Replacing the VAZ 2109 thermostat from Grants, the stove is hot
Published January 14, 2017
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how does your modification work? does not jam if the stove valve is closed during the first start-up and warm-up (respectively). I don’t understand anyway.
please tell me the tee is from what car?
Strange. I have everything stock. It's so hot that the plastic of the blowers has melted. 0_0
the author is a moron on earth, so it should be, she shouldn’t be heated up by the earth, that is, 87-90 degrees, you motherfucker.
I have an 8ka 85, so after 10 km it’s impossible to sit in the car.
I don’t understand a damn thing, coolant should go straight from the lower pipe directly to the pump, but where to the radiator? And this immediately turns out to be a big circle.
I did it on my 21083 https://www.drive2.ru/r/lada/992734/ a long time ago, only advantages, I threw out the faucet altogether, installed an electric faucet from the Gazelle Business under the hood and a button in the cabin, it heats up instantly, the stove definitely fries, in the summer, when the tap is switched to bypass, the stove is generally cold, etc.
what's the tee from?
But how does the coolant flow in a large circle? Does it go through the heater radiator and through the upper pipe?
Is it worth it with a 10 thermos 6 holes? Is it worth installing a Grant one? +is there?
The author didn’t say a word about the stove tap! With such a system it should ALWAYS be open!
I like the author for his ingenuity. The air intake flap from outside the radiator does not close tightly. Glue it with foam rubber and assemble the stove body with sealant, in general you will be driving in shorts in winter!
Why is your voltmeter scaled like that? I also have a 9, also from 1988, but the needle is almost always on red, the voltage is somewhere around 13W
Thanks to the author. I'm pleased with the result. The car became noticeably warmer.
Well, I don’t know the author, the low panel (I own one myself) is actually hot in itself, I have a stock 09 98, the cooling system is also stock, so the car hasn’t warmed up to working temperature, but it’s already warm in the car, and then it’s Tashkent, Your problem most likely was something else, perhaps the stove radiator is clogged, or the interior is quite drafty, but as an option you can do it the way you did.
Good evening author, I have a question: does the thermostat from Granta go into place without any problems? There are no cracks or gaps between the engine and the thermostat. Can you still fit on heels without problems?
where do you get the throttle heating?
Hi all. Why does hot air not flow into the cabin when the tap is open (always) in the summer? Or is there a message that it needs to be closed in the summer, but in the winter it is always open? I don’t understand something. Is it also possible to get the entire list of required spare parts for the conversion? Which pipe, which tee? Etc.
Today I changed the thermostat - as shown in the video, so far I’m happy. I couldn’t find the tee, I soldered it myself from plastic tubes. Thank you very much to the author for the tuning.
At what temperature does it open? I heard that when installing a Grant thermostat, the engine will underheat, supposedly the thermoelement on this thermostat needs to be changed to 92 degrees.
It would be cooler if, after the modification, you started it when it was cold and took off how much it heats up to the maximum temperature
Tell me, will this fit on the 21099 injector?
But what about in the summer when the heater tap is closed? The thermostat is also closed while it warms up.
that means so, and the author has a problem with the heating system, the heat on my low panel on the standard thermostat is unbearable. It's most likely a leak in the heater when cold air is sucked in past the damper or the radiator heater is without swirlers inside. Grant's thermostat is good, but we must keep in mind that when we close the tap in the summer, we immediately overheat the engine, and driving in the heat with a heated radiator is brutal. Modern cars do not have a heater tap and the air flow is regulated by dampers; on new vases everything works very well with this thermostat. This won’t work in Samara; in summer the heater radiator should be cold
So what will happen in the summer? If you close the stove in the cabin? Not a word about that. Most likely there will be a bomb in the tank)))))))) or am I wrong? Author, write about this in more detail! Or will the stock thermal be returned in the summer?
People, tell me why the engine on 9 takes so long to warm up? I changed the thermostats, installed my own ones, and a 10-point one. The lower pipe is always cold before the thermostat opens, and the engine doesn’t heat up at all. It's a 5 km drive to work. I warm it up in the garage for a couple of minutes, then drive along a flat road for 5 km. The engine barely heats up to 50. What could be the matter?? In the summer it's the same bullshit. Carlson almost never turns on.
