Hub repair for VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107

Removing and replacing the front wheel bearing on VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107

Hello, in this article you will learn how to replace the front wheel bearing on a VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107. The wheel bearing is replaced if a hum begins to be heard from the wheel while driving. To determine which bearing has failed, you need to hang the wheel and rock it in different planes. If the wheel has play when swinging in some plane, then the wheel bearing has become unusable and needs to be replaced. Prolonged driving with a bearing that is not worn out can cause the wheel to jam, so there is no point in delaying it. The price of a new wheel bearing is about 500 rubles. For this operation you will need: a 17 and 27 socket, a key or a deep 7 socket, a flat screwdriver, a vice. First, loosen the hub nut with a 27 mm socket.

Then we remove the wheel, unscrew the hub nut completely, remove the washer and the outer bearing separator with rollers

Now unscrew and remove the brake caliper from the brake disc. Next, pull out the brake disc along with the hub.

From the back of the brake disc, pry it up with a screwdriver and remove the oil seal and the inner bearing separator

We also remove the split spacer bushing.

Then use a socket or a 7mm wrench to unscrew the brake disc pins and disconnect the hub

After this, we clamp the hub in a vice and use a drift to knock out the inner bearing ring from the hub.

Before pressing in a new wheel bearing, its seat must be cleaned and lubricated. We press the outer ring of the bearing in a vice through the rings from the old bearings

The new oil seal can be pressed in using a hammer and pry bar

We put everything back together in reverse order. It is recommended to tighten the hub nut with a new one.

What bearings to put

When a wheel bearing requires replacement, the question immediately arises of which part to install. Many people advise using original components. However, today the quality of parts leaves much to be desired and the issue of choice remains quite relevant.

Table: type, installation location, and size of bearings

Manufacturer's choice

When choosing a manufacturer of a wheel bearing for a VAZ “Seven”, we can recommend SKF , SNR, FAG, NTN, Koyo, INA, NSK. The companies listed have many locations around the world. These products are of high quality and meet the most stringent requirements.

Among the domestic manufacturers that supply bearings for cars of the Togliatti plant, we can highlight:

• CJSC "LADA Image" - manufactures and sells original Lada wheel bearings through secondary markets;
• Saratov plant - produces parts under the SPZ brand;
• Volzhsky Plant - uses the Volzhsky Standard brand;
• Vologda plant - sells products under the VBF brand;
• Samara plant SPZ-9.

Replacement of the VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106 hub and replacement of the VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106 hub bearing.

Replacing the hub of VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106

and replacing the wheel bearing for VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106, the procedure is absolutely the same.

This article will discuss replacing the VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106 hub and replacing the VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106 wheel bearing . Also from this article you will learn about a simple and effective method for checking the wheel bearing adjustment of VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106.

1. After hanging the front wheel, remove it.
2. Using a chisel and lightly hitting the hammer, knock off the protective cap of the hub nut.

1. Using the “27” socket, unscrew the hub nut and remove the washer and outer bearing.

On the right side of the wheel, the nut is unscrewed clockwise. On the nut, in order to distinguish the side, there are distinctive marks in the form of convex dots near the edges.

As a rule, the VAZ 2106 hub is replaced when it is already quite worn out. In the case when replacing the hub bearings does not eliminate the characteristic knocking sound in the wheel, this is most likely due to long-term operation, which means the time factor played a role and the bearing seats became larger in diameter than the race of the new bearing.

Let's consider the correct sequence of actions for replacing the hub of a classic vase.

1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel. After the wheel is removed, you need to unscrew the guide pins. To do this, screw the two wheel bolts into place and fix the barb between them in such a way as to prevent the hub from turning. Having fixed the hub, unscrew the pins and remove the wheel bolts.
2. Remove the decorative cap that hides the hub nut, then remove the spacer ring and the brake drum itself.
3. The hub nut is locked on several sides or on one. Unlock the nut, unscrew it and remove it (the threads of the nut are in the opposite direction, so you need to unscrew it clockwise). By moving your hands towards you, we pull the hub from the conical axis on which it sits.

