How to unscrew the oil filter without a key? 5 ways to choose

Why change the oil filter?

The recommended mileage after which an oil change is necessary is on average 15 thousand km. It all depends on operating conditions, the degree of engine wear, and driving style. For example, when constantly moving with a trailer, it is recommended to change the lubricant more often. The same can be said about drivers who prefer an aggressive driving style. Each oil change is accompanied by the installation of a new filter.

Inexperienced drivers sometimes do not understand why this element needs to be changed: they say, it is enough to fill in fresh oil. The fact is that any lubricant that is poured contains foreign particles that negatively affect the operation of the engine. Plus, there are always tiny chips inside the motor, and dirt can get inside it. All this needs to be sifted out, which is what the oil filter does. It has been calculated that if it were not there at all, the engine’s service life would be reduced by five (!) times.

Selection of components and consumables

First of all, let's look at how to choose an oil filter. Filters with the number 21080-1012005-00 were produced by the VAZ plant for a long time, and they were installed on Prior engines. Then, with the advent of the Grant family, filters began to be supplied from the plant in Livny. These parts are always identified by the number 21080-1012005-08. And only a filter from the city of Livny can be installed in a new car.

Oil filter for Lada Granta

The height of the “new filters” housing is 74 mm. And for VAZ filters it was 75 mm. The difference here is practically zero, but anything less than 70 mm in height will not suit us.

The option with the Renault filter (7700274177) immediately disappears. Its height is 54 mm. Really suitable replacements include MAHLE filters: OC384 (74 mm) and OC606 (72 mm). Filters) are also suitable.

Next we talk about the choice of oils. From the factory, 8-valve engines are always filled with break-in fluid, which is replaced after 2500 km. At TO-1, until November 2015, Shell material was used - we are talking about semi-synthetic Helix HX7 (10W40). Then we switched to using Rosneft oils with the same viscosity.

Shell Helix HX7, 4 l pack

The entire list of recommended materials looks like this:

NameManufacturerViscosity (SAE)
LUKOIL LUX"Lukoil-Permnefteorg-sintez" (Perm) or "LLK-International"5W-20 – 5W-50, 10W-30 (40), 0W-40
LUX Hit/Best"Dolphin Industry" (Pushkino)10W-40
NOVOIL SUPERBashneft (Ufa)5W-30 (40), 10W-30 (40), 15W-30 (40), 20W-40 (50)
ROSNEFT MAXIMUM"Novokuibyshevsky10W-40 and 5W-40
ROSNEFT PREMIUM"Angarskneftekhim"5W-40
TNK MAGNUM SUPER"TNK" (Ryazan)5W-30 (40), 10W-40, 15W-40 (50)
TATNEFT SYNTHETIC"Tatneft-Nizhnekamsk"0W-40, 5W-30 (40)
TATNEFT ULTRA/OPTIMAsee above5W-30 (40), 10W-40
TATNEFT EXTRA"Omsk Oil Refinery" or "Gazpromneft-SM"10W-40, 5W-30, 15W-40
G-ENERGY S"Gazpromneft-SM"15W-40, 10W-40
SIBIMOTOR SUPER"Omsk Oil Refinery" or "Gazpromneft-SM"15W-40, 10W-40
MOBIL 1, ESP FORMULA brandExxon-Mobil5W-30
MOBIL SUPER, brand 3000 X1see above5W-40
MOBIL SUPER, brand 2000 X1see above10W-40
MOBIL 1, NEW LIFE brandsee above0W-40
MOBIL 1, PEAK LIFE brandsee above5W-50
SHELL, brand HELIX PLUSShell East Europe Co10W-40
SHELL, brand HELIX PLUS EXTRAsee above5W-40
SHELL, brand HELIX ULTRAsee above5W-40
SHELL brand HELIX HX7see above10W-40 and 5W-40
ZIC A PLUSSK Corporation10W-30 (40), 5W-30
GT TURBO SMHanval INC10W-40
ESSO ULTRAExxon-Mobil10W-40

In the VAZ catalog you can even find the number of the drain plug. It consists of the numbers 21080-1009156-00.

