Gazelle 406 engine injector does not start reasons
Experienced
Group: Member Messages: 744 Registration: 10/14/2012 From: Berdsk User No.: 211114
Activist
Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546
Coils can be weird like that. And also the high-voltage wires and tips need to be inspected and ringed, the resistance checked. tips often like to die. Since the spark plugs may be wet if the coils' brains are cut off. and by the way, where did the order 1234 come from when it should be 1342? Where are the cars anyway? Otherwise I can drive up and take a look, maybe I can help.
I looked at the photo on the drome. If the wires are connected in the same way as in the photo in the ad, then the wires of cylinders 1 and 4 need to be swapped on the coil. and then reset the errors (if I remember correctly, on Mikasa it is enough to remove the terminal from the battery for a couple of minutes).
Experienced
Group: Member Messages: 744 Registration: 10/14/2012 From: Berdsk User No.: 211114
Coils can be weird like that. And also the high-voltage wires and tips need to be inspected and ringed, the resistance checked. tips often like to die. Since the spark plugs may be wet if the coils' brains are cut off. and by the way, where did the order 1234 come from when it should be 1342? Where are the cars anyway? Otherwise I can drive up and take a look, maybe I can help.
I looked at the photo on the drome. If the wires are connected in the same way as in the photo in the ad, then the wires of cylinders 1 and 4 need to be swapped on the coil. and then reset the errors (if I remember correctly, on Mikasa it is enough to remove the terminal from the battery for a couple of minutes).
Activist
Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546
Patriarch
Group: Member Messages: 22547 Registration: 02/19/2007 User No.: 41841
Activist
Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546
Patriarch
Group: Member Messages: 22547 Registration: 02/19/2007 User No.: 41841
Activist
Group: Member Messages: 479 Registration: 06/12/2007 User No.: 49546
Well, you have to watch it live. and the teeth will be exotic, they are fleshy and the pulley from below should be covered with a shield, in theory, no rubbish from the road should get on it.
By the way, I also remembered one sore that happens in the 406 family. For some time (a long time) the crankshaft pulley was not installed in one piece, but with a rubber damper. and it happens that this damper comes off and the part with the teeth rotates relative to the pulley hub. In this case, the engine will just sneeze, fill the spark plugs, and then an error will appear on the DPKV and will not start. It is easy to check: remove the belts from the pulley and try to turn it by hand by the ring gear. If it turns, the pulley needs to be replaced. I recommend replacing it with a solid one, without a damper.
Car service to help
If you decide to contact a car service, first of all carry out engine diagnostics. Few inexperienced drivers understand the cause of the breakdown. At the same time, the Gazelle 405 may not start for various reasons, and some of them can be resolved on the spot.
When you finally take your car to a car service center, at least consult with its employees; most likely they will tell you what the problem is.
It is very important to know absolutely everything about your car.
to protect yourself on the road and do extra work. Sooner or later, any part can break, but it will be better if you are prepared for this.
Causes
Not for various reasons. Some of them are related to the time of year, while others are related to wear and tear. This problem can also be caused by the negligence of drivers who are careless about the maintenance of the power unit.
So, if not, there may be several reasons:
- malfunction of fuel system components;
- problem in valves and cylinders;
- malfunctions in the ignition system;
- breakdowns in the starter and battery;
- air supply;
- sensors and control unit.
Problems in the ignition system
In the Gazelle ignition system with the ZMZ 405 engine, the weak point is the coils and spark plugs. They most often become the reason for the inability to start the engine.
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When the spark plugs are destroyed, they are no longer capable of producing a normal spark. Defects in the electrodes make it difficult to start the engine. Even if you managed to start the engine, it stalls after a little work. To fix the problem, it is recommended to replace the entire set of spark plugs.
Fuel cells
It is worth understanding that almost all elements affect the starting of the motor. For example, since the Gazelle was produced both with carburetor and injection, the injection elements will be different. This means that the reasons for possible breakdowns will not be the same.
The Gazelle-406 engine is an injection version of the vehicle. It has injectors installed, which can be the source of the problem. If cleaning has not been carried out, then most likely the injectors are dirty. To fix this, you need to remove the parts from the machine and send them for cleaning. If, during the process of restoring the functionality of the injectors, it turns out that the product cannot be repaired, then it must be replaced.
A fuel pump malfunction may be due to a breakdown inside the module. To check whether the pump is pumping, you need to get behind the wheel of the car and turn the ignition key to the second position. In this case, a characteristic noise should begin from behind, which will mean that the pump is in working condition.
Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the fuel filter. According to the service manuals and recommendations of the manufacturer, the fuel filter element must be changed every 40,000 km. If this is not done, the filter becomes clogged and does not allow fuel to pass through properly, which results in a lean mixture in the cylinders, or gasoline does not get in for ignition at all.
Recommendations
Comments 29
Recently, literally 2 days ago, I touched my friend’s head. I had the same crap as you. The engine was spinning at idle as if without spark plugs. They measured the compression, it showed 0, they threw off the head and after troubleshooting, they replaced the valves on all 4 cylinders. valves hang on our 406 engines
it was such bullshit. The crankshaft sensor died... it was a Chinese one... then I installed ours... I've been driving it for several months now and everything is fine... if the chain had jumped, there would have been popping noises in the silencer and in the intake... it happens that the buttons on the left side under the diagnostic connector die. change both... as far as I know they are for brains + injectors and a fuel pump... if the relay is dead. at least it won't start. I’ve already had this happen a couple of times... I’ve replaced 4 of them in three years...
Result: Crankshaft sensor Relyushki under the diagnostic connector
This is a DTOZH for everyone! Not long ago there was the same garbage!
Self-diagnosis shows code 12, which means it’s not the sensors...
Don't even touch the sensors yet. Were there any misfires in the engine before, or was there an incomprehensible knocking noise sometimes?
Well, there wasn’t a knock, under load it made a noise like a tractor, and then nothing
The valves were actually stuck. when you open your head, look carefully at the valves; there will be stripes on them from the impact on the piston. When they started rubbing the valves, the large plates were not completely rubbed. Because of this, the entire set was replaced
In general, I disassembled the timing belt and the lower chain broke. How to check if the valves are bent? Does the head need to be removed?
In theory it shouldn't bend. Try to assemble the timing belt and measure the compression.
Today I'll start collecting as I go. There was no money (
Well, there wasn’t a knock, under load it made a noise like a tractor, and then nothing
Why did I write so that you don’t dig deeper and look for the reason somewhere else in the bowels of the engine. and it is not necessary that all of them will have a stripe. Maybe one or two, but it is advisable to rub all the valves and change the valve seal. and be sure to pull them out of the guides, clean them and repair them
Self-diagnosis shows code 12, which means it’s not the sensors...
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code 12 - diagnostic start mode (self-diagnosis performance) maybe code 21? This is just a malfunction of the coolant sensor!
Press the gas to the floor, then turn the starter, and gradually release the gas pedal. I give 95% that it will start.
try it from the pusher, it was like this, the starter took all the voltage on itself, but it didn’t go to the spark plugs, I rebuilt the starter and everything became normal!
check the 2-pin, just disconnect the chip and start.
1) check the spark, 2) disconnect the hose from the fine filter in front of the filter and check whether the pump is pumping or just measure the pressure. I had the pump making noise as usual, and gasoline running out of the hose in a thin stream.
Hello everyone, I can't start the engine. On the Volga there is a 406 injector, the block gasket burned out, I decided to change it myself, carefully disassembled everything, changed the gasket, put the shafts according to the marks and assembled them. The spark does not start, there is fuel coming in, the spark plugs are flooded. Tell me what could be the reason? Here's a photo of the tags, I put them all out, it won't start
Valves and cylinders
Quite a few motorists monitor the condition of the power unit. As you know, wear and tear does not spare anyone or anything, and accordingly, burnout of valves and pistons can lead to the fact that at first the engine begins to start poorly, and then stops altogether.
The second nuance is the high degree of wear of the valves, which is why they do not fit tightly to the seats. Gasoline drips through the cracks into the cylinders. It turns out that there is an overflow of fuel, and since the spark plugs are filled, the power plant does not start due to the lack of a spark.
Volga injector does not start
I decided to write an article about what to do if the 406th engine does not start. Where to go, what to look for and what signs to use to determine the source of the malfunction. So far, only a general scheme for discussion. Additions, suggestions, constructive criticism are very welcome.
So, the problem is that the ZMZ-406 will not start . The battery is charged and connected normally, there is fuel in the tank.
Options: A) The car is “dead”, nothing happens when the ignition is turned on. Possible reasons: problems with the wiring of the fuse box/the unit itself, the fuse on the fender has blown, the ignition switch is dead, the ECU relay is burned out (under the hood on the front passenger side), the ECU is dead , short circuit in the ECU wiring. Where to climb? Checking fuses, replacing the relay with a known working one, checking the wiring, replacing the ignition switch/ECU with a known working one.
