Replacing the generator on a VAZ-2107 - main faults, how to change it yourself

Any modern car has a generator - a unit designed to generate energy that is used to power all electrical equipment. And domestically produced cars VAZ 2107 were no exception. How to connect a VAZ 2107 generator, what elements does this unit consist of and what is its principle of operation? You will find answers to these questions below.

Generator VAZ 2107: purpose and main functions

As with any other car, the generator on the “seven” works in tandem with a battery. That is, these are two power sources in the car, each of which is used in its own modes. And if the main task of the battery is to maintain the functionality of electronic devices during the period when the engine is turned off, then the generator, on the contrary, produces current only when the engine is running.

The main task of the generator set is to generate electrical energy by charging the battery. That is, in many ways (if not all) the performance of the machine depends on how well the generator and battery work.

Generator sets for the VAZ 2107 have been produced since 1982. Their factory marking is G-221A.


All VAZ classic cars, including model 2107, were equipped with G-221A generators

Technical characteristics of the generator G-221A

The VAZ 2107 was equipped with two types of generators (carburetor and injection), each of which had its own factory marking: 372.3701 or 9412.3701. Therefore, the operating characteristics of the devices may differ, since injection models consume more electricity, and accordingly, the generator power must be higher.

All VAZ 2107 generators have the same rated voltage - 14 V.


The generator for a carburetor car has modification 372.3701 and is made in an aluminum cast housing with steel fasteners

Table: comparison of characteristics of different modifications of generators for VAZ 2107

Generator nameMaximum output current, APower, WWeight, kg
VAZ 2107 carburetor557704,4
VAZ 2107 injector8011204,9

Specifications

Most often, the VAZ 2110 is equipped with a Katek generator, usually designated by the numbers 5102.3771, but it can also be 94.3701. Both generators have a power of 80 amperes, and the output voltage is about 14V. But recently Katek has been releasing a new type of generator, also suitable for the VAZ 2110.

It produces a current of up to 120 amperes, and is more suitable for the high energy loads of a modern car. By installing a 120-amp generator, you can ensure simultaneous uninterrupted operation of almost all electricity consumers.

What generators can be installed on the “seven”

The design of the VAZ 2107 allows the installation of not only the G-221A generator. Therefore, if necessary, the driver can install a more powerful device, however, this will require making some changes to the electrical circuit of the car. The question arises: what is the reason for the desire of a car enthusiast to change his “native” generator?

The G-221A was the optimal device for equipping cars at the beginning of their mass production. However, a lot of time has passed since the 1980s and today almost every driver uses modern electronic devices:

  • acoustic system;
  • navigators;
  • additional lighting devices (tuning), etc.


    Non-standard lighting devices consume the most electricity

Accordingly, the G-221A generator cannot cope with high loads, which is why drivers begin to look for more powerful units.

You can install at least three more powerful devices on the “seven”:

  • G-222 (generator from Lada Niva);
  • G-2108 (generator from the G8);
  • G-2107–3701010 (injection model for a carburetor car).

It is important that the last two models do not require changes in the design of either the generator housing or its mountings. When installing a generator from Niva, you will have to make some modifications.

Video: principle of operation of the generator

Connection diagram G-221A

Being an electronic device, the generator needs to be used correctly. Therefore, its connection diagram should not cause ambiguity. It should be noted that drivers of “sevens” can usually easily connect all the generator terminals themselves, since the circuit is accessible and understandable to everyone.


The generator (item 2) is connected to the circuit in series between the battery (item 1) and the mounting block (item 3)

Many car owners wonder where which wire should be connected when replacing the generator. The fact is that the device has several connectors and wires, and when replacing, you can easily forget which wire goes where:

  • orange is not useful for connection, it can be left as is or connected to gray directly to autostart the car;
  • a gray thick wire goes to the brushes from the relay regulator;
  • a gray thin wire connects to the relay;
  • yellow - coordinator of the control light on the control panel.

When working independently with the G-221A, it is better to sign the purpose of the wires so as not to connect them by mistake later.


To avoid errors, all wires have their own color designation

What to choose?

In terms of popularity and reliability, the first places are occupied by manufacturers Bosch (Bosch), Denso (Denso) and Delphi (Delphi). But you should know that Katek (KZATE) (made by us) are also quite reliable and do a good job of their duties on the VAZ 2110, creating the required voltage. Maybe somewhere they lose against Bosch, but compared to the Chinese they are at their best.