Drain plug for VAZ 8-valve internal combustion engines

The filling plug is designated as 11190-1009146-00. And the part with the designation 21080-1009045-00 is a control probe.

Second method

Unscrew the oil filter using special keys previously purchased at a car store; they come in two main types:

  1. Chain key.
  2. Crab Key.

Chain key

crab key

Having decided to purchase a special key, choose the first option; it is more reliable and is more often used by service station workers.

What to do next?

When the old filter is removed, before installing a new one in its place, be sure to wipe the mounting area with a rag, pour oil into the filter itself, and do not forget to lubricate the rubber gasket with it. Only after this can the new part be considered ready for installation. Screw it into place (you don’t need to put much effort into this), turn on the ignition and let the engine warm up, while you observe the repair site. If everything is done correctly, oil will not ooze out from under the filter.

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Why might this be needed?

Car manufacturers recommend changing the engine oil every 15 thousand kilometers. Under difficult operating conditions, for example, when traveling with a trailer, the lubricant is changed more often. When changing the oil, it is advisable to change the oil filter.

Many car enthusiasts do not understand the reasons for replacing the oil filter when the lubricant is changed. The engine is the heart of the car; it is subject to the greatest wear and tear, since it bears the main load. The engine fluid being poured contains foreign particles that have a bad effect on the operation of the engine. An oil filter is designed to filter out these particles. The more it is worn, the worse the quality of the lubricant becomes, and this, in turn, affects engine wear.

Structure of the filter element

It is impossible to determine the suitability of an oil filter by appearance. It is also difficult to draw conclusions about the need for replacement based on mileage. The filter element works constantly, even when the engine is idling, so its wear depends not on mileage, but on engine hours. Some drivers, when changing the oil, neglect to replace the filter element, considering it unnecessary.

When choosing a replacement product, it is important to focus not on its appearance, but on its content. Drivers with an aggressive driving style are better off installing expensive products. This is due to the fact that when driving fast, hard braking or accelerating, the engine requires a large amount of oil. Expensive filters have synthetic elements that can withstand loads and high temperatures well, allowing the oil to pass through quickly. Analogues have felt-based elements through which the lubricant passes longer than through synthetic material. These products are suitable for lovers of a quiet ride.

Design of 8-valve engines

The 11186 engine and its predecessor 11183 do not differ in the location of the components, although their displacement is different. And for motor 21116 (details about the service life and characteristics of motor 21116 here) a separate drawing is provided here. All components related to the lubrication system will be marked on the drawings.

A special feature of the design is the operating temperature of the engine, which in winter does not rise above 80 degrees. The manufacturer (AvtoVAZ) does not consider this feature to be a malfunction. The official information letter is in the material: operating temperature of an 8-valve engine.

The numbers in the figures indicate the details:

  • Oil filler neck and plug – 7 (Fig. 1), 4 (Fig. 3);
  • Drain plug – 17 (Fig. 2), 10 (Fig. 4);
  • Oil filter – 14 (Fig. 2), 8 (Fig. 4);
  • Diagnostic probe – 5 (Fig. 1), 9 (Fig. 3);

Photos 1 and 2 correspond to motor 11183 (11186), photos 3 and 4 are a drawing of motor 21116.

Since motors 11186 and 21116 do not differ in power, the owner may not know which of the two motors was installed. Engine information is printed on a plate with a VIN code. It, in turn, is located above the left headlight.

How to unscrew the oil filter

There are special keys for this that can be purchased at car dealerships. But it happens that it is impossible to get to the filter with such a tool due to limited space. Or another situation: instead of a standard product, you installed a higher quality element with larger dimensions. In such cases, the question arises: how to unscrew the oil filter without a key? But first it’s worth identifying the reasons why the product cannot be turned away by hand. There are two of them:

  • during the previous oil change, the filter was tightened too tightly with a wrench (this is typical for car repair shops);
  • the product just got stuck because it hasn’t been changed for a long time.

