Alternator belt tensioner VAZ 2110 8 valves

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Tensioning the VAZ 2110 alternator belt is a mandatory procedure not only after replacing the “gene” belt, but also periodically during operation (the degree of belt tension is checked every 10 thousand km). Tensioning or loosening the VAZ 2110-2112 generator drive belt is quite simple (there is a special bolt for this). To establish sufficient tension in the generator belt, you must first loosen the two fastening bolts, and then adjust the degree of tension by adjusting the tensioner. The manual says very abstrusely - “when exposed to a force of 100 Newtons (10 kgf), the belt should bend between the pulleys by 1.5 cm, but in practice, the belt tension first occurs by eye, and then is adjusted depending on how well the gene copes with load when electrical appliances are turned on. After completing the procedure, do not forget to tighten the generator mounting bolts.

There are times when when the car gets into a puddle, or simply when there is high humidity, the alternator belt begins to whistle. Often the reason lies precisely in insufficient tension. Of course, to fix this problem, you just need to tighten the belt to the desired level.

The tool you will need to solve this problem:

Head for 10 and 13 mm
Ratchet handle

So, depending on the VAZ 2110-2112 model and the installed engines, the design of the alternator belt tensioner may differ slightly. But in essence, there is not much difference and everything is done by analogy.

So, open the hood of the car and look towards where the generator is located.
Loosen the top nut securing the generator and use the adjusting bolt to tighten it

Why does the whistle occur?

There are several reasons why the characteristic whistle-like sound occurs.

Weak tension. The element slips, and this happens most actively at night. The increased intensity of the whistle at night is explained by the fact that the generator additionally works for lighting.
Gradually the component is destroyed. The belt can dry out, causing its structure to be disrupted and it literally crumbles into pieces. The first signs are cracks, and then whole pieces break off. When moving, the pulley hits and slipping begins. Only replacement is required here.
Although moisture gets on the belt very rarely and evaporates almost immediately, the connection can still whistle. In this situation, tension is required.
The generator itself jams.

labavto.com

Any driver understands that in order to drive a car, in addition to the fuel in the tank, it also needs electricity. An engine equipped with a generator can produce electricity on its own.

You need to know that the generator drive plays an extremely important role in the operation of the on-board equipment of the vehicle, since it specifically transmits torque from the crankshaft to the generator. A torn, loose or incorrectly sized belt can cause the battery to be undercharged during operation and, as a result, fail.

Location of the system on the VAZ 2110

Performing tension

If there is no wear on the V-belt drive, but there is a whistle, first of all, check the tension level. We will not use complex terminology, but will simply advise you to press with some force on the belt in the middle.

If the tension is done correctly, then the belt will bend no more than 8 millimeters. If the deflection is greater, then the element will have to be tensioned, and if it practically does not deflect, the tension will have to be loosened. The problem is not the whistling. Due to weak tension, the battery does not charge effectively, and the drive itself begins to wear out faster. Excessive tension can lead to damage to the alternator bearings and stretching of the belt.

Correct tension of the VAZ 2110 generator belt is performed as follows:

Loosen the generator from the bottom and top. A nut is used for this;
Turn the adjusting bolt and adjust the belt;
If you want to increase the tension, the bolt is turned to the right. Thus, you move the generator away from the cylinder block;
To loosen the tension, move in the opposite direction - to the left;
Use a wrench to grab the fastening bolt and turn the crankshaft a couple of turns, then check the tension;
If all is well, the tension is correct, the nut can be tightened back.

Dimensions

It is quite possible that you have selected the wrong alternator belt size for your 16 valve VAZ 2110. This often causes whistling. The correct size of the alternator belt for the 8 valve VAZ 2110 should be determined in advance, even before going to the auto parts store.

The sizes are different, and they are individual for each VAZ model.

If we talk specifically about the “ten”, then adhere to the following rules for choosing a belt size:

In the absence of air conditioning and power steering, 742 millimeters is suitable;
If the car is equipped with a hydraulic booster, then the size will be 1115 millimeters;
If an air conditioner is also present, then the optimal size is 1125 millimeters.

Some craftsmen regularly use original belts from other AvtoVAZ models - Priora and Kalina - to replace them when repairing their "ten".

