Tire end test for Renault Logan: original against Ashika, CTR, Flennor, Zekkert, Fenox, Torque, Lynx, Swag, FAG and Moog

Engine magazine continues to test the strength of automotive parts. This time we decided to check the steering tips for one of the most popular cars on the Russian market - Renault Logan . To do this, we purchased an original Renault and ten analogues of different price categories. Read on to find out what came of it.

So, the original Renault steering end with the original number 485202867R is used not only on the Logan and Sandero models, but also on the domestic analogue of the Romanian-French station wagon - Lada Largus. A good quality part is made in France and has a decent price: 1945 rubles.

Spare parts of the following brands were taken as analogues:

Test method

The test methodology is based on GOST R 52433-2005 “Automobile vehicles. Ball joints. Technical requirements and test methods”, which also applies to tie rods with ball joints (steering ends).

Tests related to the force of tearing and extrusion were carried out by applying a vertical load on a universal tensile-compression machine R20 in the laboratory of NPO Talis LLC; tests were also carried out there to test the anthers for frost resistance.

The minimum permissible values of the pullout force and the force of squeezing the pin out of the joint body are indicated in Appendix A to GOST, depending on the diameter of the ball pin. In this case, our steering tips have two pin sizes (22 and 25 mm), therefore, according to GOST, their minimum applied forces must differ. True, from a logical point of view, within the framework of applicability on the same car, this is not entirely true.

In the range of finger ball diameters from 21 to 24 mm, the minimum force for pulling out is 1500 kgf, for extrusion - 1900 kgf. For balls with a diameter of 24 to 27 mm - 2000 and 2500 kgf, respectively. The original ball joint did not come with a nut to attach it to the steering knuckle, so I had to use a heavy-duty Moog ball joint nut.

Having an original part in hand, we will consider its parameters as reference ones, since these are the characteristics that the manufacturer set for their car. In this case, we see that with a ball diameter of 22 mm, the pullout force is three times higher than the permissible values, which is the best result among all tested samples. But the extrusion force exactly corresponds to GOST, which is easily explained: the steering tip experiences minimal extrusion load in real driving conditions, in contrast to the breakout load when, for example, the car falls into a hole and the impact vector is directed from bottom to top.

The test results were mixed. Firstly, half of the manufacturers of non-original products make the ball diameter increased by 3 mm, which means that GOST standards for them will be increased. Secondly, for unknown reasons, some manufacturers, unlike the original Renault, showed the opposite endurance: with weak pullout rates, parts have a double pullout endurance, which is strange, since the steering tip almost does not experience such a load. One way or another, we decided to distribute the places according to the amount of points earned for tearing and extrusion, that is, according to the general parameter of the strength of the mechanism.

The leader in the measurements was the FAG steering end: the pull-out rate is two and a half times higher than GOST, the extrusion rate is twice as good. In second place is the Swag part, in third place is Lynx. Let us comment on the third place in more detail: the fact is that the Lynx tip showed a record breaking load of 5.3 tons, after which the thread of the part was cut off. However, taking into account the increased diameter of the ball, the load factor (2.65) of the spare part was still lower than that of the original, which withstood a threefold overload, while the thread remained intact.

The original Renault tip is formally in fourth place, but only because the extrusion parameter exactly corresponds to GOST - the automaker did not consider it necessary to make this characteristic more “hardy”.

With average performance, the Zekkert turned out to have rather weak metal - even with a double pullout load it cut off the thread.

Ashika and Fenox have average-to-consistent CTR scores, which is especially surprising for a respected CTR brand that regularly wins our tests. Well, the weakest are Torque, Moog and Flennor. The first one bent the metal under a not very heavy load, the second one did not pass the GOST standard for extrusion. The Flennor part, with a one-and-a-half-fold margin of strength for extrusion, also did not pass GOST standards for pull-out force, which means it is practically useless.

