How to change the thermostat on a VAZ car with your own hands


Purpose of the device

Thermostat for VAZ-2114 car

Essentially, a thermostat is a large valve whose task is to allow (or, conversely, not to allow) coolant into the car radiator . When the car's engine has just started, it remains cold for some time, as does the coolant. During this period of time, the thermostat valve is closed, so that the coolant is directed in the so-called small circle. And when the engine temperature reaches 90°C, the valve in the device automatically opens and the coolant begins to circulate in a large circle and enters the radiator. Thanks to this operating scheme, the engine temperature is kept at a constant level, and overheating is eliminated.

What do we get?

The warm-up duration is approximately the same, no significant difference was noticed. At 60 degrees, warm air is already subjectively felt.

After modernization, a constant stream of coolant appears, flowing through the steam removal hose into the expansion tank (in the standard version it is only present when the speed increases). This jet appears due to the fact that the diameter of the bypass hole in the new thermostat is smaller than in the old one. With increasing speed, as before, the jet increases. Closing the heater tap has almost no effect on the coolant pressure. There are no problems with pressure or leakage.

** – soon after installing the thermostat, the thermoelement was replaced, because the first one failed, see below.

Reasons for replacement

As mentioned above, the thermostat is a valve, and therefore it can get stuck open, closed, or in between. This is the main reason for replacing thermostats on the VAZ-2114, and each case of jamming of the device is dangerous in its own way.

  • If the thermostat valve is stuck in the closed position, this will cause the engine to heat up very quickly (especially when the car is used in the summer), since the coolant will constantly circulate only in a small circle.
  • If the valve is open all the time, another problem arises: the engine will take a very long time to warm up to operating temperature. And in thirty-degree frost it will be almost impossible to warm up the engine, since the liquid circulates in a large circle all the time and simply does not have time to warm up to the required temperature.
  • If the valve is stuck in an intermediate position, this can lead to engine problems.

Refinement of a budget car

You can install a thermostat from Granta to Priora. To do this, you will need to buy pipes, a gasket, a tee, a temperature sensor, studs, and antifreeze. Since the Granta, unlike the Priora, has a radiator located further from the engine, a long pipe will be required for tuning.

You can splice standard pipes. To do this, use the SOD pump pipe from the “ten”. A straight section with fasteners is cut off from it. Experts attribute the advantages of such tuning to the rapid warming up of the interior and engine; the operating temperature of the internal combustion engine fluctuates within 92°C.

In order to correctly modify the ODS on the VAZ 2110 and Priora, it is recommended to use a book on the operation of these vehicles.

If necessary, it is recommended to consult with auto mechanics.

Troubleshooting

Before changing the thermostat, you need to make sure that it is the one that is faulty. The ways to do this are listed below:

  • The engine starts and warms up for 10 minutes. Then the hood of the car opens, and the hand is carefully brought first to the upper and then to the lower radiator pipe. If the thermostat is in order, these pipes will not burn your hand and their temperature will be approximately the same. If the temperature of the pipes differs so much that it can be felt by a simple touch, then the thermostat is faulty.
  • The engine starts, after which the hood immediately opens and the hand is brought to the upper radiator pipe. When the thermostat is working properly, this pipe remains cold until the engine reaches operating temperature, that is, about 10-15 minutes (in the warm season). After this time, the pipe heats up very quickly and noticeably. If this does not happen, the thermostat is faulty.
  • And finally, the most time-consuming diagnostic method: the device is removed, placed in a container with water and a thermometer, after which the water is heated until the valve in the thermostat clicks. The temperature at which the valve operates is detected and based on it, conclusions are drawn about the operability of the device (in a working thermostat, the valve operates at a temperature of 90-95°C).

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Installation diagram for a 5-hole thermostat:


You can install a 6-hole thermostat instead of any 10 thermostat without modifications.

What will installing a 6-hole thermostat give?

  1. More stable coolant temperature
  2. More productive heater operation

For example, in winter at -25 degrees at idle, the engine warms up to 90 degrees with the heater running! (with the old thermostat this was basically impossible)

Approximate price: Thermostat (5 holes) from 800 rub. Thermostat (6 holes) from 350 rub.

DIY 6-hole thermostat installation

For any connection diagram you will need:

  1. Antifreeze – 3l (110 rub.)
  2. Thermostat – 1 pc. (from 350 rub.)
  3. Thermostat gasket – 1 pc.
  4. “Filler” hose (which goes from the tank to the thermostat) – 1 pc. (89r)
  5. Heater radiator supply hose (long straight) – 1 pc. (40r)
  6. Clamps 15-28mm – 4-6 pcs (9-15r)

How can I remove the thermostat without spilling coolant? We remove the pipe from the throttle assembly (DU), which goes to the saxophone. Slowly drain the coolant through it until it stops pouring. As a result, small losses will occur only when removing the radiator return.

Installation according to standard diagram Example of standard connection under the hood

Installation according to an alternative scheme Or like this

What is the point of reworking the connection of a 6-hole thermostat ? The meaning of the alteration is described in detail in the article “Zarulem”.