VAZ generators of the tenth family:

So it’s difficult to say for sure which generator is right for you; the best one is the one that provides the necessary power to operate electrical appliances and charge the battery. If we take the advantages that Katek clearly has, then this is sufficient reliability, and also - what is important - the availability of inexpensive spare parts for sale: you can always buy at least a fuse, a pulley, an armature, a voltage regulator, an excitation wire, etc.

A car generator is a mandatory element of the on-board network of any modern car, regardless of the type of engine and the fuel it consumes. It is he who provides energy to all systems and mechanisms that consume electric current.

In this article we will look at the design, technical characteristics and operating principle of the VAZ-2110 generator. In addition, we will talk about its malfunctions, diagnostic methods and troubleshooting methods.

The device of the VAZ 2107 generator

Structurally, the generator on the “seven” has the shape of a cylinder. The cast body contains many small parts, each of which performs its own functions. The main elements of the G-221A are the rotor, stator and covers, which are cast only from a special aluminum alloy.

Rotor

The G-221A rotor consists of a shaft with a corrugated surface, onto which a steel sleeve and poles are pressed. The bushing and beak-shaped poles together form the so-called core of the electromagnet. The core produces an electromagnetic field during the rotation of the rotor shaft.

The excitation winding is also located inside the rotor. It is placed between the poles.

The moving element of the rotor - the grooved shaft - rotates thanks to two ball bearings . The rear bearing is mounted directly on the shaft, and the front bearing is fixed on the generator cover.


The rotor is pressed into the generator winding and does not separate from it during disassembly

Stator

The stator is assembled from special plates 1 mm thick. The plates are made of electrical steel. It is in the stator slots that the three-phase winding is located. The winding coils (there are six in total) are made of copper wire. Strictly speaking, the electromagnetic field coming from the rotor core is converted by the coils into pure electricity.


Wire breaks or carbon deposits on its surface can affect current generation

Rectifier

The generator in the described configuration produces only alternating current, which is clearly not enough for the smooth operation of the car. Therefore, in the G-221A case there is a rectifier (or diode bridge), the main task of which is to convert alternating current into direct current.

The diode bridge has the shape of a horseshoe (for which it received the corresponding nickname among car enthusiasts) and is assembled from six silicon diodes. On the plate, three diodes have a positive charge and three have a negative charge. A contact bolt is installed in the center of the rectifier.


Structurally, the rectifier really looks like a horse's horseshoe

Voltage regulator

The voltage regulator on the VAZ 2107 is made together with a brush holder. The device is a non-separable unit and is fixed to the back cover of the generator. The regulator is designed to maintain the rated voltage in the network in any operating mode of the engine.


The regulator's electrical circuit controls the voltage in the device

Pulley

The pulley is not always considered an integral part of the generator, since it is mounted separately on an already assembled housing. The main task of a pulley is to transmit mechanical energy. As part of the generator, it is connected by a belt drive to the crankshaft and pump pulleys. Therefore, all three devices work in an inextricable connection with each other.


The pulley is mounted on the rotor shaft and connected by a belt drive to the corresponding parts of the pump and crankshaft

Generator faults

Unfortunately, mechanisms have not yet been invented that would not fail under the influence of time and constant loads. The VAZ 2107 generator is designed for many years of operation, but in some cases this is hampered by minor breakdowns and malfunctions of its components.

You can identify problems with the generator without the help of service station specialists: you just need to carefully monitor all the changes that occur with the car while driving.

The charging indicator light on the instrument panel came on

In the interior of the VAZ 2107, there is a terminal for several signaling devices on the dashboard. One of them is the battery charging indicator light. If it suddenly lights up red, it means there is not enough charge in the battery or there is a problem with the generator. But the alarm does not always indicate a problem with the generator itself; most often the lamp goes off for other reasons:

  • slipping of the generator belt drive - you will need to stop the machine and adjust the degree of belt tension;
  • there is damage in the warning lamp relay, so it does not work correctly - it is recommended to “ring” the relay in the mounting block and, if necessary, replace it;
  • breakage of contacts in the excitation winding is a more serious damage that requires removing the generator from the car, disassembling it and searching for a break;
  • severe wear of the brushes in the brush holder - they will need to be replaced, which is quite simple;
  • short circuit in the rectifier (most likely, one of the silicon diodes has burned out) - it is recommended to disassemble the generator, test the diodes and replace the failed element.