The best manufacturers of tie rod ends

Below is a list of the best tie rod end manufacturers. The rating is entirely based on the experience and reviews of car owners.

Lemforder

Description. The German manufacturer takes into account the complex designs of the tie rod and steering knuckle, producing reliable tie rod ends. The dimensions of the part are not very large, so it will not take up much space. Car owners note that the quality of Lemforder spare parts is often even superior to original analogues. By the way, such a tip will cost less.

Equipment. The tip is completed with fastening elements such as a clamp, bolt and nut.

Life time. The service life of Lemforder steering tips is 100,000-150,000 km.

Exceed the warranty service life (up to 200,000 km).
Uninterrupted operation after tens of thousands of kilometers.
Good quality.

There is a slight backlash.

Description. They are made of hardened steel and meet all regulatory requirements. Modern modifications use fingers hardened by high-frequency induction heating. This doubles their strength and their service life by five. The tip joint is equipped with an insert made of carbon fiber. The hybrid core reduces radial displacement by 40%.

MOOG uses a unique synthetic lubricant in the end bearings. The zinc lamellar protective coating ensures the part's resistance to corrosion.

Equipment. The MOOG kit includes metal retaining rings and a flange nut to increase clamping force. It is also coated with a zinc lamellar layer.

Life time. The guaranteed service life of MOOG steering ends is 75,000 km.

Excellent condition after tens of thousands of kilometers.
No backlash.
High-quality boot rubber.

Irregular shape in some modifications.

Description. The company produces reinforced designs that minimize the risk of a finger being pulled out. The manufacturer took special care of the seal of the boot, compressing it with two metal rings and adding an additional collar. All elements are subjected to high-quality mechanical processing. The surface of the tip is painted with high-quality enamel.

The thread of the finger is cut very high quality, without burrs. At the end of the finger there is a hole for a hexagon. The boot is made of high quality rubber. The hinge and pin are cast from one piece of metal. This reduces the risk of rupture, which happens with elements welded to each other.

Equipment. The TRW tip kit includes two nuts of strength class 10. One of them is flanged, the other is standard.

Life time. The service life of TRW tips is 40,000-70,000 km.

Full set.
Long service life.
High quality metal.

Backlash at speeds over 70 km/h.

Description. The casting of the tips has no roughness or burrs. The part is equipped with a high-quality hinge and an elastic rubber boot that prevents dirt, stones and water from getting inside.

The rubber is of very high quality, as evidenced by the complete absence of any unpleasant odor from the material. The boot is hermetically glued into the groove. The tightness of the rubber protection is ensured by a metal ring on the side of the finger, which is pressed tightly against the fist.

Spare parts comply with ISO 9001/9002 standards.

The metal elements of the tip are coated with an anti-corrosion layer.

Equipment. The kit includes a flange nut with a protective coating. CTR steering tips are not afraid of use on asphalt, dirt and crushed stone roads.

Life time. The guaranteed service life is 40,000 km.

Decent service life.
Quick installation.
Precise operation without knocking or play.

The weak point is the finger.

Description. RTS steering wheel ends can withstand use on almost any type of road. Parts are manufactured on robotic machines and equipment controlled by computer systems.

At the final stages of production, they are tested under long-term loads, high and low temperatures. Durable metal and high-quality anthers guarantee a long service life of the tip.

The Spanish concern produces spare parts certified according to the ISO9000 standard.

Equipment. A mounting nut is included with the RTS tie rod ends.

Life time. The service life of the element is 50,000 km.

Price-quality ratio.
Long service life.
Comfortable driving.

A small amount of lubricant from the factory.

Description. NK steering ends are made of high quality steel and coated with anti-corrosion protection. The boot is made of durable rubber and is hermetically seated in the groove.

Spare parts of this concern have an international quality certificate ISO 9001.

Equipment. A high-strength flange nut is included with the part.

Life time. The manufacturer guarantees a long service life of the tips. It ranges from 40,000-70,000 km.