At this point, work on removing the VAZ 2106 hub is completed. Prepare a new hub. Carefully inspect the seating surface; there may be factory marks left in the metal; if there are any, they must be removed using a regular file. Install new wheel bearings. During the installation process, do not forget to generously lubricate all necessary places with lithol (see Replacing the front wheel bearings of a VAZ 2106).

To lubricate all parts, it is best to use LITOL-24. Install all parts in the reverse order of removal. Don't forget to lock the nut. After installing all the parts in place, including the wheel, you need to correctly adjust the bearing clearance (see Adjusting the hub bearings of the VAZ 2106), otherwise the wheel will rotate slowly and this will lead to severe overheating of the hub, which means a high consumption of lubricant and a decrease in performance bearing life.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of a VAZ2106 with your own hands

Replacing the wheel bearing VAZ 2106-classic No. 51.

Replacing the front wheel bearings of a VAZ 2107

Replacing the hub on a VAZ 2107

How to adjust the wheel bearings of a VAZ classic.

If poorly selected, it can cause increased consumption by the motor. And there is no heating for the rear passengers and replacing the VAZ 2106 front wheel bearing, the flow of air is painful and noise, well, in general, all the shortcomings are not on the Internet. Next, unscrew the 2 nuts securing the standard handle, probably every driver has encountered this and will probably collide again without moving. During the inspection of the car, a healthy self-tapping screw was discovered on the lift in the front right wheel, for which many thanks to the guys. The distance from the ball surface to the pin should be a maximum of 11.8 millimeters. Here, a power cord is connected to the third contact of the terminal block, so the driver must refuse the services of his car, but he will feel inconvenience in driving the car.

Wheel bearings SS20 for VAZ cars

Wheel bearings are subject to extreme loads, especially on Russian roads. To ensure rotation of the car wheel without play, with minimal noise and friction, it is necessary to carefully select wheel bearings. SS20 hub bearings have passed 100% quality control and guarantee car owners confidence in road safety.

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Applicability

• VAZ 2101-2107
• VAZ 2108-2110
• LADA Kalina, Kalina II
• LADA Granta
• LADA Priora
• VAZ 2121, 2131
• VAZ 2123 (Chevrolet Niva)
• Datsun on-Do/mi-DO

Advantages of SS20 hub bearings

• high service life and reliability of the bearing;
• quiet operation;
• long service life;
• ensure easy and silent rotation of the wheels;
• high-quality high-temperature lubricant;
• roller bearings are equipped with lubricant, sealed ball bearings are lubricated during assembly and do not require maintenance;
• low level of mechanical losses in the bearing due to low surface roughness and high dimensional accuracy;
• comprehensive protection against counterfeiting;
• complete installation kit.

Guarantee

• Description
• Buy

The wheel bearing is one of the most heavily loaded suspension elements. Wheel bearings allow wheels to rotate and the vehicle to move as a whole. In addition to the perception of loads directly from the wheel rolling on the road, shock and thermal loads are added. Through the hub bearing, all forces arising in the contact patch between the wheel and the road are transmitted to the suspension.

That is, of the suspension and the car depends on the correct choice of front and rear wheel bearings . The main problem when replacing wheel bearings is the large number of low-quality fakes on the market that last no more than 2-3 thousand km, as well as violation of installation technology and incorrect adjustment of clearances.

Malfunctions of wheel bearings manifest themselves in the form of hum, knocking and play when the car is moving, clicks when starting and stopping. As raceways, rolling elements and cages wear, rolling resistance increases and this is accompanied by increased noise and heating of the bearings.

You can determine the malfunction of the wheel bearings yourself. To do this you need:

1. Check ease of rotation. Spin the suspended wheel with a sharp jerk and evaluate the noise level emitted by the bearing during rotation. The wheel run-out time is also estimated.
2. Determine the presence of play in the hub bearing. On a suspended wheel, applying a load with your hands in the vertical and horizontal planes, check for swing (play) in the bearing. By applying force along the axis of rotation of the wheel, you can estimate the axial clearance.

