If a problem with the window regulator on a VAZ-2114 occurs while the car is moving, and the driver himself cannot correct the situation on the spot, you need to call a tow truck. The movement of a car when the window has stopped going up or down due to a breakdown, from the point of view of traffic regulations, threatens the safety of passengers and the driver himself. Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? There are many reasons: lowering is difficult because the fuse has blown, there is a malfunction in the door, etc. This article contains information about the types of failures of window regulators on the VAZ-2114, about methods for adjusting and dismantling the mechanism.
Device classification
Window lifters on the VAZ-2114 are standard for other models of the Samara series. They are classified by drive type into:
- mechanical;
- electric.
The latter are divided depending on the method of transmission of the motor impulse:
- lever;
- rack and pinion;
- cable
By type of construction:
- collapsible;
- whole.
Each model has its own advantages, disadvantages and price. Standard configurations of window lifting mechanisms on the VAZ-2114 consist of two types. Electric drive mechanisms are installed in front, while the rear doors are equipped with mechanical devices.
A little theory
Electric windows have long been used by car enthusiasts; they have significantly increased the level of comfort in the car. Naturally, like everything else, this innovation was put into practice by foreign manufacturers. The domestic auto industry picked up this idea much later.
Speaking abstractly, in terms of build quality, foreign manufacturers are head and shoulders above the Russian auto industry (however, there are significant differences in prices, service and components).
What does it mean? Everything is very simple
, a connoisseur of Russian cars will have to constantly struggle with minor (and not always minor) problems that arise, such as broken window regulators.
If your car was equipped with power windows with mechanical handles, then the cause of the breakdown is easy to find. Most likely, someone, driver or passenger, exerted extra effort and the mechanism gave way. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the car door from the inside; I remove all the trim.
If the electric lift does not work, then everything is also quite simple. The door on which a similar problem occurred should be disassembled in a similar way. The mechanism of electric window lifts consists of a non-separable motor, which can simply burn out and require replacement. There is also a cable with a bar coming from it. Before replacing, of course, it is necessary to check whether an electrical signal is received by the motor.
Perhaps the reason lies not in the mechanism itself
, but let’s say, in a faulty button, or in other electrical equipment. It is necessary to check the fuses that are located under the steering wheel on the right (under the cover, read more in the car user manual).
Fuse F5 is usually responsible for power windows. If the fuse is intact, then use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the motor terminals. To do this, you can use a regular 12V light bulb.
No voltage?
It is necessary to carefully check the wiring coming from the motor, inspect the relay and control unit. Very often, auto mechanics have to see problems with the button that controls the window regulator. Don't fix it, if it's the problem, just replace it.
It's not expensive and won't cause headaches in the future. If there is voltage on the motor, but it does not work, most likely the drive brush is stuck. You can solve this problem by pressing the button and turning the motor axis. If the cable breaks, it needs to be completely replaced.
As you can see, everything is quite simple. The reasons why the window regulator on a VAZ 2114 does not work are very trivial and only require attention. Even a beginner can cope with their solution.
The most common reasons why the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work
There is no point in arguing that power windows significantly increase the operating comfort of a car. But most drivers also know that they cause a lot of trouble. By the way, when it comes to the breakdown of the mechanism, we must not forget that the problem may not be in it, but in the glass itself. Over time, the holder or seals wear out, which often leads to a banal misalignment, which significantly impedes the freedom of movement of the glass.
The design of the window lifting mechanism is quite simple, but not reliable. And the fact that the safety block is placed in a place where moisture and dirt can easily get in is also not a plus. As you know, the slightest wear of the insulation can lead to a short circuit and breakdown of the entire system.
The most common reasons why a window regulator fails are the following:
- Damage to the components of the control unit.
- The contacts have oxidized and the circuit has opened.
- Disconnecting the power supply.
- The control button has stopped performing its functions.
Yes, most often car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that this component of the window regulator fails.
Tracks or contacts in the mounting block
Another reason may be a broken contact of the mechanism relay in the mounting block.
Considering the circuit of the mounting block, we can conclude that a constant plus comes to pin 30 through a fuse, and when we turn on the ignition, we apply another plus to pin 85. As a result of turning on the ignition, an electromagnetic field appears, which closes pins 30 and 87, which provides power to window lift buttons.
This means that if the operation of the plus on the ignition switch is disrupted, the contacts stop closing, even if the relay is in working condition. You can check this by closing contacts 30 and 87 directly, then the plus will come without the ignition switch and if the problem is in it, then the power windows will work.
The video demonstrates another solution to this problem:
But there may also be the opposite situation, that we do not have a constant positive supply to pin 30, and when we turn the ignition key, the contacts close, but nothing happens. In this case, it is best to ring the contact with a tester and find out whether there is constant voltage. For testing, you can connect the plus directly to pin 87, but this is not safe, since the wire will go outside the fuse.
Broken power window button
Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? A very common reason for this is that its buttons fail. If the mechanism begins to work at a slow speed after a certain time, the plates inside it may have oxidized. This caused a breakdown in contact: it appears intermittently or disappears completely.
It makes sense to check the version with a broken button, replacing it with a working one. Just swap them. The part is dismantled using a knife or screwdriver. Use the tip to pry it from below and remove it from the chip.
If after installation it turns out that the non-working window regulator began to move the glass, and the working one began to move, on the contrary, then it is worth purchasing a new part and replacing it. If the problem is not with the button, then you need to continue searching for the causes of the breakdown.
Missing mass
Weight can also be the cause of a power window not working. Its connection location is not the best; it is located at the driver’s feet on the left near the door. Oxidation often occurs there, causing contact to be lost and the mechanism to stop working.