Below are all the popular ways to replace an old filter with a new one. However, this product must be unscrewed by hand. There is also a trivial situation: maybe you just don’t have enough strength. Then invite a stronger assistant.

Using a screwdriver

The tool must be long: longer than the diameter of the filter. You just need to pierce it, and right through it. The screwdriver here plays the role of a lever, which should be sharp and thick. Don't forget to drain the oil first: however, some of it will still spill out, so take care in advance and place a suitable container down. It is worth noting: all filters turn counterclockwise.

Using a leather belt

A regular trouser shirt will do. You need to make a loop out of it and throw it over the body. The free end is a kind of lever.

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If the belt turns, place a piece of sandpaper under it. If you have an alternator belt from a VAZ or other car at hand, you can use that too. The filter must be unscrewed.

Using a gas key

Removal in this way is only acceptable if there is enough space in your car and the tool can easily fit there. The handle of the tool will be the lever. However, fanaticism is not needed! Be careful not to roll anything else along the way.

Using a chisel and hammer

Everything is clear here: take a tool (it should be sharp), place it on the rim of the filter, closer to the engine (this makes it easier to remove). The blows must be strong and sharp.

Using a homemade tool

It makes sense to make a puller yourself, similar to the factory product. To do this you will need a regular bicycle chain. If it has 30 links, then this is an ideal option for the VAZ classic. The chain must be connected into a ring using a rivet or a regular lock. Next, take your used 19 or 22 socket head: you need to make a cut in it, the width of which corresponds to the width of the chain. This is where you need to insert it. To make it more convenient to unscrew the filter, insert a wrench or ratchet into the square hole of the head. All that remains is to smoothly twist the homemade puller counterclockwise.

When the old filter is unscrewed in one way or another, thoroughly wipe the seat with a rag, removing all particles of dirt. Fill the new filter with oil and screw it in by hand. Try to do this with force, but not excessively! Only after this can the filter replacement procedure be considered complete.

Replacement operation

It is recommended to change the oil only when the engine is warm. And yet, it would be better to drive the car into a pit. Otherwise, you will have to find the drain plug by touch. Only the replacement procedure is discussed here. A list of recommended materials is provided in Chapter 3.

Disconnecting the battery from the network

First of all, you will need to disconnect the negative terminal. Here you need a “10” wrench (see figure). Next, unscrew the filler plug, and then perform the following steps:

  1. Make sure that the filler neck has been opened;
  2. Use a 12mm spanner to unscrew the drain plug. It is not necessary to remove the crankcase protection (Fig. 1);

Unscrew the plug (Fig. 1)

Let the oil drain into a 4 liter container (Fig. 2)

Removing the filter (Fig. 3)

The rubber seal must be in oil (Fig. 4)

If the filter has been changed, add another 100 ml to the indicated figures. Steps 2, 3, 5 and 6 are illustrated in the photo.

The last step is to connect the battery to start the engine. It is necessary to ensure that the control lamp goes out. Then check the oil level using the dipstick and, if necessary, top up (100-200 ml).

This engine warning light should come on for a couple of seconds after starting.

The oil level dipstick will have MIN and MAX marks. What they mean is clear to everyone. By the way, the volume of the lubrication system is 3.5 liters, but 300-500 grams of “working off” always remains in the engine.

Choosing a puller

What kind of universal pullers have not been invented to make life easier for the car owner. But any puller always belongs to one of the types: chain, rod or plier puller. Each of the three types is illustrated in the photo.

Everyone knows that universal pullers are inconvenient to use. Yes, and they are expensive. Therefore, sanding paper, cloth gloves, etc. are used. But it often turns out that the filter is screwed on tightly.

The outer diameter of the Granta oil filter is 76 mm. A part manufactured by Renault can serve as a puller for it. This part is shown in the photo, and it is called a “cup puller”.

How and with what can this be done?