The driver will immediately notice the signal, as the lamp begins to glow bright red on the instrument panel

The battery is not charging

VAZ 2107 drivers often encounter this problem: the generator seems to be working properly, but there is no power to the battery. The problem may lie in the following malfunctions:

  • the alternator belt has stretched - you need to check the degree of its tension or replace it with a new one;
  • loosening the fastening of the wire tips - just tighten all the fastening connections and thoroughly clean the contacts and connectors;
  • malfunction of the battery itself;
  • Damage in the wiring - it is recommended to ring all the wires between the battery and the generator and replace the damaged areas.


If there is no charging, the problem may lie in both the generator and the battery.

The battery is boiling over

Battery boiling over is a sign that the battery does not have long life left. After this, the battery will not be able to function fully, so it will have to be replaced soon. However, so that the replacement does not lead to the same sad consequences, it is necessary to find the cause of the boiling, which may be:

  • contamination of the contact between the ground and the housing of the generator regulator - cleaning of the contact is necessary;
  • damage to the voltage regulator board itself - replacement of the board is recommended;
  • defective battery - if the battery began to boil away immediately after replacement.


It is better not to use the battery after boiling, as its resource is very limited.

When driving there is noise and grinding noise from the generator

The generator has a rotating rotor, so it must make noise during operation. However, if these sounds become increasingly loud and unnatural, you should understand the cause of their occurrence:

  • loosening the nut on the pulley - you need to tighten the nut and check the degree of belt tension;
  • deterioration of the bearings - in this case, the driver may hear a loud grinding noise and even a howl while driving; it will be necessary to press out the old bearings from the shaft and install new ones;
  • short circuit in the winding - the entire stator needs to be replaced;
  • creaking brushes - it is recommended to clean the brushes from adhering dirt.

How does it all work?

First you need to understand how everything works. So, on the VAZ-2107, the on-board network is powered from two sources - the battery and the generator. The first provides electricity to all consumers until the power plant is started. The battery itself is a storehouse of electrical charge, which it releases when needed.

A generator is a unit that generates electricity, but for this it is necessary that it perform a mechanical action (its rotor rotates). In order for the generator to operate and power the network, it is driven from the crankshaft via a belt drive.

Everything works simply: to start the engine, the battery energy is supplied to the power electric motor - the starter, as well as the ignition system. After the power plant starts, the generator will be driven by the drive, the generated energy of which will power all devices. It will also be supplied to the battery to restore the charge spent on starting the power plant.

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  • Battery won't charge

Recharging the battery from the generator must be carried out without fail, otherwise after several starts of the power plant, the loss of electricity in the battery will be significant (the battery runs out), and it will simply not be able to start the engine.

In order to monitor charging, a warning lamp and a voltmeter are installed on the dashboard of the VAZ-2107. Thanks to these control devices, it is possible to detect that the battery is not charging.

If the entire circuit through which the battery is recharged is in good condition, then after turning on the ignition, the charge indicator lamp lights up, but after starting the engine and entering the operating mode, it should go out, which indicates that voltage is supplied to the battery. In this case, the arrow on the voltmeter should be in the green zone, indicating that the voltage parameters correspond to the norm. But if, after starting the engine, the lamp lights up and “blinks”, while the arrow may twitch, this indicates a malfunction.

It should be immediately noted here that it often happens that the battery icon is on when the engine is running, but the voltmeter shows that charging is in progress. In general, the behavior of this system can be very different - charging is not happening, it is, but control devices show the opposite, recharging periodically disappears, but then is restored. In this case, there is a possibility of undercharging or overcharging, which are detrimental to the battery. A weak battery will eventually lead to it being completely discharged over time and making it impossible to start the car.

Generator check

Problems with the generator set can be avoided if the condition of this unit is periodically diagnosed. Checking the functionality of the generator gives the driver confidence that it is working properly and there is no cause for concern.

You cannot test the generator by disconnecting it from the battery while the engine is running. This is fraught with power surges and short circuits . The easiest way is to contact a service station specialist to check the functionality of the generator on a stand. However, convinced “seven guides” have long adapted to checking the G-221A on their own using a multimeter.

For diagnostics, you will need a multimeter of any type - digital or indicator. The only condition: the device must work correctly in both AC and DC measurement modes.

Operating procedure

Two people will be required to diagnose the generator's functionality. One of them should be in the cabin and, upon a signal, start the engine, the second should directly monitor the multimeter readings in different modes. The operating procedure will be as follows.