B) When the ignition is turned on, the warning lights come on; when you try to start, the starter does not turn. Possible reasons: starter relay died, starter died
C) The starter turns normally, but the engine does not “catch” (or there are some rare “flashes” in the cylinders). In this case, the “check” does not light up. The main possible reason is problems with the fuel supply. Problems may be with the EBN (bad ground, death of the EBN relay, the EBN itself), as well as contamination of the throttle valve or IAC. In addition, candles may be flooded (or become unusable). Check: try to start after bleeding the engine. Turn on the ignition, listen to whether the EBN is working. Check the pressure in the fuel line. If there is pressure, flush the IAC throttle valve. Check the condition of the spark plugs, replace them if necessary, as well as the high-voltage wires.
D) The starter turns normally, the engine does not. Possible cause is the death of the DPKV, a malfunction of the air temperature sensor. Check: carry out diagnostics, read error codes.
E) The car starts, but stalls almost immediately. Possible reasons: problems with the mixture (mass air flow sensor is not working correctly, the air supply corrugation is not sealed properly).
While driving, the car starts to jerk and at the same time the “chip” lights up, it feels like the spark disappears, it jerks a couple of times and works again. And today it won’t start at all, we tried it with a pushrod, when I put it in gear, the chip lights up. What's wrong with her?
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Check the fuel supply, you have something wrong with the pump or filters! You have an injector: check the pressure in the rail, the fuel filter and the strainer on the fuel pump! If the carburetor: fuel pump, the carburetor may have clogged jets, also the standard fuel filter! Write comments!
- Posts: 1
December 24, 2013, 14:34 #1 123
I ran out of gas, filled it up with new gas, and eventually the car stopped and wouldn’t start. Replaced knee sensors. shaft, camshaft, replaced spark plugs. I checked the compression (normal). I took the car to an electrician and they said that everything was fine with the electrics. Still can't start it. The starter turns, but does not engage. What could it be?
- Posts: 10185
- From: Angarsk
- Lada Niva 2131M Nissan Patrol
December 25, 2013, 04:46 #2 123
The fuel line is airy, you need to bleed the air.
For some reason, it’s only on the Volga that you can’t drive the tank dry; I’ve never encountered such a problem on other cars.
- Posts: 3060
- From: Novosibirsk
- ZIL 5301 Bull
December 25, 2013, 05:34 #3 123
Ignition system
Spark plugs and high-voltage wires directly affect engine starting. Accordingly, breakdowns in the elements will cause a failure of the entire system. To check spark plugs, a special stand is used, although you can check it the old fashioned way:
- We unscrew the candle from the well.
- We connect the armored wire.
- Connect the spark plug body to ground.
- We try to start the engine.
If everything is in order with the spark plugs, then there will be a spark between the contacts. If the part is faulty, then there will be no spark, and accordingly, the element must be replaced. Checking armored wires is quite simple. All elements are removed from the car and measured by a tester. The resistance on each high voltage wire should be 5 ohms.
The carburetor or injector does not start on a cold gazelle 406 engine
A Gazelle with a 406 carburetor and injection engine does not want to work for various reasons. Most of the issues are related to cold temperatures in winter.
Common reasons why a gazelle won't start
The Gazelle will not start, there are different reasons:
- The fuel system and its associated components are faulty. The crux of the problem relates to the cylinders and valves.
- The ignition system has suspected problems.
- Poor starter and battery performance.
- The uniform air supply is interrupted.
- There are malfunctions in the control unit and its sensors.
All elements of the fuel system will have a significant impact on engine starting. The ZMZ 406 engine for the gazelle is available in injection and carburetor versions. In the injection version, injectors are installed, obviously they can be the suspected source of the problem. There was no cleaning for a long period of time. They are in a dirty state. They should be cleaned or replaced.
Also the fuel pump is faulty due to internal failure. First, check if the pump is pumping. First of all, turn the ignition key to position 2. A noise is heard behind, indicating a working pump.
Fuel supply problems
The 406 engine carburetor does not start because the fuel supply is difficult. The reason is that there is no ignition in the cylinders of the unit. There is a small amount of fuel for starting; the spark plugs are filled with excess fuel.
Control begins with observing how the exhaust occurs. During the rotation of the starter, light smoke appears from the pipe, indicating the flow of fuel into the cylinders.
Carburetor problems
The 406 carburetor engine does not start. Adjust the semi-automatic starting device on the carburetor in order to ensure the desired opening angle of the dampers at the time of starting. If not adjusted, a lot of fuel appears in the intake manifold, as well as excess cold air in the carburetor. In the first case, the carburetor is removed, access from the rear is small. The engine can be adjusted.