What happens if you turn off the stove tap?
Good afternoon, I have a question for you, I want to change the thermostat from Granti to nine if I put a tee at the output of the thermostat and connect the heater and gas reducer and go into the saxophone. If I close the stove tap, will the gearbox allow a large volume of liquid to pass through itself and nothing bad will happen to it?
Everything is great for winter, but what about in summer with such a thermos?
I have a question. Since the small circle is a heater radiator, then all the coolant flows through it. Granta has a different radiator design. The question is: will the heater radiator cope with all the liquid pressure at maximum engine speed, if we say spin it up to 6000 rpm?
It’s easier to buy a thermostat with a narrowed channel and that’s it. cheaper and more effective.
Where is the tee from, I can’t find it
Maxim did everything according to your instructions and what did I get from it? (1) I freed up a lot of space under the distributor (which I am very pleased with). (2) My car never warmed up (previously, after driving 12 kilometers, warm air just started blowing), now It’s just Tashkent, even quite warm air blew from the side vents. (3) I turned off the heater tap because The faucet in 21099 is essentially not needed at all (extra hemorrhoids are like a goat's button accordion). (4) Instead of a plug where there should be a d.t. I installed a Grant one with 2 wires (one was connected to the wire from the original sensor and the second was immediately connected to ground to the top pin from the thermostat. (5) the stove after starting warms up to 92 degrees, in a Tashkent car and only then does the thermostat open, even with with the heater fan turned on, the temperature does not drop much. (6) While I was disconnecting the faucet cable, quite very hot air was blowing across my face. So there are only advantages. I just came up with an idea, if you put a tee in the hose that goes from the thermal to the heater, and connect it to this tee preheat the throttle, and turn off the throttle output from the return line (but that doesn’t really bother me).
FakeHeader
Comments 11
Why is everyone so afraid to leave the stove open? Is it possible to regulate the temperature using a damper? The new type stove completely covers the radiator and there are no problems)
It’s just that an open stove, even if the air through it is blocked, still works like a battery, heating up everything and everyone around it, and in the heat of 30 degrees, having such a battery in the cabin is clearly not comfortable... ps I know that on many other cars the radiator is also in In the cabin there is no provision for a heater tap at all, but nevertheless, once every 9 days it is provided - I think it would be stupid not to use it.
By the way, if anyone is interested, I have separated the control of the faucet and the damper into different levers; if anyone is interested, look in my bulletin board.
I drove around for 2 summers with the faucet open, stupidly didn’t know that it was open, and when I disassembled the panel, I saw a dangling cable and therefore didn’t even bother connecting it) This summer at +30 I even turned on the fan so that it wouldn’t be so hot and there would be no discomfort didn't notice. It’s not even hot for your foot when you step on the gas, and this despite the fact that I have a high panel and the radiator is not covered with any plastic) By the way, on the Kalina the radiator is even closer to the driver’s foot, but no one complains about the heat) So I want to make an adapter, instead faucet and forget about it forever)
Well, there is one more advantage of a closed radiator - the engine warms up a little faster))
Well, this is the only thing that can be considered a plus, but in the summer it heats up quickly, and in the winter it is always open. If only when warming up in winter, turn it off, but I think hardly anyone does that)
No, not only that, I forgot to add one but a VERY important plus! In winter, when you drive a car all day long or on the highway, for example, it is very difficult to regulate with one damper - the heater of the nines has such a feature, with the damper you can only make it either warm or cold, and the intermediate option is not possible with the damper. At the same time, you can’t adjust the flap on your legs at all; you just have to open it slightly and almost outboard cold air already flies onto the windshield in winter, while hot air continues to scald your legs. And here the heater tap comes to the rescue, thanks to it you can reduce the heat in all nozzles at the same time, and you can at least somehow adjust it from slightly reduced to almost barely warm, that is, in some way you can somehow adjust the acceptable temperature and not like using a damper - either too hot or too cold