  1. Switch the device to constant current mode.
  2. With the engine turned off, connect the multimeter first to one terminal of the battery, then to the second. The network voltage should not be less than 11.9 and more than 12.6 V.
  3. After the initial measurement, start the engine.
  4. When starting the engine, the measurer must carefully monitor the instrument readings. If the voltage drops sharply and does not rise to operating condition, this indicates the exhaustion of the generator's life. If, on the contrary, the voltage indicator is higher than normal, then the battery will soon boil away. The best option is that when you start the engine, the voltage drops slightly and immediately recovers.


    If the voltage measured with the engine running is between 11.9 and 12.6 V, then the generator is ok

Video: procedure for checking a generator with a light bulb

Voltage regulator

The regulator performs the function of a kind of stabilizer. Thanks to it, the voltage of the vehicle’s on-board network is the same, regardless of the number of revolutions of the running engine.

Essentially, a regulator is a relay that closes and opens a circuit. It happens like this. The voltage dropped below the required value, or rose above the norm - the relay disconnected the generator from the network. The voltage has reached the desired range - the regulator connected the device.

There are no electromechanical elements in the VAZ-2110 generator relay. It is built on semiconductors. In addition, its design also includes a brush holder with brushes. It is almost impossible to repair the regulator on your own. It's easier to replace it with a new one.

Checking the functionality of the relay takes no more than five minutes. Yes, and there is no need to disassemble anything here. The diagnostic procedure is as follows.

  • We start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.
  • Turn on the low beam headlights and the heater fan.
  • Using a tester turned on in voltmeter mode, we measure the voltage at the battery terminals.

The voltage should not go beyond 13.2 - 14.7 V. If it is higher or lower, the relay is faulty.

A regulator is considered faulty if its brushes are damaged or excessively worn. The minimum length of brushes is 5 mm.

Generator set belt for VAZ 2107

The VAZ 2107 car was produced from 1982 to 2012. Initially, the model was equipped with a smooth drive belt (old model). Over time, the “seven” was modified several times and at the end of the 1990s, the generator began to work with a new type of belt with teeth.

The most popular among car owners are rubber products from the German company. These belts fit perfectly into the operation of a domestic car and serve for the entire period specified by the manufacturer.


The operation of the generator and the entire vehicle depends on the quality of the drive belt.

The design numbers and sizes of the belts are indicated in the vehicle’s service book:

  • 2101–1308020 (smooth surface), dimensions - 10.0x8.0x944.0 mm;
  • 2107–1308020 (toothed surface), dimensions - 10.7x8.0x944.0 mm.

How to tension a belt on a generator

The operation of the generator, as well as the water pump, primarily depends on the correct tension of the belt on the pulley. Therefore, existing rules cannot be neglected. The belt is installed and tensioned in the following order.

  1. Place the assembled generator in place, lightly tightening the fixing nuts.
  2. Take a pry bar and use it to fix the gap between the generator housing and the pump.
  3. Place the belt on the pulley.
  4. Without releasing pressure from the pry bar, pull the belt onto the pulley.
  5. Tighten the top nut securing the generator until it stops.
  6. Check the degree of belt tension - the rubber should not sag, but it should not be too tight.
  7. Tighten the lower nut securing the generator.


    A well-tensioned drive belt should give slight deflection when pressed, but not be excessively loose.

Video: how to tighten the alternator belt

Checking the degree of tension is done with two fingers. You need to press the free part of the belt and measure its deflection. The optimal deflection is 1–1.5 centimeters.

Thus, we can say that independent maintenance of the generator on a VAZ 2107 is quite possible and does not fall into the category of impossible tasks. It is important to follow the recommendations and algorithms for this or that work in order to carry out quality repairs or diagnostics. However, if you have doubts about your skills and abilities, you can always turn to professionals for help.

Open circuit (short circuit) in the windings

In a VAZ-2110, the generator may also fail due to a break (short circuit) in the rotor or stator windings. Such a malfunction does not bode well, since it is almost impossible to eliminate it on your own. Here you will need to either rewind the windings or replace the faulty element (rotor or stator).

Before checking the generator on the VAZ-2110, it will need to be removed from the car and disassembled. Let's start with the stator. We take the tester, turn it on in ohmmeter mode and measure the resistance between each winding terminal and the housing. For a working stator it should tend to infinity. If the device shows less than 50 kOhm, there is a short circuit in the winding.

Let's move on to the rotor. Here it is necessary to measure the resistance between the slip rings. It should be within a few ohms. If the resistance is close to zero, the winding turns are closed. If the device produces too high readings, a break may occur.

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