We suggest you familiarize yourself with the main methods that will allow you to dismantle the filter device with your own hands.

User Andrey Florida in his video explained how to replace the oil filter and what options are available for dismantling it.

Can you twist it by hand?

There are special tools for dismantling the filter device. But you can also unscrew it yourself. If the sticking of the device is strong, a tool or improvised devices will be required for dismantling.

Which way should I unscrew?

The filter is dismantled by turning its housing counterclockwise.

Special key

You can use a special key to unscrew it. This is an effective method, but to implement it you will need to purchase a tool. You will find several key options on sale:

  • chain;
  • clamping tool;
  • tape;
  • screw puller.

How to use it correctly?

To unscrew it with a chain or other special wrench, hook the filter device with a tool, securely fix it and remove it by turning it counterclockwise.

Chain type removal tool Special wrench with clamp for filter removal

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Rope (belt) and screwdriver

To remove the device without a tool, use a belt or rope with a screwdriver:

  1. A screwdriver is used to pierce the body of the filter device, as a result of which the tool is used as a lever. When using a screwdriver, you need to pierce the element right through, this will make twisting more effective.
  2. When using a belt or rope, the dismantling method simulates the use of a special key. The strap should be wide and made of leather or leatherette. A loop is made, after which it is tightened on the device itself counterclockwise. For quick dismantling, give a sharp tug on the rope or strap. The removal process may be difficult due to the strap slipping. Then insert a piece of sandpaper into the loop itself and perform the described steps again.

Hammer and long screwdriver

This method of unscrewing a part is similar to the screwdriver method. Its implementation is relevant if you pierced the filter, but could not move it from its place. Then dismantling the device is possible by applying force from blows with a hammer to the screwdriver handle.

Hammer and chisel

If these dismantling methods do not help or the housing of the filter device is damaged, then use a chisel instead of a screwdriver. Make a small notch on the part for the chisel to rest against. We begin to hit the instrument with a hammer. This usually helps to quickly unscrew the filter.

Homemade instrument

You can change the filter and dismantle the device with a homemade puller. The operating principle of such a tool is identical to a special key.

You will learn about making your own dismantling tool from the video. The material was filmed and made public by the kv3st channel.

You need to build such a device yourself:

  1. You will need a bicycle chain, or rather a section of it. When dismantling the filter in domestically produced VAZ cars, the optimal chain size is 30 links.
  2. The chain is connected into a ring; a lock or rivet is used for fixation.
  3. You will need an unnecessary head from a 19 or 22 socket wrench. You need to make a cut in it that matches the size of the bicycle chain.
  4. Install the extension into the connecting square hole on the head. Use an awl or ratchet. For reliable fixation, the diameter of the extension must be equal to the size of the hole.
  5. Unscrew the filter device by turning it counterclockwise.

Gas key

The use of this method is relevant if there is free space around the device. Hook the oil filter housing with the tool and use its handles as a lever. Be careful not to damage other powertrain components. Be careful as some oil will come out of the filter when removing it.

How to choose the right filter element for Granta

New owners of the Lada Grant are definitely interested in the question: which oil filter to choose for this car? They are faced with this question during every maintenance. The main purpose of the oil filter is to clean the lubricant from impurities and wear particles. Externally, the filter for the VAZ Granta looks like a metal glass in which a paper cleaning element in the form of a folded accordion is placed.

Each car enthusiast decides for himself which filter element is best to install. Among the most popular and rightly trusted by domestic consumers are the products of the MANN brand. Many people choose the branded Renault oil filter, modification 7700274177.

In addition to these brands, you can also purchase products from Granta from companies such as:

  • Fortech.
  • Filtron.
  • Logem.
  • Mecafilter.
  • Klaxcar.
  • Goodwill, etc.

Replacing the filter on the Lada Granta

In order to avoid the unpleasant fact of purchasing a fake, it makes sense to purchase an oil filter at specialized retail outlets. Every consumer has the right to demand a quality certificate for this and other products.

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