Price-quality ratio.
Trouble-free operation over long runs.
Strong anthers.

There is a possibility of getting a fake.

Freezing anthers

According to established custom, we are expanding the test methodology and testing pre-removed rubber boots of steering tips for frost resistance. The parts are kept at a temperature of –40 °C for 24 hours, followed by testing for loss of elasticity, since the tip is guaranteed to fail if sand, dirt and salt, which are sprinkled on winter roads, get inside the joint.

By the way, it is worth mentioning separately that only the original Renault part and the CTR boot have metal rings inside to ensure a tighter fit to the ball pin, for which both can be given a point. For FAG, the protective boot is made of transparent polyurethane. Most manufacturers have CR markings on their anthers, which indicates that these covers are made of chloroprene rubber.

To our surprise and to the honor of the manufacturers, all tested samples successfully withstood the temperature of –40 °C, so in most regions of our country the anthers will withstand weather conditions.

However, we decided to subject the parts to extreme stress and lowered the temperature to -50 ° C. Only four parts were able to withstand this figure - Renault, FAG, Lynx and Zekkert, to which we assign an additional point. The CTR held on until the last, opening up like a rose, but without losing a single piece of rubber. The remaining anthers scattered.

FakeHeader

Comments 65

I took this one on the existential: Lemforder 11856 02 (Axial joint, steering linkage) - it fit like original, from a Lancer, it seems. I have an example 2006 1.8 liter Mileage 20-30 thousand, everything is fine, nothing knocks.

Cool) well, the company is reputable.

Just not febest

At the existential stage, only China was offered.

There are no original rods for our car! only together in the slats! This is not the first time I’ve taken KAGER. They take care of about 40-50 thousand, on a low profile!

I installed MOOG traction rods on mine, they have been alive for more than a year, even though we have no roads.

At the existential stage, only China was offered.

I installed the original for myself. 2 years already without problems. I just changed the tips.

What kind of original is this and where did you get it?

www.drive2.ru/l/1223113/ look, I have the original number there, I ordered from the store back then and I don’t know what suppliers they have! Probably exist because most stores work with them

At the existential stage, only China was offered.

Sad then! Have to search

Well, I found a person who has a choice)

Great! Then the choice is yours!

Well, yes, I’m thinking about changing the tips too or not...

Chemical analysis of metal

The final part of the tests in accordance with GOST requirements is chemical analysis and determination of the steel grade for the ball pin. To do this, we transferred the previously torn fingers from the hinges to the accredited laboratory of the Volna Plant NPO, which has at its disposal a DFS-500 spectrometer to recognize the amount of each alloying or deteriorating element in the steel composition.

The obtained result showed that in almost all the studied ball joints of steering tips, structural alloy steels within 40X with a chromium content of about 1% and manganese within 0.7% are used. The Lynx and Zekkert tips (the only ones whose threads were cut off) did not show any deviations in the metal, as did the bent Torque. For the CTR ball end, the ball pin is made of 35ХМ steel - in addition to chromium and manganese, molybdenum is added to the alloy as an alloying additive, which increases strength and wear resistance.

Other tie rod comparisons

If this comparison does not satisfy your curiosity, then you can also find many others on PartReview.

For example, comparisons of steering rods 555 with such companies as:

Comparisons of CTR steering rods with such companies as:

In addition, you can find out who is better among other steering rod manufacturers:

Lemforder or CTR,

What's the result?

In terms of the total points earned, first place is unconditionally occupied by the FAG steering end from the German giant Schaeffler: not a single weak point in all the measurements taken.

In second position remains the Swag part from another German concern Bilstein Group - however, with the allowance for the fact that the boot may not withstand a very harsh winter.

On the third step with an equal number of points are the original Renault and the tip from Lynx. The native French part has a record for breakout parameters, a competent protective design and resistance to any frost, although it has the highest price. The Lynx part also has excellent pull-out strength and frost resistance.