Replacement

We have already figured out how to tighten the alternator belt. But such measures are not always relevant. If the element is cracked, overstretched and no longer tensioned, then there is nothing left to do but replace it with a new one.

In fact, replacement cannot be called a complex procedure. Follow the instructions and everything will work out.

Slightly loosen the bolt nut from the lower mounting of the car generator, as well as the tension nut.
Loosen the tension of your belt further. You already know how to do this from the previous section, where we talked about tensioning the alternator belt.
Move the generator towards the power unit, which will allow you to remove the belt from the crankshaft and generator pulleys.
The next step is to install a new element. To do this, you will need a high-quality belt purchased from a trusted store. What exactly this part will be and what size it will be is not difficult to determine. But quality comes first.
First, the belt is put on the crankshaft pulley.
Now it goes to the generator pulley.
At the last stage, you have to repeat the tension adjustment procedure. You already know very well how this procedure is carried out, so there should be no problems.

Replacing the alternator belt, replacing and lubricating the alternator belt tensioner roller VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

Replacing the alternator belt without power steering VAZ 2112

I began to notice that often, when the engine was started for the first time, the alternator belt began to whistle. I started watching the battery light on the dash, but it didn’t come on. I consoled myself that the humidity might have weakened the strap a little... A week passed when suddenly the power steering seemed to turn off for a couple of seconds. At first I thought the car had stalled, but no. I stopped, opened the hood and went straight to the alternator belt... And there were threads sticking out of it and one side was completely worn out. Apparently, the idiots from the service department who changed the timing belt “for free” replaced the alternator belt; one track did not fit into place. And they probably thought that he would drop by later. And this very path was eaten by the rollers.

I went to the car market, bought a new strap for 600 rubles (I didn’t know the prices and don’t know now, but I didn’t want to waste time looking for a cheap one or alternatives, and I wasn’t in the mood). I approached the seller: “alternator belt for two cars, 1.6 liter engine, 16 valves with power steering.” – 620 rubles. - Let's.

I looked online for instructions on how to replace the belt on 12s with power steering. I heard that there are some nuances, that it is necessary to remove the engine from the mount. I ran through the forums, printed out the main points and headed to the garage. Now after last night I say: “This is 3.14... if you don’t know, then don’t write your advice on the forum. If you have an 8th grade, then you don’t have to say that on a 16-valve with power steering everything is the same as on an 8th, you just need to remove it from the pillow.” Yes, everything is written clearly: here are the instructions that I found and to which it was signed “you just need to remove the engine from the mount.”

We removed the adsorber and the reservoir with power steering fluid from their mounts so as not to interfere.

We unscrewed the lock nut with a 13mm wrench.

(photo from the Internet, a lock nut with a shackle where the hose from the reservoir with power steering fluid is attached to a clamp)

They started looking for the tension bolt, but there wasn’t one! Maybe someone has a VAZ-21124, but we searched all around without success. Moreover, on one of the forums, one of those discussing it also unsuccessfully tried to find this bolt, and another participant, foaming at the mouth, proved that the bolt was 100% there.

I will not dwell on the discussion of the forums and will continue to explain how we changed the strap.

So, 1) Using a 13mm wrench, loosen the nut securing the generator to the mounting plate. Now the generator can be pushed towards the engine, loosening the belt tension.

2) Then, having examined the rollers, one turned out to be very similar to the tension one, they tried to loosen it and that’s it! Loosen the TENSION ROLLER.

Now the strap has loosened even more and should come off the rollers with ease.

3) Now you need to remove the engine from the support. To do this, you need to unscrew 2 bolts.

4) Now we raise the engine. We lifted it with a regular hydraulic jack, sliding it under the crankcase. The engine mount will rise and the belt can be pulled out.

5) Now we insert a new strap under the engine support. And we begin the reassembly.

6) We clamped the tension roller in its extreme position (corresponding to the minimum belt tension).

7) The generator was also moved to the most extreme position (as close as possible to the engine).

Now the hard part is getting the new belt onto the rollers... The main thing is to wrap it tightly around all the rollers before pulling it onto the last one (we pulled it onto the tension roller). We lubricated it a little with WD40 to make it climb more confidently. Using 4 hands, using a hammer, a pry bar and a board, they threw the strap onto the tension roller. We suffered for 20-30 minutes.