I will describe briefly: In the standard scheme, the thermoelement is washed with coolant from the engine and the main radiator, and in an alternative (modified) version it will also be washed from the stove.

In other words: In the standard connection, the thermostat opens for additional cooling. That is, its task is to monitor the temperature from the engine output (the hottest point of all circles), and not the temperature of the already cooled coolant. And in the modernized version , the thermostat checks a temperature lower than the engine temperature - from the bypass, into which the temperature of the stove outlet is mixed, but not the lowest (from the thermostat output), that is, not the one at the pump inlet. Thus , in winter, the thermostat will open later than in the standard circuit (circulation in a large circle will be at a higher engine temperature).

As a result, the thermostat will have an automatically variable opening point, depending on the performance of the stove (i.e., on the outside temperature). The colder it is outside and the harder the heater works, the later the thermostat opens.

Will the engine warm up faster with this connection diagram? It is unlikely that the engine warm-up time (output to

82 degrees) will decrease because the coolant speed through the stove has not changed, and the heat capacity of the cooling system and engine efficiency have remained unchanged.

Conclusion

Comparison of the old-style thermostat and the new one (6-hole)..

Source: xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai

Which thermostat to choose

To answer this question, it is important to understand one thing: saving on this device is strictly not recommended. A faulty thermostat leads to engine overheating. And overheating entails a lot of problems, the elimination of which can be very expensive. There are 2 brands of thermostats for the VAZ-2114, proven over the years, the quality of which car owners always speak well of:

  • LUZAR (Lugansk Automobile Radiator Plant).


    Thermostat for VAZ 2114 from LUZAR

  • WEEN (Poland).


    Polish thermostat from WEEN

It is strongly not recommended to buy Chinese-made thermostats for the VAZ-2114 (in particular, BAUTLER); you should also refrain from purchasing devices from PRAMO (Russia, Vladimir), despite the fact that Polish thermoelements are installed there. Both of these brands, although they work, are not durable.

Functions and operating principle

It is extremely important for a car to remove excess heat that accumulates in the engine. This is what coolant is primarily designed for.

To reduce this very temperature, the cooling system of the “fourteenth” VAZ model includes a thermostat and an electric cooling radiator fan .


Device diagram

The valve, which is responsible for the flow of coolant, is located inside the housing. It, in turn, has three pipes:

  • Input – goes to the pump;
  • Two outputs - from the radiator and the engine.

The valve located in the thermostat has a working element in the form of a solid filler that reacts to temperature. When heated, it acts on the piston and moves the main valve along the rubber insert. When heating occurs, the valve opens the piston, and when it cools, the hole closes, which prevents antifreeze or other coolant from entering the system.

Dismantling

First, remove the old thermostat, outlet pipe (part 2108-1303014-10) and 2 short intermediate hoses - all this will no longer be needed.

Next you need to deal with the pump supply pipe. The 2108 has a pipe “with a hook”, and the 21082 thermostat requires a shorter pipe, “without a hook”. You can replace the standard pipe with a pipe from either a VAZ-2110 or a VAZ-2112 (part 1303055). It was not possible to find out exactly which model the pipe was needed from - there is a fair amount of confusion in stores. When purchasing, you should carefully look at the correspondence of the fasteners and pipes on the pipe, incl. long heater pipe on the right - their presence and direction may differ.

But there is another option: shorten the standard pipe without even removing it. To do this, you need to cut about 45 mm from the pipe. This can be done with a metal file (namely, a piece of a file, without a handle), without removing the pipe. This will be the most time-consuming operation, but quite feasible. To simplify this procedure, it is worth removing the expansion tank and adsorber.

This is the option we will use. Looking ahead, I note that the option with a cut pipe works perfectly, including leaks. no in winter.

This completes the dismantling. You can clean the connections and check the hoses.

Tips before starting the procedure

  1. Before you begin removing the thermostat on a VAZ 2112, be sure to ensure that it has completely cooled down after operation.
  2. The thermostat is removed when it is replaced due to unstable engine temperature conditions (overheating, insufficient heating). To carry out this procedure, completely draining the coolant is not necessary.
  3. To check the condition of the thermostat, start the car engine and touch the lower radiator hose, at first it should remain cold, and only after the coolant temperature reaches about 90 degrees, the hose will begin to gradually heat up. If there is no such reaction to the manipulations performed, remove the thermostat from the car and check its functionality; if defects are detected, it must be replaced with a new one.

This is interesting: Scheduled maintenance for Mitsubishi Lancer X: regulations, cost, maintenance schedule

Springs

The design includes two springs. They help the valves “return” to their original position after the coolant has cooled, reliably isolating the two circulation circuits of the system from each other.

The thermostat itself is placed in a cylindrical housing with three pipes. Two are connected to different circulation circuits, the third to a water pump (pump).

Video showing how a thermostat works and is made:

Cylinder with wax

It occupies an important place in the design. It contains wax, which expands when heated. There is a rubber coupling in the cylinder cavity, and the inner end of the rod is located inside. Its outer part is located outside the cylinder.

When wax is heated to a certain temperature, it expands. In domestic VAZ models it is 80 degrees. The coupling with the rod is squeezed out, resting against the body.

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