In general, the total indicators of two more brands - Zekkert and CTR - are also quite good. The latter received an extra point for the protective design of the boot. Flennor and Moog parts did not meet GOST standards and could not withstand severe frosts. The rest performed to varying degrees below average.

The magazine "Engine" expresses gratitude to the laboratory of NPO "Talis" for their assistance in preparing and conducting the test.

What are tie rods and tie rods for?

In the vehicle control system, a steering rod is necessary to transmit the force (rotation) of the steering wheel to the steering knuckles of the wheels. The tie rod end joints ensure free rotation of all moving drive parts. The force on the wheels corresponding to a given angle of rotation is transmitted directly by the drive.

The complex mechanism of the steering system design is explained by the fact that when turning, each wheel must be set to a different angle. If the angle of rotation were the same, then during maneuvers the inner wheel would slip, leading to wear of the rubber itself and a decrease in the controllability of the car.

Different angles of rotation are achieved thanks to the special design of the steering part of the car, which includes rods, hinges and swing arms. The angle of rotation directly depends on the angle of inclination of the levers.

Posts 1 page 30 of 75

Share12009-05-13 12:36:14

Author: Denver
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I am choosing duplicate tie rod ends QJB 100220 and 100230.. I am not considering Optimal and NK.. Delphi, MAPCO and QUINTON HAZELL - who should I prefer? There are also HL Group Oy and Bearmach, but whose tips are sold under their labels – I don’t know..

It would be necessary to create a rating of companies producing duplicates based on quality

Share22009-05-13 14:59:18

Author: KIO
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There are also HL Group Oy and Bearmach

Bearmach is a supplier for Land Rover, so it can be considered the original.

Share32009-05-13 15:21:04

Author: Roman
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-First of all, a packer. The price will be higher.

Share42009-05-13 20:29:30

Author: KVK
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I don’t consider Optimal and NK.. Delphi, MAPCO and QUINTON HAZELL – who should I prefer? There are also HL Group Oy and Bearmach, but whose tips are sold under their labels – I don’t know..

Share52009-05-13 21:09:28

Author: KIO
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Yes, that's what I meant.

Share62009-05-14 04:30:33

Author: Denver
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Bearmach is a supplier for Land Rover, so it can be considered the original.

Under the Bearmach label there are parts from other manufacturers...

A little about the same: Wheel bearings

I read... the general direction is clear, but the specifics are a little different...

Share72009-05-14 08:17:39

Author: KIO
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I ordered one part from Bearmach. When it arrives, I’ll see what’s in the box. For some reason I thought that Bearmach was packing for the Republic of Latvia. Therefore, the part numbers for the LR and Bearmach are the same. The only thing is that supplies for the Republic of Latvia may include parts from one manufacturer, while those sold by Bearmach are the same, but from another. But this is my guess.

Share82009-05-19 06:40:27

Author: Denver
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I looked at the old launch vehicles, they were original, they were branded TRW. I couldn’t find any TRW tips for sale.

I'll take SIDEM..

Edited by Denver (2009-05-19 08:09:31)

Share92009-06-08 21:27:15

Author: kobra131
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The other day I changed both tips. They were TRW and replaced them with Delphi for 20 bucks. On TRW there is a recess for a hexagon on the finger, but not here!

Share102009-06-29 13:37:31

Author: T141EP rus52
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Is the right or left tip determined as the machine moves? Do you mean sitting behind the wheel and looking forward?

Share112009-06-29 13:45:37

Author: KVK
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Right-left - always looks in the direction of the car.