It turns out that there is a special key that is used to adjust timing belts and generators. This is probably him:

I think it will greatly facilitate the process, but we didn’t have it and I learned about its existence later.

9) When the strap is on rollers, you can start tightening.

We did this: using the handle of a hammer, I pulled the tension roller with force and fixed it in this position. Then they tightened the bolt with the locknut, which was loosened and the generator was in its extreme position (closer to the engine).

In theory, it probably should have been done differently... Pull the generator as far as possible from the engine (tensioning the belt a little) and fix it first, and then work with the tension roller.

When starting the engine and releasing the gas (gas - throwing gas), the strap should oscillate and flop around a little. If at the same time it still does not whistle, then the tension can be left as is.

10) Next, we collect the remains: we put in place the adsorber, the reservoir with power steering fluid, screw the clamp to the bolt with a lock nut, and do not forget to put the chip on the adsorber in place.

So, conclusions and features of replacing the alternator belt on a VAZ with power steering

: 1) It is necessary to lift the engine from the support and remove/install the strap under the pillow. 2) The belt tension was adjusted (in my case) using a tension roller. NO tension bolt! 3) The main thing is not to overdo it with belt tension. 4) I saw disputes about the size (length) of the belt. I installed this one on my VAZ 21124 with power steering:

Replacing the alternator belt without power steering VAZ 2112

I was driving a couple of days ago for no apparent reason, a whistle coming from under the hood, I stopped, I opened the hood, everything was fine, I know that there cannot be a global breakdown, the car is technically sound and the timing belt was changed two weeks before this incident. I decided to turn off the engine after a couple of minutes, I started the car normally, it was running quietly as before, I wondered what it could be, when I arrived home, I looked at everything carefully, it turned out that the Alternator belt was slipping, the next day I went to the auto store and bought a new Belt for 250 rubles. Arriving home, the first thing I did was prepare the necessary tools: a wrench for “13”, a wrench for “10” and the belt itself. Everything is very simple: 1. Using a “13” wrench, loosen the generator mounting nut. 2. We turn the adjusting bolt with a wrench to “10”; it loosens the tension of the generator drive belt. Now we try if the generator moves towards the cylinder block (move towards the engine), then remove the old belt and tighten the new one, and rotate the adjusting bolt in the reverse order. 3. And if the tension of the generator drive belt has not weakened, as in my case, then there is another bolt under the generator that prevents the generator from moving. We unscrew it with a key to “10” and move the generator towards the engine. The belt is now well loosened and can easily come off the rollers. One of the most difficult parts is tensioning the belt while getting into the rollers, so that after a couple of weeks it doesn’t start to creep. Once you are on the rollers, you can begin to tighten the belt and pull the generator as far away from the engine as possible. 1. Tighten the adjusting bolt with a wrench to “10”; it will secure the tension of the generator drive belt. 2. Use a key set to “13” to secure the generator mounting nut. Now we start the engine and start degassing; this requires gas, for example, 3000-4000 thousand revolutions, releasing the gas to 500-1500 thousand revolutions, and so on for a couple of minutes. Then we turned off the engine, got out and looked at how our new belt is in the rollers and whether it is sitting too loosely (there should be no whistling) if it whistles, it means the generator is loosely tensioned. 3. Don’t forget to tighten the last bolt, which is located under the generator.

Motorists Council

As practice shows, many experienced VAZ 2110 drivers, who have been driving this particular model for many years now, carry an additional alternator belt with them in the trunk. This is due to the fact that its breakdown can occur at the most inopportune moment. This node cannot be called the weakest point of the “ten”, but problems may arise with it. And it is better for you to be prepared for such a situation.

Otherwise, you will have to call a tow truck, go to the nearest service station, and pay a lot of money for the services of specialists. Although, if you have a spare alternator belt and a standard set of tools, if it breaks, you would spend literally a couple of tens of minutes and calmly continue driving with a new belt. Because the choice is always yours!

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Replacing the alternator belt, replacing and lubricating the alternator belt tensioner roller VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112

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