Do-it-yourself modification (modernization) of the VAZ 2110 stove

There is nothing perfect in the world. This becomes especially clear when it comes to modifying (upgrading) the stove on a VAZ 2110. No one wants to freeze in a car in winter, not to mention the windows covered with ice. Upgrading the VAZ 2110 stove becomes for motorists not just a momentary whim, but a cruel necessity dictated by the harsh Russian frosts.

Modification of the VAZ 2110 stove

In order to withstand the imperfections of the world in the form of the VAZ 2110 heating system, it will be enough to arm yourself with a tube of silicone or sealant, polyurethane foam, simple plumbing tools, and also a certain amount of patience. Without theoretical foundations, of course, there is no way either.

  • Modifying the stove, simple techniques
  • Refinement of the air duct system of the VAZ furnace, dismantling the standard installation
  • Sealing the cracks in the front panel of the torpedo air ducts
  • Modernization of the VAZ stove damper
  • Modernization of the heating system for rear seats and driver's feet in VAZ cars
  • Refinement of the thermostat and its connection diagram
  • conclusions

Modifying the stove, simple techniques

Modernizing the VAZ 2110-2112 stove is a thorough and multifaceted process. If you don’t have the time or opportunity to fully remodel the stove system, but you need a positive result in the shortest possible time and with minimal effort, because winter is almost upon us, you can try to listen to the following advice.

  1. 1. The easiest way to increase the air flow of the heater for heating the feet of the front seats in the cabin is by blocking the heater ducts for the rear ones. Any tool at your disposal will do. Thus, you sacrifice the comfort of your passengers, but is this really important if, for example, you prefer to drive alone;
  2. 2. A similar result can be achieved by blocking the air channels of the central deflector oven by cutting a suitable plug from a sheet of aluminum. Obviously, in this case, the heat flow directed to the side windows and other furnace ducts in the car increases.

Stove damper tens

  1. 3. Often, standard VAZ 2110 door seals are not enough for reliable sound and heat insulation. Simply gluing additional insulating tape around the perimeter (for example, from K-Flex) can significantly improve the comfort inside the VAZ interior with minimal time and money investments;
  2. 4. Replacing the 5-hole thermostat with a more modern 6-hole thermostat, which controls the engine cooling and heating system in VAZ cars. These thermostats are completely interchangeable, so there should be no problems. A 6-hole thermostat is technologically more advanced, and therefore the heating of the stove radiator in a car will be more efficient. Such pleasure costs about 350 rubles.

Upgraded thermostat

Popular problems


Diagram
The reasons for valve failure are different

Causes of failureCharacteristic
Micromotor gearbox jammedThis element is responsible for controlling the damper drive
Problem in the control unitIt should be checked in order to understand whether the micromotor gearbox, the damper, or the control unit is at fault
The plastic dampers have moved from their seat and are jammed, making it impossible to control the stove.This is typical for the old-style VAZ 2110 heater damper, when plastic was still used for this component.

When the gearbox is functioning, but the damper still does not turn, you can hear characteristic sounds - clicks . This indicates that a square shaft rotates inside the socket.

There is only one way to cure such a malfunction - remove the old damper made of plastic with foam insulation, and replace it with a new, modern one. The new type of damper is made of metal, and the seal for it is made of rubber.

Refinement of the air duct system of the VAZ furnace, dismantling the standard installation

If you have a little time and desire, modifications to the VAZ 2110 stove can be done much more thoroughly, namely:

  • sealing the cracks in the front panel of the torpedo air ducts;
  • modernization of the car stove damper;
  • modernization of the heating system for the rear seats and driver's feet, installation of corrugated heating ducts.

All this will certainly result in the desired result and significant heat transfer from the stove, but first you need to remove the dashboard along with the dashboard and heater air ducts, for which you need to:

  1. 1. Remove the floor tunnel lining cover and the interior heating air ducts of the VAZ 2110, and then the body itself, screwed with self-tapping screws to the bottom of your car;
  2. 2. To remove the instrument panel, you will first need to dismantle the glove box by unscrewing it from its hinges and turning off the glove box light;
  3. 3. Through the formed niche, unscrew the mounting bolts of the instrument panel;
  4. 4. Having unscrewed all the fastening screws of the panel in its upper and lower parts, as well as on the controller bracket, we can finally remove the instrument panel from the mounting studs;
  5. 5. In order to remove the panel from the car interior, you will need to disconnect the electrical connectors for connecting the devices.

Modernization of the VAZ 2110 stove on your own

Modernization of the VAZ stove

As you know, in the cold season a car simply cannot do without a heater, since without it both the driver and the passengers themselves will freeze. Naturally, all VAZ cars are equipped with a stove, however, the quality of its installation is an open question.

Objectively, modernizing the VAZ 2110 stove is not only a necessary condition, but also mandatory. Because it is better to stop the emergence of negative consequences at the stage of their appearance, rather than try to overcome the consequences later.

Upgrading the stove on a VAZ 2110 is a responsible process, but completely doable on your own.

How relevant and necessary is it to modernize the heater?