Share122009-06-29 23:02:47

Author: serb65
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I didn’t worry, I bought cheap ones for 660 rubles, I forgot the name of the year, the flight is normal

Share132009-07-27 12:17:47

Author: Denver
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I took Sidem tips, 65134-left, 65135-right.. Made well.. Compared with relatives (TRW-black in the photo) - Sidem is no worse.. Sidem's tip weighs 406 g, TRV - 368.. Sidem's is more metal-intensive

Sidem is not bad at all, if we consider manufacturers in the middle price category.. There is a company called Arwidson Oy, and so it sells Sidem products (by chassis), 42 is added before the Sidem code and you get a code from JSC.. the difference in price is 150-200 rubles ( regarding existentialism)..

Edited by Denver (2009-07-27 12:18:30)

Branded spare part or fake

The problem of choosing a branded spare part is acute. For example, CTR and MOOG products do not receive the best reviews because they are the ones most often counterfeited. You can recognize a good branded spare part by:

Box. Pay attention not only to the original design (you can find photos on the Internet), but also to the material. This is corrugated cardboard. Today, more and more often you can find a fake inside a box made of the same cardboard, so let's move on;
Inner packing details. The steering gear parts are inside a tightly sealed bag;
The quality of the metal and additional elements. No burrs, scuffs, or technically unreasonable edges. Also, branded spare parts do not have unnecessary locking rings or castle nuts. For example, a real CTR can be identified by its self-locking nuts;
Markings. Pay attention to the markings on the box and the part itself, barcodes for scanning and checking on the manufacturer’s website. Also, on the box with the original spare part there is always a hologram that is almost impossible to peel off with your fingers - just pry it with a knife and tear it off;
Zavaltsovka. Pay attention to the place of rolling - there should be no burrs in its place.

Today, distinguishing an original from a fake is not so difficult if you have a smartphone at hand. It is enough to check the spare part using the barcode. If you take a part from a little-known company that has not taken care of the Internet integration of products and its own electronic catalog, then you are almost certainly not taking a product of the highest quality.

Comparison table of characteristics

Based on the characteristics presented above, we have compiled a comparison table that will make it easier to understand and understand what is best for you.

Model	A country	Warranty (months)	Mileage (km)	Price, rub.)
CTR Suspension	South Korea	6	100 000	from 397 to 4,284
Lemforder	Germany	12	70 000	from 421 to 4,580
Delphi	USA	12	80 000	from 420 to 9 165
TRACK	Russia	24	50 000	from 320 to 1,040
BelMag	Russia	36	up to 65,000	from 364 to 1,245

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Active user

I propose a topic so that everyone can immediately see which spare parts are better and which ones should not be taken. First, I’ll put it here by category, and you add your reviews about good/bad manufacturers

There are companies whose spare parts can be said with a fairly high degree of probability that they are of good quality. These are Lmi, Boge, Behr, Ate, Lucas, Remsa, Jurid, Hella, Sachs, Bilstein (with reservations), K+F, Kilen, TRW, Pagid, Brembo, AKG, Gates, Contitech, Knecht, Mann, INA, SKF , (VDO Siemens), Pierburg, Kolbenschmidt, SM,SWF ZF, Valeo, LUK, Votex, LESJOFORS, Dayco, Beru, Eyquem.

Liquids – Phoebe, Pentosin. Hepu

There are companies whose spare parts can be said with a fairly high degree of probability that they are of poor or disgusting quality. These are Febi, Meyle, HP (partly), Gabriel, Alko, Optimal, Bosal Ruville, Filtron, ATS, SFEC.

As far as we know, FEBI and RUVILLE are packers whose boxes can contain anything.

Body

Tin and Plastic Good: Van Wezel, Schlieckmann. Not bad: Johns, Klokkerholm Not good: Signeda, Bodyparts, Api, TYC (All CHINA).