Checking and setting up the starting device
Be sure to check the trigger diaphragm. If it is pulled out or torn, there will be no positive result even if the valves and levers of this device are adjusted correctly. Carburetor specialists are not eager to delve into the intricacies, there is too much work and patience.
Poor quality fuel
There are problems with low-quality fuel. Change gasoline at a reputable gas station. All gasoline is pumped out of the tank and new gas is added.
Sometimes the valve that shuts off the gasoline changes. Make sure that gasoline is flowing into the carburetor.
Fine filter malfunction
Gazelle ZMS 406 carburetor does not start. Fine and coarse filters prevent the movement of gasoline into the engine. When clogged, they do not allow fuel to pass through, leaving the cylinders with a lean mixture. Fuel does not ignite.
Problems with the fuel pump
It often happens that the engine does not start because fuel does not flow into the engine due to the low efficiency of the fuel pump. The fuel pump does not have the required level of pressure in the rail. There may be an air leak in the fuel system. Inspect main damage and cracks. Gasoline is leaking - loss of tightness of the fuel wires.
Valves problem
The valves are not pressed tightly against the seats. Gasoline enters the cylinders. There is an overflow of fuel, the spark plugs are flooded, there is no spark. Check the carburetor, most likely there is ice in the float chamber. The dosing needle is frozen.
Ignition does not work as expected
Spark plugs together with wires influence engine starting. Checking the spark plugs on a bench, but you can check it the old fashioned way. They are unscrewed after starting the unit. The spark plug is filled with gasoline - an indication of leakage in the injectors or ignition issues. The spark plugs and also the wires are checked for suitability, making sure that there is a spark discharge. A dry spark plug indicates that there is no fuel supply to the cylinder body. We bring the spark plug body to ground and start the engine. If the spark plug is working, there will be a spark. If it is faulty, there will be no spark. Change the tips of the candles, which sometimes break through, especially on the first pot.
Problems with armor wires
Checking the armored wire. The nodes are checked by a tester. The resistance of each wire is 5 ohms. Carefully examine the carbolite surfaces on the distributor cover, bobbin, and runner for cracks. Clean it with a knife, you can safely drive for a certain time, and then it’s better to replace it.
Dead battery
Practice shows that the battery is the main evil. Charging solves the problem.
Air filter clogged
The 406 engine does not start, the air filter is clogged. Throttle valve clogged. The electronics block the engine from starting. During an external inspection of the electronics, it is necessary to reset the codes and eliminate the emergency sensors. It's better to hire professionals.
The ECU is covered
Problems often arise with the ECU at sub-zero temperatures, it freezes and there is no current to the coil. Needs to be warmed up.
Gazelle 406 carburetor does not start well. Electronic injection injectors are equipped with special sensors. With the help of these tracking devices, mutual action is realized with the engine ECU. Failure of electronic boards leads to incorrect pulses entering the control unit. The engine cannot be started.
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Poor starting on cold Gazelle 406 injector
Today -14, started only with the gas pedal. When hot, it starts without the gas pedal, but it turns several revolutions longer compared to a serviceable Volga 406i. Otherwise the engine runs like a clock. I understand from reading the conference archives that the temperature sensor is to blame, I want to try transferring it from the Volga.
Which temperature sensor needs to be replaced? The one in the receiver that measures the air temperature? Or is it a sensor in the thermostat housing?
Thanks in advance, Alexander (Gazelle 406i and Volga 406i).
PS Forgot to indicate: Gazelle, engine 4062, Mikas 7.1 film, 590 firmware.
It’s not a fact that the sensors.. It could be spark plugs (BB) or problems with freezing of the IAC (DZ). And when you operate the pedal, you simply control the speed yourself, and not MIKAS in XX mode
nope.. Look. If so, then there is NO heating of the DZ yet (the antifreeze is still COLD). And when it starts up, does the “air flow” “suck out” EVERYTHING with black smoke? Wow. If there is LOW oxygen (for example, the IAC is malfunctioning). That is what will happen - RE-ENRICHMENT.
Briefly speaking. I would still look at the “IAC steps” during startup and during operation. Another option is injector glitches
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Common Causes
The Gazelle 405 injector does not start for various reasons. There could be a hundred of them, or even more, since there are simply unrealistically many details. However, injectors and spark plugs
. If the latter can be bought at any auto parts store, and even a less experienced driver can replace them, then problems may arise with the former.
The fact is that it is very difficult to determine that in such a situation in the Gazelle 405 it was the injectors that broke
.