VAZ 2110 stove modernization

A short list of possible negative consequences of a VAZ factory stove:

  • low degree of operating efficiency, the heater seems to be functioning, however, the effect is hardly noticeable;
  • moisture regularly accumulates on the windshield;
  • traces of estrus, etc., visible to the naked eye.

To modernize the furnace, you first need to:

  • remove the stove block;
  • after which, it must be disassembled into individual components.

All functional elements of the furnace are connected to each other using bolts.

Upgrading the ventilation function of the furnace

VAZ 2110 stove modernization

You can improve side ventilation in two different ways:

  • to create full blowing of the side windows, use corrugations with their appropriate gasket;
  • insulate the side windows themselves directly, creating an absolute degree of insulation by eliminating all existing cracks.

In practice, the use of corrugations is a very relative concept, since their effect will only be noticeable to the feet of passengers. Corrugations are not suitable for creating proper ventilation, as they will provide virtually no real effect.

In most cases, after installing the corrugations, the ventilation properties of the heater become worse even than before their use.

In particular, especially rare cases, sometimes the ventilation properties after installing the corrugations may not be affected and remain at the same functional level.

If possible, sealing all the cracks seems to be a much more practical and effective solution. Gaps that need to be closed as a priority:

  • first it is necessary to eliminate the cracks in the lower and upper panels;
  • then bolt mounting holes; for this purpose, you can use modelin sealing agent.

Stove VAZ 2110

After eliminating the cracks, you need to take a close look at the heater damper. Because it is she who controls the efficiency of the ventilation air flow.

Furnace damper modernization

So:

  • due to the fact that the damper itself is not directly adjacent to the heater, a significant part of the air does not flow to its intended purpose;
  • using a sealing agent, glue and double tape, you need to eliminate all existing cracks and cover the heater valve with double tape;
  • Initially, the furnace body itself is completely covered with standard sponge, which must be removed and Bitoplast 10 installed in its place; sometimes a double layer can be used;
  • a huge amount of air is lost directly in the crack of the driver's window, since its dimensions are quite large, so foam must be used to eliminate it.

One of the most frequently asked questions is the squeaking of the heater panel, in practice it does not exist, so there is no need to worry about it.

Sealing the cracks in the front panel of the torpedo air ducts

The main problem with good blowing of side windows is the presence of a large number of cracks in the dashboard air duct system, which should only be sealed, thereby reducing heat loss and significantly increasing the pressure of the air flow for blowing the side windows of the car.

Heater duct routing

You will need silicone or anti-squeak (modelin). We seal around the perimeter all the cracks in the upper and lower parts of the torpedo panel. Also, do not forget to “silicone” all the mounting holes. At this point, you can consider the first stage of work completed.

Modernization of the VAZ stove damper

The problem with the stove damper is that the cracks in the housing are not properly sealed. As a result, regardless of the position of the damper, the flow of warm air is significantly lost, passing not where we would like it.

Furnace damper modernization

You can combat this by installing an additional seal (the same model and double-sided tape will serve you well). After removing the factory seal, completely glue the entire valve body, eliminating any gaps. You also tape the damper itself. Thus, you have significantly reduced losses in the air flow directed to the driver’s face, legs and windshield.

But to seal the gap at the beginning of the channel for blowing the driver's window, a conventional seal will not be enough. It is recommended to use polyurethane foam to reliably seal unwanted air channels, thereby eliminating significant losses.

Features of operation of the VAZ-2110 heater

In order for the heater to serve for a long time and efficiently, it is important to use not only the device itself correctly, but also know some other rules.

  1. If your car has air conditioning, it is best to use it in wet weather.
  2. There is no need to block the hot air nozzles with carpets. It is better to raise them above the level of the carpets.
  3. In winter, before using the car, it is imperative to clean the windows from dirt and moisture.
  4. In winter, it is recommended to use two adjustment positions for the installed heater. If you need to quickly drain the glass, you need to use the “all on the glass” position, and as soon as the car starts moving, you should switch to the “all on your feet” mode.

Modernization of the heating system for rear seats and driver's feet in VAZ cars

Laying corrugated heating ducts

As for the module for distributing air flow to the driver’s feet, front seat passenger and rear part of the cabin, this also has its own factory flaws. They are also associated with insufficient sealing of cracks. You can fight with modelin or silicone, as in the case of a torpedo, if you do not want to disturb the factory aesthetics of the parts.

Airflow for rear passengers' feet

It would be much simpler and more reliable to cut off the ill-fated Christmas tree that distributes air flows and use three separate 40 mm corrugated pipes for heating ducts. What do you gain in this case:

  • you get reliable sealing of the channels;
  • three corrugated hoses take up much less space, which greatly simplifies access to the VAZ 2110 electrical wiring system, located there (there are really a lot of wires and access to them is extremely difficult).

Corrugation gasket for heater

We also remove the partitions of the old air distribution system. We seal the hoses using polyurethane foam. It should also be taken into account that the textured internal coating of a corrugated hose can cause whistling and howling of air, so we do not make the pipelines very large.