SS20 wheel bearings will help you avoid problems with low-quality spare parts. The reliability and durability of SS20 bearings is achieved through:

• accuracy of geometric dimensions in the design and production of a product;
• use of high quality steel;
• achieving the required level of surface roughness;
• use of high-tech equipment.

The manufacturing precision of wheel bearings, surface roughness and rolling elements are the key aspects that influence the level of mechanical losses in the bearing and, ultimately, determine the noise class.

During production, the service life of the hub bearings is checked selectively from the batch before failure on a stand that simulates real loads on the bearing. As part of a comprehensive quality assessment, bearing runout is checked with an assessment of the reduction in speed at two stages from 100% to 70%, and the drop in speed from the initial stage to a complete stop. At the same time, the vibroacoustic parameters of the freewheel bearing are checked.

A whole range of serious checks at all stages of the production process allows us to guarantee the buyer the high quality and reliability of SS20 wheel bearings.

SS20 hub bearings have the SS20 branding and additional protection against counterfeiting, which will provide car owners with confidence and safety on the road, and protect them from possible financial and time losses when using counterfeits.

Front wheel bearings for VAZ 2101-07 and 2121, 2123 are supplied as part of repair kits. The SS20 front hub repair kit contains all the washers, oil seals, rings, nuts, bearings and special high-temperature complex lithium grease for bearings required for replacement.

The high quality of the lubricant ensures a service life of up to 300,000 km in the wheel bearing assembly. The amount of grease is calculated to ensure reliable lubrication of the bearings throughout their entire service life. The operating temperature range of the lubricant is from –40°С to +180°С.

We draw your attention to the process of adjusting the clearance in the hub bearings. The durability of the unit largely depends on the correctness and quality of this operation, therefore, we offer you step-by-step instructions (included in the delivery kit) that will allow you to adjust the clearance in the wheel bearing unit, both during initial installation and during further scheduled maintenance.

Repair kits for front and rear hubs of front-wheel drive VAZ cars

In the hub units of front-wheel drive VAZ cars, double-row ball bearings are used. During assembly, the required amount of lubricant is placed in the bearing. The internal space of the bearing is reliably sealed with oil seals, which prevents contamination from getting inside. This ensures normal lubrication of the raceways, balls and cages throughout their service life. Wheel bearings SS20 for front-wheel drive VAZ cars are maintenance-free and do not require adjustment or lubrication during operation. This approach significantly reduces the labor intensity of vehicle maintenance and at the same time ensures high reliability.

The reliability of the bearing directly depends on the accuracy of manufacturing and compliance with all standards during the production of the bearing. Therefore, for SS20 double-row ball bearings we carry out a number of additional checks, for example, monitoring the amount of axial clearance and radial “runout” in the mounted state.

The procedure is no more complicated than others associated with repairing a VAZ 2107 car. After hanging it on a jack and removing the wheel, the replacement is performed directly. First, remove the caliper by unscrewing its mounting bolts. It is not necessary to remove the brake hose; it is enough to carefully hang the caliper so that it does not interfere with operation.

Next, you need to use a flat-head screwdriver to pry up the cap covering the nut and remove it. By unscrewing the hub nut and removing the washer and separator, you can remove the hub with the brake disc. Then everything is simple:

• We take out the oil seal;
• Remove the separator;
• We take out the ring separating the inner and outer bearing;
• Using an extension of the required size and a regular hammer, knock out both clips.

Installing new bearings and assembling the hub occurs in the reverse order. Before assembly, it is necessary to remove old grease by thoroughly washing all parts.

• We press in the races of new bearings;
• Lubricate and install the internal separator;
• Insert the ring;
• Press in the oil seal.

All that remains is to put the hub in place and screw on the caliper. After inserting the pre-lubricated outer bearing cage and thrust ring into place, tighten the hub nut until it stops. By gradually loosening the nut, we achieve free rotation of the wheel with complete absence of play. Thus, the bearing operates in normal mode, which means it is in this position that the nut needs to be locked.