One contact receives both the mass of the central locking and the window regulator. Therefore, the problem can be diagnosed by the failure of the security system, but it is better to visually evaluate the contact for the formation of oxidation and rust.
If you find that the mass is not in good condition, you should clean the contact area and the terminals themselves with sandpaper, then assemble them and treat them with a special compound that will prevent the appearance of various impurities and protect the metal.
Relay
One of the reasons for the breakdown of the glass door lift mechanism may be that the relay does not work or the fuse has blown.
- Find the safety block under the hood of the car.
- According to the diagram, determine the location of the relay itself and the fuse, which make up the links of the electric glass lifting mechanism (ESM) chain.
- The legs of the elements must be clean, with a pronounced metallic sheen.
- If traces of oxidation, dirt deposits, etc. are found, you need to clean them off. Mechanically or using special means, for example, WD-40.
- You can check the relay for functionality in the same way as a button. The working element should be removed from another unit and mounted into the ESP system.
- If newly installed parts fail again within a short period of time, then the problem is in the wiring itself.
A breakdown may occur with the lift motor. It either burns out completely, or the worm mechanism inside it fails. In the latter case, the device makes a characteristic sound when the button is pressed, but the glass remains motionless.
The reason for the breakdown of the ESP may be that it has a common power source and the external lighting. And if the fuse for the foglights is blown out, the window regulator will not work.
Causes of malfunction and their elimination
It often happens that the wipers do not respond to switching modes. If you turn on the wipers and when you switch the lever you do not hear the sounds of the electric motor or the clicks of the relay, the reason may be hidden in three places:
- switch;
- relay;
- fuse.
In such a situation, you first need to check the functionality of the fuse. It is located on the circuit board designated F5. You can check its working condition using a conventional tester. You also need to check the bimetallic fuse located in the purifier gearbox. If the wipers on a VAZ-2114 stop working in winter, there is most likely one reason - severe frost. The same fuse prevents the windshield wiper from turning on in case of overheating or freezing of the blades to the windshield.
Next, you need to check the relay (“short circuit” on the circuit board). You need to find it and temporarily replace it with a new breaker, and then check the operation of the wipers. If the windshield wiper does not function, we continue to look for the problem area. It is quite difficult to independently verify the operation of the switch. It consists of a complex structure, so it is easier to change it than to try to repair it. If the turn signal refuses to work together with the windshield wiper, the problem area is the switch located under the steering wheel.
Situations
There are situations where power windows stop working under repeated circumstances.
For example, after driving on a dirt road or bumps, the mechanism begins to move the glass in jerks. When opening the casing, it is sometimes discovered that the wire has come out of the chip or from the connector, or after visiting a car wash, incidents begin with the glass. Perhaps the depressurization of the insulation contributed to the fact that moisture penetrated into the electrical components of the system and short circuits or disruption of communication between contacts began. Chafing of the insulating layer of the wiring is one of the most common causes of problems with ESP. To facilitate diagnosis, it is worth observing what causes the standard fuse F6 to blow.
- If this moment is the activation of the lift itself, then, most likely, this place is somewhere under the door trim.
- If then, when you turn on the ignition, then it is worth checking the insulation of the wires from the door to the safety assembly block.
One of the weak points is where the bundle of wires goes from under the hood to the door trim.
Fuse
When problems appear with the operation of the mechanism, the first thing to check is the condition of fuses F5 and F16 . F5 is the fifth from the top on the left, and F16 is the bottom on the right. They are responsible for the operation of the window lift mechanism on the car. F1 may affect the operation of the power windows .
Remember, the element cannot burn out just like that; this usually happens when the wire is short-circuited to body ground. If during replacement the new protective element also burns out, you need to inspect the entire system wiring diagram.
Dismantling the old unit
If the electrical elements have been more or less decided, then the mechanical part of the problem is much more complicated. The described VAZ models have non-separable ESP structures. They are characterized as the most reliable, but in case of breakdown they require a complete replacement from the owner.
How the structure is dismantled.
- Remove the handle and rod.
- Lowering the glass, remove the holder.
- The glass is raised to the maximum and secured with tape.
- Unscrew all the nuts holding the mechanism to the door.
- Dismantling is complete and the device can be completely removed for diagnostics.
Next, you will decide whether to repair or replace with a new device.
Repair
To troubleshoot problems with the wipers on your VAZ 2109, it is not at all necessary to contact a service station. The work can be done with your own hands, saving a decent amount of money.
Repair consists of performing several operations:
- Disassembling the unit;
- Troubleshooting;
- Eliminating the causes of purifier failures;
- Reassembly.
Dismantling
The first step is to learn how to remove windshield wipers. This will give you access to the device and all its components.
It is enough to follow the specified sequence of actions and first familiarize yourself with the wiper diagram in order to do everything correctly.
Scheme
- First, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to de-energize the car.
- Remove the brush arms by moving them to a vertical position and unscrewing the fastening nuts. Unscrew the nuts carefully so as not to push the lever out. Otherwise, under the action of the spring, it will fly into the glass and break it.
- By unscrewing the fasteners, the levers can be removed. It is not always possible to do this manually, so arm yourself with pliers. Be careful not to damage the threaded area. To avoid this, screw the nut back onto the splines, but not completely.
- Remove the protective caps made of plastic from the slots on each side.
- Unscrew the upper mounting nuts with the bracket and remove them. Under them there are rubber washers, which are also dismantled.
- Lift the hood and disconnect the wiring harness that powers the wiper motor.
