 To the electric power steering 2 To the hazard warning lamp 3 To the emergency oil pressure sensor 4 To the parking brake switch 5 To the immobilizer control unit 6 To the airbag control unit 7 To the exterior lighting switch 8 To the turn signal switch (starboard side) 9 To the indicator switch turn (left side) 10 To the fuel injection system control unit 11 To the front passenger airbag deactivation sensor 12 To the seat belt sensor not fastened 13 To the control unit of the electronic brake force distributor 14 To the “RESET” button on the steering column switch (-) 15 To the level sensor brake fluid 16 To the anti-lock brake system control sensor 17 To the headlight high beam switch 18 To the instrument cluster lighting switch 19 Housing 20 To terminal “30” of the battery 21 To terminal “15” of the ignition switch 22 To the fuel consumption sensor 23 To the function switching mode key trip computer in a ring forward and changing the minutes (-) 24 To the mode key for switching the functions of the trip computer in a ring back and setting the clock (-) 25 To the outside temperature sensor (-) 26 To the outside temperature sensor (+) 27 To the fuel level sensor 28 To speed sensor 29 To coolant temperature sensor 30 Low-voltage tachometer input 31 Diagnostics during production of instrument cluster 32 To terminal “L” of generator relay regulator

List of elements of the electrical connection diagram of the rear wiring harness of LADA PRIORA

1 – rear wiring harness block to the instrument panel wiring harness block; 2 – rear wiring harness block to additional wiring harness block 2 (left rear door); 3 – rear wiring harness block to side door wiring harness block (right front door); 4 – left side direction indicator; 5 – electrical package controller; 6 – right side direction indicator; 7 – interior lighting unit; 8 – handbrake warning lamp switch; 9 – left lamp; 10 – right lamp; 11 – interior air temperature sensor; 12 – interior lamp switch in the driver’s door pillar; 13 – switch for the interior lighting in the pillar of the right front door; 14 – switch for the interior lighting in the pillar of the right rear door; 15 – interior light switch in the left rear door pillar; 16 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the wiring harness of the side doors 2 (left front door); 17 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the additional wiring harness (right rear door); 18 – blocks of the rear wiring harness to the rear right loudspeaker; 19 – blocks of the rear wiring harness to the rear left loudspeaker; 20 – cigarette lighter; 21 – electric fuel pump module; 22, 23 – rear wiring harness blocks to instrument panel wiring harness blocks 2,3; 24 – trunk lighting; 25 – additional brake signal; 26 – trunk lock drive switch; 27 – interior lamp; 28 – rear wiring harness block to the front wiring harness block; 29 – left rear speed sensor; 30 – right rear speed sensor; 31 – sensor for automatic glass cleaning system (rain sensor); 32 – rain sensor sensitivity regulator; 33 – rear wiring harness block to instrument panel wiring harness block 4; 34 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the wiring harness of the parking system sensors; 35 – alarm unit for safe parking system; 36 – driver’s seat belt pretensioner; 37 – passenger seat belt pretensioner; 38 – rear wiring harness block to side door wiring harness block 3 (right front door); 39 – airbag control unit; 40 – parking system control unit; 41 – block of the rear wiring harness to the block of the rear additional wiring harness (tailgate); 42 – rear wiring harness block to rear additional wiring harness block 2 (tailgate); 43 – left seat heater; 44 – switch for electric seat heaters; 45 – right seat heater. 46 – rear wiring harness block to the parking system switch.