We remove the used lubricant from the protective cap and apply new one, after which we put it on the hub. We put the wheel in place and screw it on, and remove the car from the jack. The job is done, the fault has been successfully fixed, the replacement has been completed. After a short run, it is recommended to check the hub for play and, if necessary, adjust it.

Replacing the front wheel bearing

Rotation of car wheels would be difficult without the use of rolling bearings. Their presence in the design of car hubs ensures easy and silent rotation of the wheel when driving.

But a bearing is a rather complex element in design; when operating a car, it experiences heavy loads, which leads to wear and failure.

It is especially important to monitor the condition of the front wheel bearings. Severe wear will lead to significant play, which will affect the behavior of the wheel on the road. The wheel will no longer move smoothly on the road, vibrations will appear, which will immediately affect the tire - it will begin to wear out intensively.

In this case, the vibration of the wheel will also affect the steering; the steering mechanism will experience constant shock loads due to vibration, and some of these vibrations will be transmitted to the steering wheel.

Additionally, noise from the wheel on which the bearing is worn will increase.

Symptoms of a problem

The wheel bearing must always be in good condition. If the part becomes unusable, this can lead to an accident, since the malfunction is accompanied by large wheel play. As a result, the disc may be sheared off the wheel bolts. If such a situation occurs at high speed, a serious accident cannot be avoided. This indicates that the hub bearing needs periodic inspection, and if play is detected, it needs to be adjusted or replaced.

The main manifestations of a part malfunction are:

1. Dry crunch. When a bearing breaks, a metallic crunching sound occurs while driving. It appears as a result of uneven rolling of the rollers due to damage to the separator. It is difficult to confuse this sound with any other.
2. Vibration. If the element in question has severe wear, vibration appears, which is transmitted to both the body and the steering wheel. It indicates severe wear of the bearing cage, which can lead to seizure.
3. The car pulls to the side. The problem is somewhat reminiscent of the case with incorrect wheel alignment adjustment, since the faulty element does not work correctly due to its parts being wedged.

Definition of failure

To determine the condition of the wheel bearing, you need to perform a few simple steps:

1. Hang the front wheel on the desired side using a jack, not forgetting to put the car on the handbrake and install stops under the rear wheels.
2. Place a support under the lower suspension arm and remove the car from the jack.
3. Take the wheel with both hands (top and bottom) and perform movements from yourself to yourself, and no play or knocking should be felt.
4. Spin the wheel. If the bearing has become unusable, a grinding noise, hum or other extraneous noise may appear.

Checking status

Checking the condition of the front wheel bearing is not that difficult. You just need to jack up the front wheel, where the bearing is supposed to be worn out. If the car is front-wheel drive, you need to set the gearbox to neutral, put chocks under the rear wheels and put the car on the handbrake. Rear-wheel drive cars use both a gearbox (1st gear is installed) and a handbrake.

You need to grab the jacked wheel with your hands at the top and bottom, and check for play with rocking movements. In a bearing in normal condition there should not be any play, not even the slightest.

Additionally, you need to spin the wheel around the axle. The wheel should rotate easily; the presence of any jamming, as well as a slight crunch or noise, will indicate that the front wheel bearing needs to be replaced.

Video: Diagnostics of the VAZ front wheel bearing.

If you have the appropriate equipment, you can make a replacement in a garage, but you must first purchase a new bearing, as well as related spare parts (hub nut, oil seal, retaining rings).

As for the bearings themselves, they differ on different cars. For example, the VAZ-2106 has two tapered roller bearings at the front, but the Chevrolet Aveo has a double-row angular contact ball bearing.

Due to the differences in these elements used, work to replace them is carried out slightly differently. Therefore, let’s look at how to replace the front wheel bearing on the above models.

Where is the crankshaft bearing installed and what is it used for?

The bearing installed in the crankshaft flange is not part of the engine, but of the transmission. The main purpose of this assembly is to center and support the transmission input shaft - it serves as a front rotating support. Anyone who has ever installed a gearbox on a car is familiar with the crankshaft bearing - it is so difficult to get into its inner race with the shank of the input shaft. As for the high service life of the part, it can be explained simply. The fact is that the rolling unit only works when the clutch is depressed. The rest of the time, the crankshaft and gearbox input shaft rotate at the same frequency. Despite the low load, it is recommended to replenish the lubricant supply in the bearing when replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal, repairing the clutch, etc. This way you will delay the need for repairs for a long time.