Refinement of the thermostat and its connection diagram

The previously discussed modernization of the VAZ 2110 stove by replacing a 5-hole thermostat with a 6-hole thermostat is not least related to the diameters of the bypass channels of the devices that regulate the flow of Antifreeze between the small cooling circuit and the radiator of the heating system.

The standard size of the bypass channel on a 6-hole thermostat is 11 mm, and on a 5-hole thermostat the hole is measured with a diameter of 16 mm. Regardless of what type of thermostat you have installed, you can always further adjust the flow of coolant. Thus, the interior of the VAZ 2110 will warm up better at idle engine speed.

It is recommended to use an aluminum pad to set the bypass diameter in the range from 4 to 6 mm. It is worth understanding that in this way we slightly increase the engine warm-up time. But the cabin will become really warmer.

When reinstalling the thermostat, swap the connections of the pipes coming from the expansion tank and coming from the radiator of your car's heater. Now there is no longer any need to cover the radiator with cardboard in winter; the VAZ 2110 heating system will work perfectly in any weather.

Diagram and design of the heating system in the VAZ-2110

The heating unit itself is represented by several components:

  1. Electric motor. A ventilation device is fixed on it, designed to pump a hot air flow.
  2. A radiator device, the failure of which will lead to the inoperability of the stove. On old-style heating systems, the radiator assembly is not equipped with a valve designed to shut off the flow of coolant through the device. Therefore, the unit practically does not leak, since leaks are usually associated with the faucet. The absence of this element ensures the fastest heating of the car interior.
  3. Three dampers. One of them is designed to close and open the heating channel, the second is used for recirculation, and the third is necessary to control the heater.
  4. The resistor device is designed to regulate the blowing speed.


Components of the heating system

Main parts of the heating system for the interior of a VAZ 2110 car:

  • 1 - electro-pneumatic valve device;
  • 2 — front housing of the air intake of the heating unit;
  • 3 - water deflector device, presented in the form of an air intake flap;
  • 4 — valve device for controlling the damper of the air flow recirculation system;
  • 5 — recirculation system damper;
  • 6 — rear part of the air intake housing of the heating unit;
  • 7 — heating channel damper;
  • 8 — damper of the heating unit control system;
  • 9 — radiator unit;
  • 10 - protective plastic casing of the radiator device;
  • 11 - bushing installed in the steam outlet pipe;
  • 12 — bushing for the supply line of the heating unit;
  • 13 — bushing of the outlet pipe;
  • 14 - electric motor of the heating system;
  • 15 — electric motor housing;
  • 16 - supporting surface of the damper drive lever used to control the stove;
  • 17 — drive handle for controlling the damper of the heating system;
  • 18 — gear motor of the drive device, presented in small sizes;
  • 19 - resistor element;
  • 20 - protective cover for the heating unit lining.


Connection diagram for blowers and controls

Main components of the stove:

  • 1 - air ducts designed to warm up the rear of the car;
  • 2 — plastic lining running from the center console to the rear seats;
  • 3 - blowers designed to blow feet;
  • 4 - main nozzles for ventilation of the car interior;
  • 5 — side nozzles for interior ventilation;
  • 6 — nozzles intended for heating the glass installed in the front doors;
  • 7 — control knob for the interior heating unit;
  • 8 — plastic housing of the air distribution device;
  • 9 — damper for the foot warming system;
  • 10 - plastic flap designed to warm up the windshield;
  • 11 - heating unit.

The difference between old and new stoves

Old and new type heating systems have some features in connection diagrams as a result of the following differences:

  1. Radiator design. Heats in cars of different years of manufacture have different radiator assembly designs. In older heating systems, radiators are equipped with taps to drain the refrigerant.
  2. Different designs of SAUO controllers. Cars manufactured before 2003 used five position controllers. In newer versions of the car, devices numbered 4 and 5 were removed from the design.
  3. Micro-gearbox design. The main difference is the different type of resistor elements. When replacing elements, you need to consider whether these parts are interchangeable or not.

conclusions

Thus, through far from the most complex manipulations, you can achieve a truly amazing effect. Just sealing the cracks of the VAZ 2110’s thermal channels can improve the temperature balance inside the interior of your car, not to mention a lot of simpler and more reliable methods.

Before you jump into upgrading your heating system, it’s still worth checking the operation of the stove itself. Do not forget to change the air filter of the VAZ 2110-2112 furnace every 15 thousand kilometers. Poor heating of the interior can also be caused by a faulty fan or a leaking coolant radiator.

Furnace electronic control unit

The electronic control unit includes:

  1. Controller handle. This device makes it possible to set the temperature in the cabin, which is produced by the stove unit. The controller handle sets the air temperature, which corresponds to that outside, and is turned on by turning the handle (up to 30 degrees Celsius). This part is usually called the ACS controller.
  2. The temperature sensor controls the activation of the heater when the air temperature in the cabin decreases by 2 degrees against the set one. The sensor has a microfan, and when the control knob is located in position A, a micromotor in the stove block turns on, after which the damper begins to operate, which ensures proper heating. Therefore, before repairing the heating system, you need to check the operation of this sensor. It is located near the heating lamp on the ceiling. Since its repair is not provided, if it breaks, this device must be replaced immediately.
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