Hood shock absorbers Good: Stabilus (most often in the original) Not good: Dello, Meyle

Windshield Good: Asashi, Nordglass, EUROCODE, Pilkington, Securit (most often in the original), Splintex Not good: Sigma, Tyg

Main bearings, connecting rod Good: Kolbenschmidt

Connecting rods Good: Original, Autowelt

Hydraulic valve compensators Good: INA (most often in the original) Not good: Ajusa

Valves Good: Kolbenschmidt, TRW

Probe holder good: Original Not good: Topran, Hansprise, Jp group

Piston rings Good: Kolbenschmidt, Goetze, Mahle Not good: Autowelt

Engine mounts: Good: Boge, Lemforder (most often in the original), Corteco. Not good: Meyle, FEBI, Topran, Hansprise

Pistons Good: Kolbenschmidt, Mahle, Nural

Gaskets Good: Glaser, Victor Reinz Elring (If France) So-so: Glaser (Spain) Not good: Topran AJUSA and everything else

Timing belt Good: Contitech, Dayco (most often in the original), Gates Not good: Febi/Bilschtein, Ruville and everything else

Timing belt rollers Good: Lemforder, SKF, INA (in the original most often) Not good: Meyle, In the febi and ruville box there is always the same INA

Seals and Caps Good: Victor Reinz, Glaser, Elring (French), Goetze Not good: Elring (Germany)

Oil pump Good: original Not good: Dello; Meyle

Oil filter Good: Knecht (Mahle), Mann, Champion, Clean, BOSCH, Kolbenschmidt Not good: Filtron, ALCO, FRAM, Meyle, Hansprice, Sfec, Filtron and others

Cooling and ventilation system

Branch pipes, barrels. flanges, tees for sensors The best is the Original

Fan sensor Good: Hella/Behr, Lucas/TRW, Wahler Not good: Meyle

Water pump Good: KolbenShmidt, HEPU (Metal impeller) Valeo, Quinton Hazell, SKF, GRAF (Metal impeller), Not good: Dolz, FEBI, RUVILLE, Airtex, Pex

Cooling radiator Good: AVA, Behr, Valeo, HELLA Not good FEBI

Heater radiator good: Hella, behr, valeo Not very AVA

Expansion tank Good: Meyle Not good: Topran

Thermostat Good: Behr Wahler (in the original most often) Not good: Sfec febi

Engine air filter Good: Knecht (Mahle), Mann, Champion, Bosch H&K Not good: Delphi, alco, fram, meyle, SCT,

Cabin filter Good: Clean, knecht, bosch Not good: SCT, fram, alco, filtron

Power supply and exhaust systems

Fuel filter Good: Knect mahle The original does not differ much in price Not good: Filtron, Meyle, Fram, SCT

Gearbox filter Original only Not good: FEBI, HansPrice, Meyle

Muffler Good: Walker (Fonos), Ernst (in the original most often) Not good: Ferroz, Bosal, Arvintesh.

Muffler suspension cushion Good: Walker Not good: JP Group, Hanse Prize

Fuel pump Good: VDO, Pierburg (original most often), Bosch (if not a fake) Not good: Delphi, Sfec, Jurid, SCT

CV boot Good: GKN-Spidan, Loebro, Lemforder Not good: Sfec febi

How to check a ball joint?

In most cases, the pin with the ball pops out of the support body when moving from a standstill and at low speed. At high speed on the highway, such incidents most often lead to tragic consequences. Therefore, the driver must know how to check the ball joint on his own car.

No lift. You should install and secure the car on a hard-surfaced area, jack it up and remove the wheel. Place a wooden or metal stand under the lower control arm and lower the vehicle. By moving the trunnion from top to bottom with your hands, it is easy to determine the presence or absence of play.
Using a lift. The suspension springs are compressed under the weight of the vehicle. It is enough to install the pry bar by applying several sharp pressures between the pin and the lever. The presence of play in the pin will indicate a malfunction of the support.
With dismantling and disassembly. In order to check the technical condition of the ball joint removed from the car, it is enough to turn it to one side. If in this state the upper end of the finger sank under its own weight, then the support resource is almost exhausted and play will soon appear. It is better to replace such a support immediately.