Replacing a VAZ-2106 wheel bearing

So, on the VAZ-2106 there was an assumption that this element of the hub was worn out. A special feature of the tapered bearings used is the possibility of tightening them. Therefore, if a play is detected, you should not immediately replace it; first, you can try tightening it.

To do this, you need to jack up the car, remove the wheel and, using a jack and a hammer, knock off the protective cap of the hub. Then you will need to straighten the folding of the collar of the hub nut and use a 27mm head to tear it out of place.

Next, the nut must be tightened as much as possible, and then unscrewed a quarter turn. To check, you will need to put the wheel back on the hub and tighten at least two of its mounting nuts. All that remains is to check the adjustment - rotate the wheel (it should rotate easily), and the play should disappear. If the adjustment brings results, then the collar of the nut is rolled again and the protective cap is put in place.

If, during the initial check of the condition, a crunching sound is heard, then the adjustment will no longer help, since the element has begun to deteriorate, so only replacement will be required.

Next, let's see how this element is replaced on a VAZ-2106. To complete the work you will need:

1. socket wrenches or heads with collars at “7”, “12”, “17” and “27”;
2. wheel wrench;
3. pliers;
4. powerful flat screwdriver;
5. hammer;
6. soft metal attachment;
7. bench vice.

Replacing the front wheel bearing of a Chevrolet Aveo

On a Chevrolet Aveo, replacement is carried out using the following equipment:

• wheel wrench;
• socket wrenches and heads with collars on “17” and “30”;
• screwdrivers (phillips, flat);
• ball joint remover;
• puller for pressing out the hub;
• special pliers for removing retaining rings;
• vice;
• hammer;
• wooden and metal attachments.

The beginning of work is almost identical to the VAZ-2106 - unscrew the wheel mounting bolts and loosen the hub nut, having first flared its collar. Next, jack up the wheel, remove it, and also remove the caliper from the brake disc.

The brake disc is removed from the hub while it is still installed on the car. To do this, you need to unscrew the guide bolts with a screwdriver and carefully knock the disk off the hub.

Then you need to unscrew the tie rod nut and use a puller to press it out of the steering knuckle. You will also need to unscrew the two mounting bolts of the lower arm support to the steering knuckle, and the mounting bolts of the shock absorber strut. If your car has an ABS system, you will need to disconnect the power connectors for this system before removing the steering knuckle.

Next, you need to pull the steering knuckle together with the hub from the CV joint shaft.

To get to the bearing, you will first need to use a puller to press the hub off the steering knuckle. Then, using special pliers, remove the retaining rings.

After this, it will be possible to press out the worn element itself with a puller. Before planting a new element, you should make sure that its seat does not take the shape of an oval. To do this, you need to inspect the old bearing.

The new bearing can be pressed in using a vice, using the old one as a guide.

Then you will need to install the retaining rings in place, generously lubricate the bearing surfaces with grease and install the steering knuckle in place, performing all the work in the reverse order. After assembly work, be sure to check the tightness of all bolts.

Repair of VAZ 2101, 2106, 2107 hub

Maintenance-free front hubs on VAZ 2107 (bushing drawing)

This time we will talk about maintenance-free front hub bearings. Having changed 3 bearings over the winter (sometimes they didn’t last, sometimes they overtightened them, sometimes they fell apart during maintenance), I got tired of all this, surfing the Internet and DRIVE came across articles about maintenance-free bearings on the front. There are several options: 1. Buy a ready-made kit. There are people who sharpen hubs and axles for them. 2. hub with axle from Izh od (also suitable) - I couldn’t find it 3. Rear hub from 08 VAZ + bearing also rear and + adapter sleeve - that’s what you need and in terms of cost.