They are often the last thing thought of.
, so a lot of time is lost diagnosing the breakdown. But there is another option - problems with the injector. Fortunately, it doesn’t always need to be repaired; sometimes all you need to do is wash the part and the car will start. In any case, you will be very lucky if the breakdown is not serious, since the Gazelle 405 can take forever to repair and still not understand the reasons for the breakdown.
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Comments 11
Try pumping it up three times and starting it! 1 temperature sensor 2 pump is dying!
Try starting it with the gas pedal depressed. To be honest, there can be many reasons: injectors (flow), pump (pressure), jot (new, it’s not a fact that it’s working or not for your brain www.drive2.ru/l/5303392/), ignition angle, quality of gasoline, rxx ( try flushing), voltage on board (try to throw a wire on the coil with the + battery when it’s cold and start it like that, when you connect the ignition will turn on, that’s how it should be!), spark plugs (gap of spark plugs), air filter (unlikely, but still) , timing belt (stretched chain), try wiping the headlights before starting))) (HUMOR), maybe I missed something else, someone will add!
Thank you for your response, everything that you listed this year, everything was installed new, you understand, the mileage is 356,000 km... it starts but not the first time, the second or even the third... on a warm engine with half a turn... by the way, what kind of OZ should Mikasa 11 have? The ZMZ 405 won't start at all with the pedal depressed! If the forces were flowing when the ignition was turned on, popping noises would be made in the combustion chambers! this is not the case. Idle speed is perfect 800 rpm. Most likely the DTOZh stuck the wrong one!
On Mikasa I can’t say, it seems to be programmed there from the factory because it doesn’t change the advance angle from the onboard one. But on Soate it changes for me. Try to play around with the camshaft sensor, it also sometimes gets weird and there is no way to check it and it won’t give an error until it shorts out, it was like seven years ago, at idle there seemed to be little shaking and every other time it started normally, who knows? . you can check its integrity through resistance with a cartoon just like a jot, but I don’t remember the parameters ((, a guy suggested it a long time ago, since they are not exchangeable, he checked it right away from the cash register, out of 10 only 5-6 are normal .
Thank you for your response, everything that you listed this year, everything was installed new, you understand, the mileage is 356,000 km... it starts but not the first time, the second or even the third... on a warm engine with half a turn... by the way, what kind of OZ should Mikasa 11 have? The ZMZ 405 won't start at all with the pedal depressed! If the forces were flowing when the ignition was turned on, popping noises would be made in the combustion chambers! this is not the case. Idle speed is perfect 800 rpm. Most likely the DTOZh stuck the wrong one!
jot Sensor resistance: 24…27 kOhm just in case
Battery problems
If the Gazelle does not start, then you should start searching for the impossibility of starting the engine with the battery. If it is insufficiently charged, the starter does not have enough energy to turn the crankshaft. In this case, a significant drop in the on-board network voltage occurs. The traction relay starts to click, but the engine cannot start.
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The situation with starting the engine with a discharged or old battery is aggravated in cold weather. There are two reasons for this:
- engine oil thickens in the cold and it becomes more difficult for the starter to crank the crankshaft, which causes increased starting current and greater battery energy consumption;
- When it's cold, the chemical reactions of the battery slow down and the battery becomes able to deliver less charge.
In winter, both of the above reasons overlap each other. Starting becomes especially difficult when cold. Under unfavorable conditions, the car may completely refuse to start.
With a discharged battery, many car owners start their Gazelle only with a pusher, but there are other ways, the main ones being:
- start using ROM;
- “lighting up” from another vehicle;
- charging the original battery with a nominal or increased current and then starting the power unit.
A situation with a discharged battery does not require special attention from the car owner if it occurs only once. It is enough to recharge the battery and you can continue to operate the machine as before. If the battery dies often, then it is necessary to diagnose it. Based on its results, a decision is made on the method and feasibility of restoration work. In some cases, it is more rational to purchase a new battery.
If the battery shows full serviceability, but dies in a short period of time, then the on-board network must be checked. It may contain short circuits and high leakage currents. If they are identified, you should not delay troubleshooting. Prompt resolution of problems will eliminate the risk of a car fire.
The integrity of the battery case directly affects the success of starting the power unit.
The presence of through cracks and other similar defects leads to the loss of part of the electrolyte. The battery's ability to deliver starting current and energy is significantly reduced. To diagnose the problem, just carefully inspect the case. If any damage is detected, the car owner is faced with a choice between carrying out repairs or purchasing a new power source.