hub with bearing

Since I didn't look carefully at the bearings? and bought an extra stopper, but they were in the box. Next, we will need classic wheel nuts, 08 ones will not fit, and the ring that presses the bearing is also classic.

all assembled + bushings

made the bushings according to the drawings

3,1

The first time I did it according to the first one, I’ll say right away it was in vain, the size 22 was not the topic and during installation the bushing swelled while I was inserting it. but more on that later.

here is my modified drawing

So we collect all this and happily go to the garage (well, that’s how it was for me), we begin to take everything apart

Having unscrewed the nut and the caliper, I had the first problem: I bent the brake disc (I don’t know how, but I did, I realized this when I was putting everything back together after the second problem), so I knocked over the old hub with the dead bearings, we start assembling it and now it’s not a problem, there’s an error in size, no Well, it’s okay and you can knock it out, and in the end I put everything back in the car in the garage and we’re waiting for it to be re-sharpened...

Wheel bearing: 4 simple ways to check before it’s too late - Advice from experts

Many people know that there are certain bearings in the wheel area called wheel bearings, and from time to time they wear out. But this is where the ideas about the subject end. No problem! Today we’ll talk in detail about what it is and, most importantly, how to determine the need for replacement. And first, a little theory.

Without abstruse definitions, a wheel bearing is a bearing on which the wheel rotates. Of course, we all removed the wheels (or at least were present at this sacrament) and saw that there were no bearings on the wheel itself, and they were also not visible on the one from which they were removed. Right. Because this bearing stands between the fixed axis of rotation and what the wheel is screwed to . The part that acts as a fixed axis is called a fist

or
trunnion
.

A small clarification: the concept of “axis” in this case is used precisely as the geometric axis of rotation, and not as the shape of the part. For example, in the steering knuckles of a front-wheel drive car, this axis is hollow, and the drive shaft passes inside it. See pictures below.

In turn, the part to which the wheel rim is directly attached is called the hub.

. Thus, if you strain your head a little and imagine everything written above, then the following picture emerges: a bearing is put on the fixed axle (or inserted into it, if there is a drive), and a hub is put on the bearing, to which the wheel is screwed. This is such a simple nesting doll. Now about malfunctions and self-diagnosis.

Since today’s hero is not highly complex, the symptoms of the malfunction will be quite clear.

Symptom No. 1

Noises . Those who have ever heard the noise/hum of dry or worn bearings will understand what we are talking about. Those who don’t know shouldn’t despair either. If you have doubts about the serviceability of any hub, simply hang up two wheels of the same axle, put the box in neutral and spin both. I’m sure you can spot a noisy hub right away. The main thing is not to confuse the noise of the bearing with the friction of the pads on the brake disc, so as not to change all four in a fright.

Symptom No. 2

Once you have hung the axle with the suspected wheel, shake it in all directions. A heavily worn bearing will give a play that can be clearly detected by hand . Again, do not confuse the bearing play with the play of the steering tips (if they are also tired). If you lack experience, it is better to call a friend: one will rock the wheel in all directions, the other will look at it from the inside. I’m sure the two of you can easily determine whether the wheel is loose relative to the axle (then it’s a hub wheel), or whether the entire axle assembly is loose relative to the steering rod - then you need to change the tips.

Symptom No. 3

Noticeable heating. Very often the wheel bearing begins to jam and, as a result, heats up. After the trip, touch the wheel (not the brake!) disc with your hand and compare the temperature on the wheel in doubt with the second wheel of this axle. If the hub jams, the temperature will be noticeably higher. And you definitely won’t need thermometers to determine the difference. But again, we take a situation where we are confident in the serviceability of the brake mechanisms: a soured brake caliper can also cause overheating.

Symptom No. 4

And finally, sideways movement when moving . If the hub is already moving into a better world and jams heavily when rotating, this will affect the straightness of movement. The car will drag towards the wheel with a faulty bearing. By the way, as in option “3”, this is always associated with parallel heating of the part and can also be caused by jamming of the caliper, or the handbrake mechanism, if we are talking about the rear wheels. Therefore, the last two points are relevant only with a known-good brake system.

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